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  #251  
Old 01-29-2013, 05:37 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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My '78 has the OEM non-gear-reduction starter and has always cranked like a 6 volt Farmall at 5 degrees F. Well, maybe a bit better than that. I have installed other starters (non-GR) and they all crank that way. It always starts, but I do appreciate gear-reduction starters that don't sound so anemic.

You might source a later starter for your truck, and you'll pick up a lot of cranking RPM that way. Tell the store you need a starter for an '87 FJ60.
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  #252  
Old 01-29-2013, 05:48 PM
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rover67 rover67 is offline
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Toyota sells reman starters for a decent price. Not sure if I'd bother with NAPA.

Boudler Toyota gives Rising Sun Members a deal.
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  #253  
Old 01-29-2013, 07:18 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Steve, How many RPM does it turn? 30 RPM seems low even for a 6V tractor.

I called CDan, and he's gone all week for a family emergency according to his outgoing voicemail message. I was REALLY unimpressed with Boulder Toyota the one time I tried to buy parts from them. I don't do business with companies that act that way. Not going into details.

I got a GR starter at O'Reilly. I also got two random belts (as in they don't fit a Land Cruiser). So now I'm completely down (no belts) and it's too damn cold, dark, and snowy out there to do anything about it... I'm really getting sick of this no garage business. My company had better start making money soon.

I have meetings all day for the next two days tomorrow in Arvada, and it would be REALLY nice if I didn't have to play the one car game and leave to go pick up my wife in the middle of it.

The only positive thing to happen today is that I got a lock for the spare that both fit and functioned as it should...
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  #254  
Old 01-29-2013, 07:52 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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While I'm thinking about it, how do you guys tension these belts? It's simple enough (and it may just be that all of the hoses and belts are too cold to even pretend to flex), but I don't think I could have tensioned them the way I was going about it. I gave it a try, but even if the belts were the right ones I don't know that I would have been able to get proper tension on them... The Toyota Manual is mum and the Haynes manual refers to a photo they seem to have forgotten to include...
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  #255  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:07 PM
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I usually tighten them until I think they feel right but usually stay on the loose side... Drive it and if it squeals then a little more. I like them looser than tighter so bearings in stuff like alternators don't get trashed too fast. Probably not the answer you were looking for..... Set the belt the same way you did it on the air cooled stuff. Maybe use the rule for deflection distance of the belt given a certain amount of pressure applied to it. Porsches had a sticker on the deck lid that gave some number, can't remember now.

I noticed when i went to go get belts for my 40 a while back it took a few tries. there were several belt routings for different years with different accessories so it's no surprise the box stores are wrong. Take your old belts next time, it's the only way to get close. I think when I looked at the dealer for my year rig there were like 4 different routings possible... all with different belts.

Bummer on boulder toyota. I like them. eat breakfast with Jerry on occasion and I like to give them the business. For me it has always been a simple matter of walking up, asking for parts and reminding them I am a member of rising sun. Not sure what the deal is.

When I had the non gear reduction starter It started super slow also. can't guess on RPM but it sounded slooooowwww... like total dead battery slow.
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  #256  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:25 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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What I'm having issues with is getting tension in the first place. With the aircooled stuff it's accomplished with shims. Here it's accomplished by rotating the driven devices out on pivots. On the alternator, for instance, I couldn't get enough leverage to overcome the stiffness of the belt (enhanced by the cold). I tried to lever it with a wrench against the engine block, but that was just about as useless. It likely would have been a similar affair with the air pump belt if it were long enough to get on there in the first place. I use the deflection method, and I'm getting inches instead of millimeters with my best tensioning efforts...
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  #257  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:30 PM
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ahh gotcha.

yep, the shims work a treat. I always liked that method.

I just use a big ole pry bar on the cruiser.... 2 footer.
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  #258  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:36 PM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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I used my hi-lift handle. Easy leverage with one hand while e other tightened the bolt to secure the alternator in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
ahh gotcha.

yep, the shims work a treat. I always liked that method.

I just use a big ole pry bar on the cruiser.... 2 footer.
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  #259  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:38 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Am I correct then to lever against the engine case like that? The angles don't seem quite right. Is it the same approach with the air pump on the other side?

I'm really liking this idea:
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  #260  
Old 01-29-2013, 08:50 PM
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some rigs came with a tensioning bolt that went on the arm that has the big slot in it. you could snag that kinda setup from somebody. it works well.

i'll look for a pic.
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