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  #11  
Old 10-29-2012, 08:50 PM
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Nice work Jeff! Looking great!
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  #12  
Old 10-29-2012, 08:55 PM
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nice work! i'm envious of the sandblaster, i could have really used one of those for similar projects (also from that same day, go figure). I guess you have no way of getting to the backside, but i had great luck with a copper bar behind the sheet to help with the welding.
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  #13  
Old 10-29-2012, 10:14 PM
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That's quite a rack on your "peanut gallery".
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  #14  
Old 10-30-2012, 08:26 AM
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Jeff - that reminds me so much of the metal repair on my 1980 FJ. Keep going! And when you're all done (after final paint), drown the back side of that cavity with axle grease. Water will get in there and it will rust out, if not well protected on the back side.
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  #15  
Old 10-30-2012, 08:35 AM
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Looks great Jeff! That's a tricky spot to repair.
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  #16  
Old 10-30-2012, 08:48 AM
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Looks like a lot of work, it will look great in the end I'm confident.

FWIW, I had a rocker panel fixed on my truck a couple of years ago. I'd crunched it on rocks being stupid without sliders. I found a shop willing to try because I was pretty explicit that my goal was superficially cosmetic but more rust and weather (the door didn't seal right anymore), so I wasn't looking for Concours d'Elegance here... I had a couple of creases but it wasn't quite as wrinkled as yours, primarily just dented and collapsed.

So they opted not to cut any metal out but tacked on a whole bunch of studs that threaded into a slide hammer, which they used to do the reshaping. In the end they wanted to put on a skim of Bondo, which I told them was not necessary since my truck is just painted with old school Toyota no-clear coat enamel that hides flaws fine. It actually looked really good, at least until my sliders flexed into my rockers and dimpled them.
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  #17  
Old 10-30-2012, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Jeff - that reminds me so much of the metal repair on my 1980 FJ. Keep going! And when you're all done (after final paint), drown the back side of that cavity with axle grease. Water will get in there and it will rust out, if not well protected on the back side.
The cavity is sealed - no place to put grease or anything else?

I sprayed all the bare metal surfaces of the cavity and panel with zinc weld-through primer before I welded the panel back on.

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  #18  
Old 10-30-2012, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
So they opted not to cut any metal out but tacked on a whole bunch of studs that threaded into a slide hammer, which they used to do the reshaping.
I thought about how to do this repair - a lot. Among the thoughts I had was to do the slide hammer thing (I have one). Another was to drill a hole (or holes) in the backside to try to pound it out from the back side. But at the end of the day, due to the crinkling of the inner fender part, I decided to do the cut out the whole section approach.

I am an amateur and still learning as I go...

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  #19  
Old 10-30-2012, 09:18 PM
FJCDan FJCDan is offline
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Looks good Jeff
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  #20  
Old 10-31-2012, 08:22 AM
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Jeff - my FJ60 developed a water leak around the fuel filler neck and had about 1 gallon of water sloshing around in that cavity. I removed the tiny rubber drain plug at the bottom and replaced the gasket around the filler neck.

I thought if if you removed the cargo panel on the inside, you could see part of the back side of your repair area. Maybe I have forgotten - I sold my 60 years ago.
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