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  #281  
Old 02-01-2013, 11:21 AM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I believe the connector is called a 7mm Bayonet connector. NAPA part# WIP 601140 is the correct size and has the correct adapter (according to their website). There's only one available in the area, anything else would cost extra.

Additionlly, Trico part# 15110 may work (I'm headed down to pick one up from O'Reilly here in a bit). That's a brand owned by Amsoil (or the same parent company), and has some sort of Teflon feature.... According to the counter guy, it does have A bayonet connector in it, but it doesn't state what size...

'74 doesn't show up in any FLAPS computers with the correct blade, but '78-'82 (odd cutoff year there) does show the Amsoil blade... Interesting. I'll let you know how it goes.
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  #282  
Old 02-01-2013, 01:14 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Trico 11-1 (or maybe 1-11) fits like a charm without an adapter. The way they have it positioned I'm thinking it's a cheapie, but it'll work in the near term (I'll worry about it in more detail later when my plate isn't so full). I haven't installed them yet (I just test fit it there in the parking lot) because I'm going to be getting a new windshield in the very near future, but I think they'll work just fine.

Also, they took my core! I was a bit concerned about it being exploded and all...

Finally, It started up (multiple times) and drove with no drama, hiccups, or causes for concern. I want to get with Ricardo soon to take care of the fine tuning, but I think we just entered DD classification! Woo! :
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  #283  
Old 02-01-2013, 01:36 PM
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corsair23 corsair23 is offline
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Congrats on getting the 40 moved into the DD classification
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"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

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  #284  
Old 02-04-2013, 11:08 AM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I'm in the lobby of Bud's Muffler getting the leaky (and extremely poorly built) exhaust replaced. Also getting an o2 bung while I'm at it for some wide and tuning. I don't know if I mentioned it here, but I richened things up after emissions testing to be on the safe side. I'm really looking forward to getting it dialed in... If my Wednesday meetings don't go long, I'm going to try to come to the meeting at Stevinson. Fingers crossed!
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  #285  
Old 02-04-2013, 06:50 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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New exhaust. New windshield. Wipers turned out to be crap, and while they fit there isn't enough tension on the arm to keep them in a functional capacity.

Also, the other night I noticed my dash lights were non-functional and was informed that my taillights were out, but turn signals and such were functional... Fuse was out. Got new fuses yesterday and replaced the one this morning. This evening though, the tail lights and dash lights were out again. Didn't get a chance to check the fuse... Given the amount of rust that was in the tail light housing when I replaced the bulb, I think my gremlin might reside therein... I'll try to investigate tomorrow and order whatever seems most culpable along with the wiper blades.
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  #286  
Old 02-04-2013, 08:47 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Definitely check and clean your fuse block and every ground you can find. Are your dash lights on a dimmer?
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  #287  
Old 02-04-2013, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Definitely check and clean your fuse block and every ground you can find. Are your dash lights on a dimmer?
I didn't catch the year, but if it's like my old 74, the switch grounds to the back of the dash itself. I had to pull the switch, clean the back of the dash and switch face and reinstall. I chased that gremlin for YEARS....headlights showed pos power on both leads, heater didn't work, all kinds of wonky.

Clean your grounds, and all your fuse contacts. It's worth the time.
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  #288  
Old 02-05-2013, 09:10 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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A way to determine if your fuse holders have high resistance is if they get hot when a particular accessory is being used. Mine did! Put your fingers on the fuse when you have (for instance) the headlights on.

Use a bronze .22 cal gun cleaning brush in an electric drill to clean the fuse holder contacts.
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  #289  
Old 02-05-2013, 09:30 AM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Yup. I have the circuit isolated, it's just a matter of time allocation at this point.



I believe (and it was pretty hard to see out there in the dark last night) that the fuse is actually in tact, so it's possible the previous fuse wasn't up to the task and something burned up... Alternatively, it's common to have the switch itself acting as a fuse of sorts, though I think if it were tripped at that level the associated elements (headlights) wouldn't function so I'm probably safe there. I did notice when replacing the previously burned out tail light bulb that the housings have been underwater for a time. If I'm to start cleaning grounds, that's my beachhead. I'll get out there later today (time permitting) and check out what on the circuit is good and what's bad, and probably clean the tail light housings up a bit and see if it helps.

Meanwhile, I noticed yesterday that at about 65mph the back end starts to shimmy as if it's either out of alignment (which I don't think is really an option on these, but I haven't looked into it too deeply yet) or the tires are out of balance... Gotta get that fixed.

Additionally, there's the rattle in the transfer case linkage that needs to be tightened/adjusted out.

There's a weird noise at idle. I think (and this is my aircooled ignorance showing) it sounds like a bubble or something in a coolant coolant line somewhere close to the firewall possibly associated with the cabin heat. Really not something I'm familiar with.

I also noticed a noise at idle that I have traced to a bearing (front if my ears are still any good) in the input shaft... The best way I can think to describe it is like a large ball bearing (the sort one finds in a transmission like this) that's a bit loose (which is exactly what it is, but the default bearing sound is a whine). It goes away if I push the shifter into the 2nd gear synchro (hence input shaft). I need to check the fluid level.

At some point also, I need to adjust the steering box and the drag link to tighten and recenter the steering wheel....

Finally, I want to get with Ricardo soon to get the carb dialed in. It's very difficult (read: I'm not that good) to tune a carb by ear in a car in which one has never experienced a proper tune. Even then, that hunk o' cast iron is probably pretty tired... Rings and a head job may be in my future over the coming months, it's really hard to tell with no baseline experience.

The list is stacking up! Meanwhile, things with my company are finally picking up, so my ability to tear through projects is rapidly diminishing. I spent all day yesterday getting the exhaust and windshield handled, and I have some catching up to do...

EDIT (Steve posted while I was posting): The fuse block is really clean. There's actually not a lot of rust on the truck and the wiring is, on the whole, in really good shape (it's on my pre-purchase inspection checklist).
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  #290  
Old 02-05-2013, 09:50 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Just a note, I had to clean my taillight assembly several times before really getting it clean enough to work properly. Dielectric grease is your friend after that.

With your shimmy, it could be a bent wheel, but they probably would have noticed that when you had new tires mounted. You might try rotating it to the front end to see if the shimmy goes away. Steering damper and shock absorbers in good shape?

With your other idle noise, is the input bearing on your transmission going bad? Does it go away when the clutch is depressed?

Just throwing out ideas.
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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