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  #31  
Old 10-26-2012, 10:17 AM
azcromntic azcromntic is offline
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Maybe the answer is in the fact that to get the pressure at elevation we'd have to draw in 1.17 times the amount of air. In essence the pressue we are looking for is held constant. That is, the expected pressure by design (our sigma) is actually a reference point and not variable.
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  #32  
Old 10-26-2012, 01:42 PM
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Randy you should at least quote the source, other wise it is Plagiarizing. Not a good thing in this world.
I agree, and if you go back and carefully read what I posted, I very clearly said I cut and pasted that text directly from a page of the manual for an older Porsche 911. I never claimed that the text provided was written by me.

I also said you can easily correlate that same information from multiple other sources. I Googled "cylinder compression test altitude compensation" (or something close to that) and it came up with tons of hits. All of the different authors said exactly the same thing.
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  #33  
Old 10-27-2012, 09:23 AM
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So, with out permission you violated a copy right. Funny thing that is, still not a good thing Randy.
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  #34  
Old 10-28-2012, 10:50 PM
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So, with out permission you violated a copy right. Funny thing that is, still not a good thing Randy.
Nope, it was posted on the internet for all to see and access, so no copy right infringement as long as it was only used for reference purposes. Had I tried to sell it or publish it for profit without permission, then it would be a different story.

Didn't they teach you that in law school? Handing out tainted legal opinions is not a good thing Robbie.
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  #35  
Old 10-29-2012, 08:44 AM
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OK, lets take another swing.

Your compression does indeed seem low..... actually way below what it looks like toyota recommends for an overhaul.

BUT if it isn't smoking I sure wouldn't expect it to be losing 2 quarts in 400 miles. I mean that just seems excessive.

Robbie, does 2qt's in 400 miles seem on par with a motor that has that kind of compression and no smoke? I'm mainly curious for my own knowledge.

Now, have you sealed up the valve cover yet? that seems like an easy job to try and get it leak free.
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  #36  
Old 10-29-2012, 09:46 PM
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We have guests in town. They are using it so i wont be able to do the valve cover. I did tighten the valve cover bolts. We'll see how much oil it uses while they use it.
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:27 AM
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Yes Marco, I have in the past seen consumption that high with low compression. Especially if one is using a 5w-30 oil that Toyota recommends for the USA. With worn engines, it may be best to run some 10w -40 conventional. One even could use a oil stabilizer like Lucas to help consumption while deciding or saving money to work on the engine.
And just recently, Barry brought his wife's 80 in for a HG. He has some high oil comsumption as well, but his compression is like 155-165 on my guage. I looked with a bore scope first and found no major vertical scratching, the pattern is somewhat wide, but the cross hatching is still there and looks OK for the milage. The head gasket was failing in 2 places and when It is all done, we will see what is up.
One would be best served to look for oil leaks, especially at the valve cover and the lower pan arch and the oil pump O ring. The PCV can also be a culprit.
I think Andrew has looked at most of this, as he has been chasing this problem with help for a while now on mud.


One thing I have seen consistantly on these 1FZ is that they build up carbon on the tops of the pistons. Thus adding compression when doing a compression test. The one big thing about this carbon, is that it will ping under load going up hills. This over time will not be good on the engine.Retarding the timing and robbing power, creating more carbon, a visicious cycle. I have seen carbon so thick, that the valve have been contacting the carbon on the surface of the engine.
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  #38  
Old 10-30-2012, 08:35 AM
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Cool, thanks for the info, I always am up for learning about this kind of stuff. It didn't seem to me like it made sense but from what you say it does.

It's interesting to see Barry's numbers that high, it puts things in perspective.

Sounds like the motor is indeed getting kinda worn..
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  #39  
Old 10-30-2012, 11:18 AM
azcromntic azcromntic is offline
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Two things keep coming up in the back of my mind. If I take it to somebody to have them do the work I'm probably not going to get to do the "while I'm in there" things. To me, those are the gotchas.

Secondly, I could replace the valve cover gasket and spend a months worth of 1 hour sessions pissing off the wife doing it but should I even do it if I'm going to rebuild anyway?

I do 99% of my own automotive work on cars my family has. The only time I take them to a shop is when I don't have the tools (expensive ones), don't have the space or don't have the time. When I do the work I usually have a "while I'm in there" list and a vision of how things should be when I'm done. I don't like to "redo" or re-disassemble a second time for something that could have been done "while I'm in there". Sometimes a missed opportunity to do those spells big work later on.

Plus, if I take it to someone then they don't know what is new and what isn't on the vehicle so I might be paying for parts that were replaced just a few months ago. Again, wasted.

I don't know. I'm pretty sure another engine is the way to get a bunch of little things off my list at once. Question is, do I just want to go with another 1FZFE, or go big and turbo it or really bite off a bunch and swap. I don't really have the money for most of that. Only thing I could think of doing is getting block and head set up for turbo then add it a while later. Not sure if that is an option.

Funny thing is, and I just remembered this, I bought the vehicle from a guy named Robbie. I'll have to check the title but I'm almost certain it isn't the same person. He sold it to buy a diesel VW.

Why don't you all vote for what would be a good way to go.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
Yes Marco, I have in the past seen consumption that high with low compression. Especially if one is using a 5w-30 oil that Toyota recommends for the USA. With worn engines, it may be best to run some 10w -40 conventional. One even could use a oil stabilizer like Lucas to help consumption while deciding or saving money to work on the engine....
Straight 50 weight, non detergent!
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