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  #291  
Old 02-05-2013, 11:09 AM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I'm about to go out there and fiddle with the tail lights. I have very strong suspicions that will be a short chore, but gremlins are notoriously difficult to eliminate (I usually take the shotgun approach, but this car is a decade and a half newer than what I'm usually faced with and in much better shape).

I'm 99% sure a wheel weight came off. It was fine the other day, and it's not like I've done anything that might bend a wheel in the interim. I'll go down to where I had the tires installed tomorrow morning and have them rectify it (it won't cost me anything). If it is bent, I'll swap in the spare. It hasn't been going on long enough to tell me which tire it is via wear patterns.

The noise occurs when I sit at a stop light or something in neutral. The input shaft gets spinning, and as soon as I clutch in and stop the rotation (i.e. push it against a synchro or put it in gear) it goes away. It's either a tired bearing or low fluid.
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  #292  
Old 02-05-2013, 03:58 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I decided to take advantage of the warm, sunny, and not very windy day and take care of a few things on the 40 To Do list. First, I tracked down my short. As expected, it was in the tail light housing. The fuse was blown, and as best I can tell it blew the second I turned the headlights on. Following the circuit brought me to only a few possible places. I knew the PS tail light housing was fairly rusty, so I pulled both lenses. The DS housing wasn't very bad at all, and the PS one was still nasty.

I pulled the bulbs on the PS side (the glass in the reverse light bulb has separated from the metal base), and right away found my short.

If you look really closely, you can see where the corrosion between the contact point (positive) and the side of the housing (negative) are very close, and the rust (iron oxide III, which is marginally ferrous) is bridging the gap. I cleaned it up with some sand paper, nudged the contact toward the center a bit, replaced the fuse and the bulb (left the reverse light out for the purpose of having it on hand to source the replacement), et viola! tail lights function with no shorting.


While I was at it, I checked the engine oil (a bit low from either leakage or burning... not sure which yet), trans fluid (fine), checked the transfer case linkage (it's loose, but it seems to be from wear), and finally cleaned it out and installed the SOR floor mats I got a while back.
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  #293  
Old 02-05-2013, 08:36 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Query: I replaced the brake booster several pages back, and I'm a bit curious about brake boosters (this is the first time I've ever messed with one). The original booster seems to have braked better (I recall that I maybe could have locked up the tires) than the new one despite an audible vacuum leak. The new one is better than no booster, but it's not strong enough to lock up the tires. I thought I read somewhere that there might be something of a break in period for a new booster, but I just looked and couldn't find anything to that effect. Should I be expecting the brakes to be less than stellar, are they all less than stellar, or should i be trying to figure out why the brakes are less than I feel they should be?
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  #294  
Old 02-06-2013, 08:22 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Good progress! You might want to eventually replace that taillight housing down the road, when you find a nice one at the Rising Sun parts swap.

A brake booster should not need any break-in period. I have 33x9.5s on my truck and it's not great about locking all 4, unless you really get on it hard. In a true panic stop, my rears lock first, which is fairly scary in a short wheelbase vehicle. I would try to drive a few other 40s to get a feel for what their brakes feel like.
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  #295  
Old 02-06-2013, 10:03 AM
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Jacket Jacket is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
In a true panic stop, my rears lock first, which is fairly scary in a short wheelbase vehicle.
No ****! Happened to me last night on the way home. No fun at all.
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  #296  
Old 02-06-2013, 10:33 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Good progress! You might want to eventually replace that taillight housing down the road, when you find a nice one at the Rising Sun parts swap.

A brake booster should not need any break-in period. I have 33x9.5s on my truck and it's not great about locking all 4, unless you really get on it hard. In a true panic stop, my rears lock first, which is fairly scary in a short wheelbase vehicle. I would try to drive a few other 40s to get a feel for what their brakes feel like.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
No ****! Happened to me last night on the way home. No fun at all.
Mine has been doing that ever since I rebuilt my rear brakes. I think I have them adjusted too tight. I've just kinda been waiting for the shoes to wear down, but maybe I should adjust the shoes back a bit.

To spectre, it seems strange that a faulty/leaky brake booster would work better than a good brake booster. What style brake booster is the new one?
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  #297  
Old 02-06-2013, 10:41 AM
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kurtnkegger kurtnkegger is offline
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If the booster is from a newer vehicle? I replaced my old booster with a newer one from a early 90's 4runner, perhaps it needs the single direction valve for the vacuum line? Air pushing back and forth could be a cause for weaker booster....Just a thought....
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  #298  
Old 02-06-2013, 10:45 AM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Both were stock '74 40-series. The check valve is a new one. The difference in feeling may be faulty memory, and it's not like I ever had the original one out on the highway or anything. I gave it a good stomp at a last minute red and had the back attempt a step out. I assume that's what we're talking about. I just checked he booster (depress brake pedal, shut down, feel pedal fall or however it was) and it checks out. With the step out being as it was, I'm going to tighten up the fronts a click or two and see if that part is rectfied. It may just be that '70s vintage brake boosters and '00s vintage brake boosters are a different breed and its just my own lack of familiarity with the animal.
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  #299  
Old 02-06-2013, 07:50 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Well... I was really hoping to make it to tonight's meeting, but I'm still in meetings coming up on 8... My business partner is interested in coming as well (he drives a '96 4Runner), but we have to get this pig to market.
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  #300  
Old 02-11-2013, 09:29 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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So I don't know if this will help or if you care any more, but here's a quick video I shot yesterday of my 40 starting up after sitting for a month. I thought later that pumping the accelerator pedal would have done nothing if the float bowl really was empty. I didn't check before turning it over, it's just habit to pump the gas. I have a NAPA reman starter, not a gear-reduction starter. And a few-year-old Autozone battery.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80NoK...ature=youtu.be

And a little entertainment on my first try to take a video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6ora...ature=youtu.be
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"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
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2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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