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  #11  
Old 07-25-2012, 09:37 AM
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I would be fine with two days....I'm lucky to see 5 hrs.

Hey Marco, while working at SNC these past few weeks, I noticed a cool (pun) device. They have these cold plates for cooling satellites and such. Essentially, an aluminum block with milled groves on the back. They bend a copper tube (1/4"?) and lay it in the grooves, then bolt that to another aluminum plate. Much like what you built for pulling beer, but all copper and pre-made. There was a sticker on the side from the manufacturer, but I'm not allowed to take photos. I wrote it down somewhere....pretty sure it was this http://www.thermacore.com/products/v...ld-plates.aspx
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2012, 09:48 AM
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Yeah Barry, cold plates are used everywhere in aerospace. File it away in the "How to make a $50 cooler into a $100,000 beer fridge" category. What Marco did is much more cost effective since he's not circulating flight qualified coolant in his. We had a coolant leak in a cold plate fitting once that permanently ruined (for flight testing) a t-vac chamber and much worse required a total disassembling and cleaning a flight assembly, so they get pretty uptight about them and the fluids. Those you linked to would be more for testing sub-assemblies I'd guess.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:53 AM
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This thread made me smile. Just yesterday, I was complaining that my fridge can't hold up in this heat. The one change I am going to make first is to rewire 10gauge to the fridge. I have a mess of 12, 16, 10, and 14 going back there now. I started taking stuff inside at night and leaving the rear windows cracked a little as well.
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2012, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treerootCO View Post
This thread made me smile. Just yesterday, I was complaining that my fridge can't hold up in this heat. The one change I am going to make first is to rewire 10gauge to the fridge. I have a mess of 12, 16, 10, and 14 going back there now. I started taking stuff inside at night and leaving the rear windows cracked a little as well.
I think that right there helps a lot. My el Cheapo benefited immensely from heavy gauge wiring all the way to it.

That cooler Idea is neat, i'm gonna do some research.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:35 AM
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Best thing to do in this heat is a the Insulated fridge cover, direct power to the unit, and ventilation in the vehicle to get the hot air out.

We have replaced complete cooling units for the Engels before. Pretty easy to do. The test Paul has given you is pretty much what you want to do. So it either works or not.
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  #16  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:22 PM
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The test Paul has given you is pretty much what you want to do. So it either works or not.
Ok, 3 hour test complete. In that time, I saw a total drop of 82.3F. My goal was a 45 drop in 20 minutes, and a 53 drop in 35 minutes, and I reported 22.9 and 44 degree drops, respectively. So shy of the goal, but maybe some concessions can be made for the large fridge, and higher than normal starting temp? Hard to say... this experiment also uncovered a new mystery that hopefully someone can help me solve. First here's the test, and the resulting graphs.

I have one of those anatomically correct clocks in the garage for both time & temp. My new Twozone remote thermometer mounted and operational with new batteries. the remote sender I literally wedged between the fridge handle and my custom reflectix fridge transit bag. A probe runs from the sender to laying on the middle of the fridge floor. Also, the fridge was completely empty, and was never opened, throughout the test.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:28 PM
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I included the spreadsheet above, in anyone else wants to run the same experiment it would be interesting to compare. My initial conclusion is my compressor is working fine, so it must be something else. I realize that I don't have tons of clearance around the fridge, particularly in front- there's a small bag in the lower about half of the fridge, then the seat is leaned back almost against it, so airflow may be a bit restricted there. I also have stuff on the left of the fridge against the outside wall, but there's no venting on that side. On the right of the fridge, it's pretty open... and no, none of the reflectix material is covering any of the vents.

Here's my mystery: what the heck is the remote sender measuring? Also, it's in Celsius, and I can't find anywhere to flip it to Fahrenheit. I don't get it though- it's got the same slope as the inside fridge line, but a very consistent 25 difference?

(C+32)*9/5=F, right?
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  #18  
Old 07-26-2012, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
I included the spreadsheet above, in anyone else wants to run the same experiment it would be interesting to compare. My initial conclusion is my compressor is working fine, so it must be something else. I realize that I don't have tons of clearance around the fridge, particularly in front- there's a small bag in the lower about half of the fridge, then the seat is leaned back almost against it, so airflow may be a bit restricted there. I also have stuff on the left of the fridge against the outside wall, but there's no venting on that side. On the right of the fridge, it's pretty open... and no, none of the reflectix material is covering any of the vents.

Here's my mystery: what the heck is the remote sender measuring? Also, it's in Celsius, and I can't find anywhere to flip it to Fahrenheit. I don't get it though- it's got the same slope as the inside fridge line, but a very consistent 25 difference?

(C+32)*9/5=F, right?
Hey Tim,

I just bought a new Dometic that arrived yesterday. I'm headed for Montana for a week, but I'd be up to coming over when I return and running some comparison tests to see the difference. I've run 8 ga from the battery to a fuse block in the rear quarter panel and connected the fridge there figuring the voltage drop could be an issue over time. Not an electrician by any means, but thought a little overkill here couldn't hurt. LMK.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:02 PM
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Sure, Dave, or if you have the means it would be cool to see your numbers in a similar test, curious if a "new one" performs substantially better.

I am running 4ga to a fuse block under the passenger seat, then from there it's 14ga to the back where the fridges are. So there's room to upgrade here, but I'm really not sure how much benefit there would be, heck all the stock 12v wiring is like 26ga or something. I need to do the measurement test when it's cycling on 12v to see if there's a drop, will try to knock that out this weekend.
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  #20  
Old 07-26-2012, 10:44 PM
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Don't really have the means to do the test myself, but seems like a simple way to get a realistic benchmark. I'll drop you a PM when I return. If we can't do it before, perhaps at the rally.
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