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  #11  
Old 09-18-2013, 09:04 PM
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farnhamstj farnhamstj is offline
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Found my problem. poor connection from stator to wire harness at yellow wire. You still have the factory stator or a Trail-tech. The Trail-tech is a good improvement in light output.

By "not very bright", worse or better than ktm factory? 'cause factory is pretty bad.
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98 uzj100. Factory rear-ARB front locked 4.88's. ARB Bull, Warn 9000, Irbis rear bumper, Slee sliders and belly pan. OME t-bars w/863 rears, HID, XM
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  #12  
Old 09-21-2013, 08:38 PM
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So this is an iPhone pic, but yeah it's pretty bad at 34W equivalent. It looks like it might be pointing down a bit as my fender shadow is pretty large.

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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions)
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #13  
Old 09-22-2013, 11:41 PM
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farnhamstj farnhamstj is offline
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Matt, that looks dangerous.
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98 uzj100. Factory rear-ARB front locked 4.88's. ARB Bull, Warn 9000, Irbis rear bumper, Slee sliders and belly pan. OME t-bars w/863 rears, HID, XM
KD0GWO
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  #14  
Old 09-23-2013, 06:29 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Yeah, luckily I don't ride at night so I have time to figure out a better solution
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Matt Miller
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions)
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #15  
Old 09-23-2013, 04:51 PM
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farnhamstj farnhamstj is offline
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Which headlight do you have? the diamond thing or the square? Get a trailtech rewound stator or research how to rewind yours, and get a square headlight.
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98 uzj100. Factory rear-ARB front locked 4.88's. ARB Bull, Warn 9000, Irbis rear bumper, Slee sliders and belly pan. OME t-bars w/863 rears, HID, XM
KD0GWO
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  #16  
Old 09-23-2013, 08:24 PM
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The diamond one, which I like the looks of and am trying to keep
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Matt Miller
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions)
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #17  
Old 09-24-2013, 09:27 AM
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wow yeah, that's dim.

I whacked my factory light on a tree and it forced the trail tech upgrade. It's not the greatest but does seem to work. I tend to be heading home in the dark a lot.
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  #18  
Old 01-09-2015, 01:56 PM
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So bumping this thread.

I found this thingy recommended on ktmtalk.com:
http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.co...ulb-_p_83.html

Turns out for my bike, though, I will also need the rectifier dealy, so total cost will be about $85. I need the rectifier because bikes that were not originally street legal (like mine) have AC power to the headlight, but bikes that were originally street legal had DC power to the headlight. I think I got that right.

My rear LED lights run on AC power because they have diodes built into them.

I talked with the guy (Darrell I think) from Cyclops and he was explaining to me why the bulb I got was not a good option - and it was an option they themselves had looked at. I guess for an LED that is putting out the lumens a headlight requires, it almost certainly needs some sort of cooling, which my amazon bulb does not. There is also a note on the amazon site which I don't think was there before saying it does not work for KTMs because of the "overload current" burning out the diode.

So before I do any of that, I have another issue I have to figure out. My battery doesn't stay charged and doesn't appear to be charged by the stator/rectifier. So I need to figure out if one or both of those is bad or if it's just that my battery is 7 years old now. I think I took it to Fay Myers and had them test it and it came out ok. I think. I can't remember now.

But the other problem is that my rear lights don't work any more either, so not sure if that is related or not. Darrell seemed to think that it might be a separate issue.

Problem with all of this is that I haven't found good FSM tests like I'm used to in the Toyota manuals for testing equipment on my motorcycle. So have to figure this out piece by piece.
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Matt Miller
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions)
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2015, 02:56 PM
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At minimum I would replace a 7 yr old battery. I had similar charging issues to you when I first got my bike (which was 6 or 7 years old at the time), and after swapping in a new battery my e-starter has been problem free.
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1976 FJ40 - green and mostly stock
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2015, 03:09 PM
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And my answer to the front headlight issue: don't ride at night....
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