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Old 06-16-2012, 05:45 PM
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Default Electronic Ignition Wiring

I have a 1978 fully electronic distributor ready to put into the F engine I am building for my 1971 FJ40. I have a coil/ignitor assemble that *I think* came out of an FJ60. I think they are supposed to be able to work together. I want to test them before I install them.

The coil/ignitor assembly has a two wire loom that obviously connects directly to the distributor for the magnetic pickup signal. It has two separate wires that are obviously power and ground. But those two wires look like the same white color, my manual doesn't say which is which, and my 60 is still at Hugh's shop in Grand Junction.

I figure if I apply wrong polarity there's a good chance I mess up my ignitor so I'm asking you guys which wire is which. The first two pictures are of the two wires in question for power and ground. Which is which?
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:46 PM
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The next picture is of the labels on the ignitor. Can someone verify that this is from a 60?
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:47 PM
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And finally, the assembly. I'm pretty sure this is off a 60, but I have so many darn parts floating around I can't be sure...
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:51 PM
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I'm not an expert but I just hooked mine up. It's a 2f ignition from a 60 & it looks identical to yours. I have not put power to it but the manual I was referencing stated that the larger plug goes to the ignition & the smaller to a tachometer. I'll be following this as well because I'm not 100% either.
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Old 06-16-2012, 08:01 PM
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Jeff, the bigger of the two gets 12 volts when the ignition is on.

The smaller one is for a tachometer signal, you won't use it - unless you want to put in a tach.

The bracket holding the coil and igniter are ground by the chassis. I mounted mine on the fender and to insure the ground was solid, ran a direct ground from one of the bolts that secures the coil bracket. I can see why the diagram would concern you because it shows ground coming off the igniter.

Your labels look the same as what I have on my rig - we could compare part numbers but I'm pretty certain you have the right coil/igniter assembly.
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Old 06-16-2012, 10:41 PM
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Thanks guys, I guess it isn't so *obvious* that those two loose wires are power and ground. So the one with the larger connector is +12V, and the smaller one is for the FJ60 tach eh? Making sure the bracket grounds sounds like one of those flaky faults waiting to happen, so when I install it in my 71 I will be sure to run a separate ground wire.

I plan on testing this setup for spark tomorrow before I install the distributor to the block.

By the way, (and yes I checked the manual and it doesn't have guidance), I know the kinda sorta way to slid the distributor in and get it within, say +/- 20 of where the timing is supposed to be before starting it up. But on a points type rig, you just tweak it to where the points just start to open right around that 7 mark.

Does anyone know any cool tricks for setting the static timing on a fully electronic jobber before you've started it up for the first time?
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
Thanks guys, I guess it isn't so *obvious* that those two loose wires are power and ground. So the one with the larger connector is +12V, and the smaller one is for the FJ60 tach eh? ...
Exactly

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
...Does anyone know any cool tricks for setting the static timing on a fully electronic jobber before you've started it up for the first time?
Conceptually it is very similar. Rotate the engine so that the pointer is on the line (7 degrees) on the compression stroke for the number 1 cylinder. Point the rotor to where it makes the connection to the #1 hole on the dizzy cap. The idea is to end up with the dizzy stabbed so that engine is at 7 degrees and spark plug number # 1 is getting spark. I use a sharpie to make a line on the dizzy body where the #1 is on the dizzy cap.

With the rotor lined up, make the adjustment for the gear as you stab the dizzy. Confirm it is fully seated and the rotor is pointing to spark plug hole #4. Engine will fire and run.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
Conceptually it is very similar. Rotate the engine so that the pointer is on the line (7 degrees) on the compression stroke for the number 1 cylinder.
Right now the engine is on the stand so there's no flywheel and no mark...

However it is precisely at TDC. I need to adjust the valves and prelube the oil galleries with the drill and screwdriver method before I install the distributor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
Point the rotor to where it makes the connection to the #1 hole on the dizzy cap.
I have always installed distributors with the cap off so I can see which way the rotor is pointing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
The idea is to end up with the dizzy stabbed so that engine is at 7 degrees and spark plug number # 1 is getting spark.
Of course. It's just that with electronic ignition you can't measure the points opening, which is why I asked. When I swapped out the distributor in my 60, I rotated the engine to TDC, then made careful note of the orientation of the old one when I slid it out.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:54 AM
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If you look down the distributor (with the cap off) and rotate the bottom, you will see where the fin makes contact with the pickup and triggers each cylinder. It is actually pretty easy (just as easy as points) to see the exact spot at which the it fires and line the rotor up with plug #1 on the cap. I probably didn't do a good job of explaining it, but when you see it - it will be "oh - that is simple".

Of course, I'm probably over complicating it. If you are at TDC on cylinder #1, stab the dizzy so the rotor ends up pointing at the #4 spark plug hole and it will fire up. Perhaps the timing will be a few degress retarted - but it can be adjusted once running.
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Old 06-27-2012, 01:46 PM
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Cool thread!
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