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Old 07-29-2006, 09:14 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Default different electrical problems

So my sister was driving the 40 this week and called me telling me that the fuel gauge and engine temperature gauge weren't working. I'm like great

Only things I can think of are 1) it rained the night she drove it and it got a little wet. However this truck has gotten REALLY wet on the inside before with no problems. Also now that it's been dry for a couple days I would think they would work but they don't. 2) I washed the inside of the truck after the Ghost Town run, but kept it just to the tub. The fuel sending unit might have gotten wet, so maybe that's causing a problem.

I noticed this evening when I started the truck when it was cold the fuel gauge went up but then got shaky and went back to dead mode. Don't know what this means. All the fuses are good, anyway if the fuse for the instruments was dead my oil pressure gauge wouldn't work either, and it does. Help please?
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Old 07-29-2006, 09:20 PM
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Matt,

If the fuel gauge is like the oil pressure gauge, you can test it by grounding the wire that connects to the sender. The gauge should peg all the way to F. That's about all I know, though. Is the ground wire still connected? I HATE electrical problems! If you want that harness, I've started hacking in to it, but you can sure have it back to use/look at.
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Old 07-29-2006, 09:27 PM
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Any chance the back of the gages are just corroded a little? Are these anything like 62's? On those you'll be driving along then all of a sudden the temp will just peg, or the pressure wigs out, etc. So you pull the dash then clean up the contacts & so forth.

Remember that cruizers.com board like 3 years ago? That's where I learned that.. when I had a 62. Man that was a while ago, before you were Subzali even.... then everyone migrated over to Mud...

Anyway I hope that helps, sorry I've never been in a 40 dash. Still a pup I guess.
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Old 07-30-2006, 12:09 AM
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Well it looks like I'm an electrical wizard

Both gauges work fine now, maybe they got wet and they just had to get cycled a couple times/used a little bit to get them to work again. I don't know, I just wish the same kind of thing would happen for my turn signals.

Yeah that cruizers.com board was WAY before I had the Cruiser...there's still some people like Yoshiman that still frequent that place...can't figure out why though. All I ever go to that website anymore for is the classified section, it's still pretty good.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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Old 07-30-2006, 12:25 AM
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Wait.... you have a sister that drives a Land Cruiser?
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Old 07-30-2006, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali
...I just wish the same kind of thing would happen for my turn signals...
What are your turn signals doing? I recently had to rewire turn signals on my 73 FJ40. They were doing all sorts of strange things. When the headlights were on, the front didn't work, back only worked on the passenger side. With headlights off they all worked, but weak on the driver side and nothing in the back with brake lights on, etc... It ended up being a combination of bad grounds all around, an after-market flasher under the dash, and a poorly spliced in trailer harness in back. I pulled all the unnecessary wires in back, cleaned up all the grounds and replaced the bullet connectors, added a correct Toyota flasher unit and it works perfect now.

My horn also wasn't working and that ended up being rusty/dusty connections inside the steering wheel where the buttons contact. I imagine that the connections for the gauges are probably in similar condition behind the dash which causes them to function sporadically.
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Old 07-30-2006, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman
then everyone migrated over to Mud...
Not me, I'm a die hard Lister.
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Old 07-30-2006, 10:58 PM
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Matt, on your 77 the gauge connections will be through a circular multipin connector on the back of the cluster. It is in a protected place and seldom corrodes or even gets very dirty. Since you had two gauges acting flaky at once it is unlikely to be a sender, a bad ground, corrosion, or the result of your washing the inside.

The connector is soldered to a circuit board that extends across the back of the cluster and it is possible that through years and vibration you have one or more intermittent solder joints there, likely on a trace that provides power to both gauges, since the senders provide a resistive path through the gauges to ground. Since the problem seems to have corrected itself for the time being, I wouldn't worry about it unless it reoccurs, at which point you should pull the cluster and examine those solder joints under strong lighting and magnification.

If it's not a solder joint, it could also be one of the female terminals in the connector that has simply gotten loose and lost it's tension on the male pin. Again, it would be one of the ones (there are several, but only one for the temp and fuel) which provide power to the gauges. HTH and happy cruisin'!
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Old 07-31-2006, 06:16 PM
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well they stopped working again, and then worked again, but now seemed to have stopped for good, as now tapping on the gauge glass doesn't make them work anymore That's okay I was planning on taking it apart and looking at it anyway. I guess the ghost town run just did it in...

Hey Jeff you're having a Cruiser electrical discussion at the meeting this week right? BTW is anybody meeting to eat prior to the meeting?
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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Old 08-13-2009, 01:59 PM
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This problem is still ongoing (though I had forgotten I had posted about it). It seems to get worse if I've been doing a lot of 4-wheeling (don't know if it's the bouncing or the dust). I'm getting closer because I have an FSM and there is a good page about how to test these circuits - sometime I will have to dig into that deeper and see what I can find out.
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TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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