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Old 07-23-2012, 03:04 PM
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Default Service for Fridge/Freezers?

I have two Norcold fridges... one is probably 10 years old, the other closer to 20 years old I'm guessing. They both work ok, but IMO could run better. Anyone know of a refrigerator service/repair shop that has experience with portable fridge/freezers? Would like to take mine in for a check-up, tune-up type of thing.. has anyone done that?
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:40 PM
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Nope, but I think I need the same thing. Mine still cools, but it seems like it kills the battery far faster than it used to. On days like these, if I drive in to work (45-60 mins) by the time lunch time rolls around its just starting to go into protect mode to keep from draining the battery too far. My guess is the freon is low and it's cycling it more than it used to. Though, most of my experience is in Moab in the off season, so I think it barely runs at all at that ambient temp.
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:45 PM
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Are they solid state, or do they have compressors and refrigerant? If the later, any refrigeration tech should be able to take care of you, they all work the same and get fixed the same way. Pull a vacuum for 30 minutes, then recharge with the type and measure of refrigerant on the label plus a little dye so you can see if there is a leak.

I have all the gear and an R12 license, but I'm not exactly local to you...

IOTOH they are solid state, try blowing out the dust and see if that helps, if not you probably have one or more bad peltier junctions. Don't know how easy they are to replace on your fridge, but they are readily availibile on eBay as well as other more reliable sources.
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:58 PM
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Thanks, they're not the peltier kind instead they have compressors and refrigerant. I filled out the contact form on Engel-Usa's web site, hopefully they direct me to someone fairly close.. as all of their service center links come up as not found http://www.engel-usa.com/index.php?o...=93&Itemid=124
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:06 PM
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Ok, one thing on the older one. 20 years ago they were still using R12. Don't let anyone talk you into converting to R134 (or any Non-R12 mix) It won't work as well, and you'll never be able to convert it back. The conversion may be fine for a car, but if it's a portable battery powered system you don't want to make it less efficient.
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:41 PM
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Camping world works on mobiles, but they wouldnt answer my email regarding them working on my waeco. I found a company called forest glen rv, but the guy was an idiot plus he won't work on one not installed i. An rv. Good luck. I finally ordered the parts that i hope will fix mine from dometic
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:36 AM
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Our home fridge just had some trouble. Mostly due to dust build up. I'll suggest a good cleaning, maybe use an air compressor to blow out anywhere dust could build up. Not exactly what you were asking, but could be helpful.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:10 AM
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So the Norcold service centers, those who answer the phone at least, don't work on these. The closest to help I could get was trying to answer "what kind of an RV is it in," they don't get it.

I ended up calling Engel in Florida and spoke with the owner- nice fella. He said there's really no service to be done, the refrigerant is sealed in the compressor and can't be added, so beyond cleaning out dust, and moving to a lower humidity environment, there's not much else to do. He did give me a few tests though.

- Measure amperage draw while running. Should be 4-5 amps at startup, then settle down to 2-3. I've actually done this (60wag has a cool device for this).

- Starting at 85 ambient temperature, put a thermometer probe in the center of the empty fridge, and crank it up on AC power. You should see 40F in 20 minutes, and 32F in 35 minutes. If you're close to that, then your compressor is fine.

That leaves your DC power source- possible a bad cell in a battery? If so take it in for a load test, etc. Also try measuring your battery voltage at the connection to the fridge, while the fridge is cycling. This is easiest by pulling out the connector so you can touch the wires... there should be no more than .5 volts difference- so if you're 12.4 at the battery, it needs to be 11.9 or higher at the plug. If there is, then it could be a fuse issue where an old fuse just needs replaced, or it could be some other short in your wiring. That's the test I'm going to try next...
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:12 AM
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My issue is my big fridge is a lot less efficient now, compared to 6 months ago. I lived out of it for 3 days at Lake Powell before CM, and yes ran the battery down to 11.8 but on the last day. This past weekend, I was at 11.8 the morning after I got to camp. Both times starting the trip with a full fridge, and only cold stuff in it, actually run off of 110 for a day before even pulling out yeah I know all about that... something's different.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:26 AM
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FWIW, mine (edgestar) has been sucking the battery down bigtime here lately too. I was just chalking it up to the ridiculously hot temps in my rig during the day.it'll only run for about 2 days before being totally sucked down.,
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