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  #241  
Old 01-28-2013, 10:33 AM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I'm feeling like a bit of an idiot right now... I can't get it to start. I rejetted the carb a bit richer (plugs read lean), checked to make sure I was getting spark, and it won't start. I checked compression, and it's not looking too good. 1-6 read: 80, 85, 70, 65, 55, 70... I'm pretty high up here, so fairly low compression is expected, but that's both too low and too wide of a spread. Right before I bought it everything spec'd out just above 100 with one standout a bit higher (granted, this was at about 5k' compared to my 8k'). I might be in for some expense here, as I'm no where near equipped for what I think this means...
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  #242  
Old 01-28-2013, 03:46 PM
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Well... I did eventually get it to start, and once it did it ran like a top. Engine braking was pretty excellent as well (just as good as my 4Runner was), so I'm guessing something was wrong with my compression gauge (it's an old cheapie and not the most user friendly). I drove it around near the house a bit, and everything checked out perfectly. Then I got bold and went down into Arvada to try to dial it in a bit at an altitude more representative of my daily drive. I stopped at the AutoZone near my wife's office and got a light bulb I knew was out, then it refused to start. I just about killed the battery trying, then I bummed the AutoZone's portable jumper. It wasn't much use either. One of the employees brought his old Chevy minivan over and we jumped it from there. That really got the starter turning and eventually started it. I drove home just in time to beat what has become some pretty good snow.

So now I have to figure out why it doesn't like to start. The AutoZone guy suggested the starter might be on its way out and drawing too much current, though that doesn't seem like anything I've ever seen/heard before. Anyone have any ideas?

At one point while I was testing things out and waiting for the engine to cool down a bit, I rebuilt the trailing arm linkage. It tightened the steering up a smidge, but there's still some work to do there.

Point of note, progressive carbs are far more difficult to jet by ear. I'm going to need a wideband to feel comfortable with this.
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  #243  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:01 PM
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MDH33 MDH33 is offline
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When it's not starting, can you see any fuel in the site glass? Has me thinking you might be running it so lean it's possibly overheating and vapor locking. I recall you mentioning the temp gauge not reading accurately.
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  #244  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:40 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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It starts easier when it's just been run, and yes there is fuel in the sight glass. I read something about a fusible link having to do with the engine starting. Anyone know anything about that?
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  #245  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:56 PM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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The fuseable link came after your rig. What is your start up procedure?

2 pumps of the accelerator, pull the choke and turn the key. Without choke the mixture won't be correct for a cold engine. What is your timing set at? Is the choke working? Sometimes the cable is not fully fastened and pulling the knob does not engage the choke. You might also want to confirm the accelerator pump is squirting fuel into the primary barrel. I know you just rebuilt the carb and it should be good - but the symptoms you describe would be consistent with either of these items.
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  #246  
Old 01-28-2013, 05:04 PM
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Another item to check is your ground connections. Negative post to the frame or engine block - I've seen it both ways. There is also a ground strap from the frame to the starter area, this one is a bit hazy to my recollection - perhaps some can better describe it. For the ground connections you should clean them up to shiny metal and then reattach. Finally check the battery post connection to insure in is solid and not cracked.
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  #247  
Old 01-28-2013, 05:36 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Startup procedure is still being sorted out. My current best guess is:

- clutch in
- choke out if the engine is cold or otherwise unresponsive
- turn key
- If it doesn't catch immediately I'll put the pedal down
- If it continues not catching I'll pump it to squirt the accelerator pump
- If it still won't start I'll let it rest a few seconds to let any heat work its way into things

Timing has the BB about half a BB's width from the bottom of the window (about 4 degrees advanced).

Accelerator pump is confirmed functional.

I'll check the grounds and such in the morning as suggested. A crappy ground at the block would cause a pretty weak spark consistent with what I'm seeing.

When I got back from picking my wife up from work (in her car), I tried to start the 40. It attempted to start a few times, but wouldn't catch. I did notice the starter would occasionally whir uncharacteristically as if the solenoid let go and the gear wasn't in contact with the flywheel... It certainly isn't a constant thing (I would have noticed it for sure) AutoZone guy may have been onto something... Maybe a gear reduction starter is in my future...

Idle shutoff solenoid? I might have heard it clicking after shutoff once this afternoon. I didn't think to investigate...
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  #248  
Old 01-29-2013, 01:37 PM
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I think I found my starting problem... I cleaned up all of the grounds (none of which were in bad shape, but it never hurts). I checked the idle shutoff solenoid (reached in through the vent window and listened for the click while I turned the key between ACC and ON). And I removed the ballast resistor (just for grins). Nada. Finally I got the bright idea to hook up my timing light and see what's going on. At BEST I'm getting 30 RPM from the starter, about 1/3 of the time saw 10 RPM, and when the solenoid let go it was a cool 0. It turns out that what I was mistaking for the engine occasionally trying to catch was the solenoid cutting out and the only thing that was turning was the starter itself! Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but most starters turn at or near 200 RPM. I've not heard too many 40s trying to start (read: only mine), but it seems 30 isn't enough...
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  #249  
Old 01-29-2013, 01:55 PM
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I'm not sure of the rpm question, but I definately know that your Idle Cutoff Solenoid (ICS) needs to have constant power when you are starting (and running) the engine. As soon as the key turns to the on position it (ICS) should have power and as soon as you turn the key to the off position it (ICS) should not have power. Nice debugging work, now get that fixed and weld in an O2 bung so you can borrow my Zeitronix unit.
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  #250  
Old 01-29-2013, 02:04 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicardoJM View Post
I'm not sure of the rpm question, but I definately know that your Idle Cutoff Solenoid (ICS) needs to have constant power when you are starting (and running) the engine. As soon as the key turns to the on position it (ICS) should have power and as soon as you turn the key to the off position it (ICS) should not have power. Nice debugging work, now get that fixed and weld in an O2 bung so you can borrow my Zeitronix unit.
Yes! I was contemplating searching out what the run, but I'd much rather borrow one for the time being.

I'm about to go pull the belts off and run down to O'Reilly for a starter. Wish me luck, and maybe I'll be able to take you up on the wideband offer soon.
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