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  #11  
Old 05-21-2012, 01:37 PM
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What ^ they ^ say

Valvoline Palladium (Napa) for the birfs, Mobil 1 red for the bearings (O'Reilly's)

As I recall I had to ask for the Palladium as Napa had it in back. I don't recall exact amounts but maybe 10 tubes for the birfs and a couple of the small tubs for the bearings.

For races and seals I really like my cheap HF kit --> LINK - you can do the job without it but with it makes it just that much easier.

I borrowed the SST for the rear axle which was slick. I bought an impact driver from HF but ended up not needing it as the screws weren't tight at all
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2012, 10:24 PM
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I actually have the impact driver for the rear screws...I think I'll give the large similar size socket with an extension a whirl for the front seal.

Another question...my bearings seem to be in decent condition, but I do have all new bearings for both the knuckle and hub. Should I pound out the races and go all new? If I change the bearings and races on the knuckle, is it gonna mess with my preload requiring change in shims?
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2012, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Paul I've got the install tool for the inner seal you can borrow, also a 54mm but looks like you're well past that one! The SST for the back is a nice to have but not required, you can use screwdrivers to twist it, or just tap on it- only must have tool IMO is the impact screwdriver for getting those phillips screws loose the first time. Let me know.
Thanks to all for the advice...this is the biggest job I've attempted AT...that's after Tillman! It's a lot when you add in the diff work.

Tim, I may take you up on the installer and socket after you get back as my 54mm is the el cheapo type that you turn with a screwdriver! It might help to have a real one to snug it up before coming off it for preload?

P
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2012, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
I'm the same as everyone else. All grease sourced from Napa - I used the Valvoline Palladium with Moly for the birf/knuckle, and then regular red wheel bearing grease for the hub bearings. They didn't have tubs of the Palladium at my location, so I just bought like 6 or 8 tubes, and then returned what I didn't use.
X3 on the above specific combo.

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  #15  
Old 05-22-2012, 12:24 PM
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I just used the Valvoline moly on my bearings too.

You might consider getting new rotors rather than having them turned. I think it was Christo who said given the amount of heat the 80's generate on the fronts your better off just replacing them. Its a lot of work to tear back into it to do the brakes again.
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  #16  
Old 05-22-2012, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LARGEONE View Post
Another question...my bearings seem to be in decent condition, but I do have all new bearings for both the knuckle and hub. Should I pound out the races and go all new? If I change the bearings and races on the knuckle, is it gonna mess with my preload requiring change in shims?
Do you know how many miles are on the bearings/races in there? If it were me and I had new parts in hand, I'd put in the new stuff and put the old stuff in my spares bin...Actually this is exactly what I did

The new stuff won't mess up the preload, just keep the shims in the correct locations. Make sure you fully seat the races and fully seat the bearings when you put it all back together...

Pay close attention to the knuckle studs - if you didn't get the new type of studs, I suggest you do so and red locktite them in while you have stuff apart. The new style of studs are nice and I haven't had any issues with look knuckle studs

On the bearing preload...You can follow the FSM procedure or follow some of the suggestions on MUD. Buy a couple extra of the lock washers because you'll want to check things after driving for a bit...New stuff tends to loosen up. I can't remember now what some of the "experts" on MUD recommend but it is something like 20 ft-lbs on the hub preload and call it good with apparently no ill-affects and no worries about loosening up down the road.
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'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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  #17  
Old 05-22-2012, 06:46 PM
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I also used the Longfield lifetime wiper seals by the way. Install was easy and I like how they have been holding up over the last year. My neighbor did the same last year too.
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2012, 10:15 PM
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My next birf repack I will do new inner axleshafts and will go back to regular Toyota inner axle seals due to the significant grooves worn by the "heavy duty" seals.
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  #19  
Old 06-11-2012, 09:44 PM
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Update...the beast is back on the road!

ARBs are in with the new 4:88 gears. Lockers are not hooked up yet as that will be a project in itself! Still trying to figure out what to do about air.

Anyway, this project was enough...turns out my birfs were starting to show some cracking so I had them rebuilt (actually, I took them to Robbie who sent them somewhere). Definitely wasn't something I was planning on spending money on, but I was glad I caught it before blowing them up in the trail somewhere.

So, I ended up changing out all the bearings and races...new extended brake lines, rebuilt calipers front and rear, new rotors and 100 series pads up front, and the new gearing. I can't believe how much of the drive train slop/clunk is now gone. I guess more of it was in the diffs than I had presumed.

I'm running the 4:88s with 33s right now, so my speedo is way off. Any guesses as to how far off my speed is at 55 mph? I really think when my speedo says 55 that I'm actually going about 45! Either way, I haven't gone over 50 on my speedo since I'm still taking it easy on the gears.

How many miles should I go before I wheel this thing?!!!!
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Horribly Painted '95 FZJ80 Has Some - Still Needs More!
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  #20  
Old 06-11-2012, 11:36 PM
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What??? All my bearings are lubed by the 90wt oil leaking through...
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