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  #321  
Old 02-15-2013, 02:01 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I've been testing the crap out of this thing to see if I could trace the problem. The primary informative tests so far have been:

If I hardwire the pump directly to the battery, I have full function. Pump is good.



When I plug my multimeter in as shown, there is zero voltage. When I throw the switch, there's battery voltage. Switch opens ground, power comes from the other lead. The switch and the ground side of the harness are good.

The wipers and radio both work, so the harness is good from power to there. Additionally, I tested conductivity from the fuse block to the plug in the engine compartment so we're good there too.

Also, I verified the plug has power by putting the multimeter between the positive plug terminal and negative on the battery.

Stumped.

Last edited by spectre6000; 02-15-2013 at 05:04 PM.
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  #322  
Old 02-15-2013, 05:36 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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A bit ago I tried cleaning and reshaping the plug itself (it's about the only thing I can't really test). It didn't do a damn thing.

I just went out to retest something I'm fairly certain has tested correctly a dozen times just to make absolutely sure (plug positive to plug ground). It tested exactly as it should. Then I plugged it back in, and magically it started working again...

My best guess is that it's way too cold for the electronics cleaner and it needed some time and/or the multiple pluggings and unpluggings finally deformed the plug in such a way that it made sufficient contact again... I don't know if it will work tomorrow, but we'll see what happens. I'm cautiously optimistic. Even if it doesn't work, I think the plug itself is all that would need to be replaced.
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  #323  
Old 02-16-2013, 05:05 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Finally had a chance to fuel up and test the fuel economy gains.

ODO@ last fill up: 25,193.8 mi
ODO@ most recent fill up: 25,299.7 mi
miles driven: 105.9 mi
Tire correction factor: 6.7%
Actual miles driven: 113.0 mi
Gallons filled: 7.880 gal
Gas mileage: 14.34 mpg

Notes: Two of the three days driven experienced extreme winds on 93 and 72 leading up to the canyon (wheel a good 45º into the wind to go straight when driving across the wind even with steering being well adjusted and in spec, going into the wind was a challenge that required the pedal and the floor becoming well acquainted and STILL unable to maintain the speed limit). A good portion of the miles driven were city stop/go. Secondaries used only during steep hills at high speeds. When we checked my timing @ Randy's it was at 7º BTDC despite having been set at approximately 12º BTDC; it may have been the heavy winds (most likely), but it felt a little sluggish... I'll check the timing at my next opportunity (Monday?) to see if I need a new distributor clamp.

On the whole not as good as I would have liked, but still a 30% gain for a day's worth of tweaking. I think the average will prove to be a bit closer to the desired 15 mpg in the long run since those super windy days are not the norm.
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  #324  
Old 02-16-2013, 09:18 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Having some fun with the photos my wife took today. This is my current fav and new desktop photo.



These are pretty good too.




Last edited by spectre6000; 02-16-2013 at 09:53 PM.
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  #325  
Old 02-17-2013, 08:17 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Very nice photos - thanks for posting!
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  #326  
Old 02-18-2013, 06:42 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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The rubber bumper on my tire carrier died the other day causing the tire carrier to make a nasty racket and further the dent in my tail gate. SOR has a bumper for something on the order of $15, CCOT has a less expensive one ($8), but with a $20 minimum it sort of becomes moot. I couldn't get a hold of CDan, so I figured I'd give McGuckins a go. Sure enough, a "cane tip" made for a perfect replacement at a wallet breaking $2.50. It's the rubber pad used at the bottom of crutches, canes, and (based on their location in sporting goods) walking sticks. A 3/4" tip was a perfect size for the wide flat headed screw that was the core of the original bumper. Given its intended use, I have high hopes for longevity. It will likely need a bit of trimming as it's the full length of the screw as adjusted, but no biggy. Photos when I have daylight.

Additionally, I had a thermal event on my way down. The temp gauge got about halfway between the hot side of normal tick and the hot end of the gauge. I'm not exactly sure what was the cause, but maybe someone with a bit more water cooled experience can clue me in. I noticed at the time the temp gauge started creeping up (I caught it early in its ascent) that the heater wasn't blowing very warm air (more on this later), so I figured maybe the coolant was a little low. I wasn't very far from a FLAPS, so I took a detour and got a gallon. I let the engine cool for a few minutes, then opened the cap a bit. Plenty of steam (expected) and a few cups of boil over. I let it cool a bit more, and was able to add nearly a gallon. I cranked it back up, opened the heater valve, and let it run for a minute or two (hoping to get rid of any bubbles I might have created). I was able to get a bit more out of the gallon into the system. I finished the drive to the hardware store (everything looking good), did my thing, then added a bit more out of the gallon. I anticipate adding a bit more tomorrow to finish up the gallon.

