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  #11  
Old 11-11-2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
I just cracked open my copy of the NEC (National Electrical Code) Book and checked into hot tub and spa requirements. I should hope you would have known intuitively that everything needs to run through GFIs (Ground Fault Interrupters). Also, all wiring needs to be in conduit, and there are specific burial requirements. The spa and hot tub subsection is about 3 pages, the entire section (which also covers swimming pools and fountains) is about 21 pages.

I would bet a 6-pack that a hot tub install would require pulling a permit and passing inspection in most municipalities.

I would be comfortable doing this myself if I were interested in having a hot tub. It isn't rocket science, but there are very specific requirements.
Thanks Zepp!
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  #12  
Old 11-11-2012, 08:01 PM
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If you decide to hire it out I have a good company to refer you to.
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  #13  
Old 11-12-2012, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa View Post
I would bet a 6-pack that a hot tub install would require pulling a permit and passing inspection in most municipalities.
He'd need to pull two permits if it was a permanent installation, general residential construction (Type 1R) and an electrical (Type 3).

http://www.denvergov.org/Portals/696...nstruction.pdf

http://www.denvergov.org/Portals/696...3inputform.pdf

Remember that Denver uses the 2009 IBC with amendments and adopts the Colorado electrical code (which is 2011 NEC without amendment) with one amendment on the service entrance. Not all cities and counties use the 2011 NEC yet.

The wires don't have to be in rigid conduit if you meet length-to-installation requirements. This means LiquidTite is acceptable, which is what I'd do if it's a permanent installation and the electrical was not going to be visible.

You know the city requires home owners to either hire a contractor or take the competency exam? If you want to stay within the law and get permits you can't do the work yourself without taking the test. If you understand how the NEC & IBC work the exams are not too tough. This step is unique to Denver, most municipalities allow you to do your own work as long as you follow the code and get inspections.

But in this case I doubt you'll need a building permit. For pre-fab above ground pools with no improvements (e.g. you don't grade the site and pour a pad) there is no building permit necessary. For the electrical you can use a temporary connection, assuming you fall within the NEC rules. This would be if it's not fastened down and you can use a cord-and-plug up to a length of 15' and have an existing GFI outlet. You might need the permits if there is no outlet close enough.

Now you might need a zoning permit, depends on your neighborhood. Where you live in Observatory Park is not a historic district or anything, is it? Generally structures need a zoning review, but when it's temporary this is unlikely. AFAIK you are either urban-single family or urban edge-single family (we were E-SU-D in our old house, although you might be U-SU-C/D). I don't think you need a zoning permit for accessory structures that are classified exempt or temporary.

http://www.denvergov.org/Portals/646...DZC_051112.pdf

DISCLAIMER: This is not to be taken as professional advice.
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  #14  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:24 AM
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I just found this pretty cool walk-u thru video. I think I might hire it out though, might be faster and cleaner than if I do it myself.

http://www.spadepot.com/spacyclopedi...m#wiring-movie
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  #15  
Old 11-12-2012, 08:59 PM
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Must be GFI protected, of course, and there has to be a disconnect more than 6 feet, but not more than 10 feet away from the inside of the tub wall. This is so the tub pumps can be turned off if someone gets stuck on the bottom suction port. (it happens)

There must be a GFI outlet within a certain distance, I believe it is 15 feet. I usually buy the GE disconnects with the GFI 50 amp 2 pole already in it. They're pretty affordable over other brands. The biggest mistake everyone makes is they take the neutral wire to the neutral bar and the breaker will just keep tripping. The neutral wire goes to the breaker. There are a few tubs that don't use a neutral -- pull one anyway, as someone mentioned, you may need it later. I would also used sealtite/ liquidtite conduit. It's tough, and rated for direct burial.

I totally disagree that electrical testing is easy. I've been taking them for 18 years and haven't taken an easy one yet.

good luck!

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Colorado master electrician
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  #16  
Old 11-13-2012, 05:14 AM
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I totally disagree that electrical testing is easy. I've been taking them for 18 years and haven't taken an easy one yet.
I was talking about the city competency test, these are relatively doable compared to state licensing tests.
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  #17  
Old 11-14-2012, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black95 View Post
Must be GFI protected, of course, and there has to be a disconnect more than 6 feet, but not more than 10 feet away from the inside of the tub wall. This is so the tub pumps can be turned off if someone gets stuck on the bottom suction port. (it happens)
Yeah, that was in there too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by black95 View Post
There must be a GFI outlet within a certain distance, I believe it is 15 feet.
It was minimum 5 feet and maximum 10 feet. That made absolutely no sense to me, but yeah, it was right there in the NEC book.

Dang glad I don't live in Denver (based on what Dave said about their extra requirements).
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