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Old 08-04-2006, 05:59 PM
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Default Dual Battery Isolator

Nakman,

I remember you (at least I think it was you) showing me your dual battery isolator. I'm getting ready to test and install Red Chili's improved alternator and I was thinking seriously of installing a dual battery system. If anyone else has some suggestions for wiring this up, I would be much obliged. Thanks in advance.
the Other Matt
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Old 08-04-2006, 06:20 PM
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Matt, I have the hellroaring system.

here is a link we did in the 80's section on mud. Should be applicable to your vehicle for wiring.
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Old 08-04-2006, 07:10 PM
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Oops, no link?
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Old 08-04-2006, 07:28 PM
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I got my isolator from an RV place. Here's the schematic of how I used it for many years with my 1980's era boom car stereo.
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Old 08-04-2006, 08:29 PM
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Link:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=81537
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:01 AM
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Ken,

That's an amazing amount of dual battery information. Which Hellroaring isolator/combiner did you go with? (Jeff, which manufacturer did you go with?) Due to space limitations in the 4Runner engine compartment, I need to place the battery(s) elsewhere. So, I need to get some good welding cable (what is it 0/00?), perhaps some marine cable would do. I also want to be able to monitor the voltage or charge on the batteries which will definately alter the topology of the circuit. This could be interesting. Is there a place around here to buy good connectors/cable?

Matt
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:50 AM
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I went with the BIC-95300B setup. Quite a few foks on Mud used this one. One of the nice things is that after I installed it, the light was blinking instead of being hard on. That meant my ground connection was poor. Tightned it up and was great. Know whenyou have a ground issue is a good plus.

In normal operation it will tie the batts together when they are both charged. So if both batts are in good shape, after you start the car, they get tied together. After you shut it off, they get separated after a moment when the main discharges slightly because of the load.

You can set it to be always tied like when winching or keep them always seperate, but then the second batt does not charge.

I am really happy with it and Mike at hellroaring is great for customer service.
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Old 08-05-2006, 09:02 AM
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I have the set up as Romer,and it works great.
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Old 08-05-2006, 09:09 AM
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Yup, Hellroaring basic backup system. Pretty much plug & play, set it & forget it.. how I like every electrical device to be.
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Old 08-05-2006, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcmandrake
(Jeff, which manufacturer did you go with?)
I don't remember the brand....I bought it when I built the stereo in 1986
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcmandrake
Due to space limitations in the 4Runner engine compartment, I need to place the battery(s) elsewhere. So, I need to get some good welding cable (what is it 0/00?), perhaps some marine cable would do.
That depends entirely on how much current you expect to pass through it and how long a run it is. 0/00 would be for super-heavy loads like a winch. My application was for a dual, tri-amped stereo system, at 240 watts peak it really wasn't too much current.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gcmandrake
I also want to be able to monitor the voltage or charge on the batteries which will definately alter the topology of the circuit. This could be interesting. Is there a place around here to buy good connectors/cable?
Did you see my schematic? Not shown explicitely, I used a separate fuseblock, ammeter and relay, so it was a completely autonomous auxiliary power system. The only connection to the automotive power system was to charge the second battery through the isolator and of course, ground. I didn't use chassis ground though, I ran all my grounds directly back to the battery in a star ground for lower noise. BTW, I still have that isolator and ammeter, you're welcome to have them as I no longer run a dual battery system. Waytek is a good source for wire and connectors, although a well-stocked hardware store and some auto parts stores carry a decent selection.
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