After all of this on the way home the temp gauge was, if anything, reading low. This includes a fairly long uphill stretch at relatively low RPM (seems like a recipe for generally higher engine temperatures to me). The rear heater was putting out a reasonable amount of heat during this, but the front heater seemed to only be circulating cab air... It may have been nothing more than a lucky hunch earlier, but I may also have a bubble waiting to pounce. Thoughts?

I'll have to find it, but I have an infrared thermometer somewhere if anyone can clue me in as to what temps ore to be expected where. My radiator is pretty new (was replaced by the PO with near as makes no difference to zero miles at time of purchase), and may not be the best match to the engine, but this luftkühler doesn't know how to figure that out... I think it's fine, but I'd rather know if it can be known. I forgot to flush the coolant when I did all the fluids a month or so back (aircooled brainfart there...), so that might be something worth looking into as well.
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  #327  
Old 02-18-2013, 07:14 PM
loudbay loudbay is offline
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Spectre, nice truck, great photos! We have a twin 'new to us' 40 thing going on.

Cheers,
Matt
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  #328  
Old 02-18-2013, 09:18 PM
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kurtnkegger kurtnkegger is offline
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Its pretty common for the front heater core to get gummed up with hair, leaves, and other debris that really restricts the airflow. I would suspect something like that if your rear heater was putting out being both units share the same temperature valve. Rebuild kits can be had by a vendor on Mud.
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  #329  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:49 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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You can learn a lot with an IR thermometer. At full hot (after driving for some time), you should see 180-190F along the head, and upper radiator hose. Not surprisingly, the thermostat housing temp should be close to the set-point of your thermostat. The lower radiator hose might only be 120F or less. Turn on the heater (Fan on high, valve open) and you should see a significant difference between the inlet and outlet hoses to your heater. If not, then your heater core (internally) may be plugged, since it isn't dissipating heat into the truck cab.

Check out some other FJ40s if you can (or any 2F 'cruiser) and see what readings they have.
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  #330  
Old 02-19-2013, 02:24 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I used some liquid/graphite lock lube this morning to make the cable pulls in the dash nice and smooth this morning, and checked the radiator... I finished off the gallon and it is still wanting for more. Allie is going to pick some up from me on her way howe from work this afternoon, and we'll see how much is still lacking. I'll probably be doing this for a while as the bubbles work their way to the radiator. I think when the PO replaced the radiator and such, he didn't strike me as the most fastidious sort and probably didn't put enough coolant in. 4 gallons seems like a lot to me, and it probably would have to him as well. I'm going to keep an eye on things and see if I'm running hot (not according to the temp gauge, but it's worth watching) and blowing it out the down tube, or maybe slowly burning it through the head gasket (no signs of that either). Otherwise, it was kind of warm yesterday, and maybe it just hasn't been run in warmer weather... I really don't know the behavior of water cooled cars when it comes to this sort of thing... Please chime in if anything sticks out as remotely noteworthy. Assume I'm a complete naif.

Meanwhile, as stated previously: the bumper on my tire carrier gave up the ghost this past weekend. The rubber got brittle, and the part that holds onto the specialized screw let go and it was just hanging on there like a really loose washer.



I took it off and was left with just the screw and a lot of noise as it beat up the tailgate over every bump in the road.



SOR has a replacement for $15 (plus another $5 or so for shipping and another $15 because they can somehow get away with that in 2013). CCOT has a slightly different one for $9, but there's a $20 minimum and I don't have an immediate need or desire for anything in that price range right now, plus shipping of course. So I went to McGuckins and found this (and proceeded to take a nice shot of the ground with it out of focus in the foreground):



It's a rubber tip for a cane, or crutches, or (given it's location in the sporting goods department) walking/hiking sticks. I'm thinking the wear from use shouldn't be a longevity issue given its intended purpose, and it can't be much worse than the factory rubber in terms of what little UV exposure it might get where it lives. Also, $2.50. The key is that it has a 3/4" hole, which is close enough to the factory hardware for a snug fit and can still be fitted by conventional means. It was a little longer than necessary and required cutting it a bit shorter, but in the end:



A nice fit, good and soft, the carrier closes easily and doesn't rattle! Win!
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