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  #331  
Old 02-19-2013, 02:55 PM
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corsair23 corsair23 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spectre6000 View Post
I really don't know the behavior of water cooled cars when it comes to this sort of thing... Please chime in if anything sticks out as remotely noteworthy. Assume I'm a complete naif.
Nice job with the tire carrier "bumper"

As for coolant...Just to make sure (assuming that you are not using premixed coolant) that you should be mixing it 50/50 with distilled water, give or take?

Too little coolant and the water will freeze in the block etc. Too much coolant vs. water will actually cause the truck to run hotter. I can't remember but the bottle will tell you what split protects down to what temp, or should. If you want to be really anal about it like me you can buy one of those Prestone testers that sucks up a bit of the coolant mix from the radiator and tells you what your mix/temp ratio is. When I last flushed my radiator in the LX I ended up with a 60/40 split despite my effort to measure things out. The truck ran about 5-10F hotter than what I was used to before the flush so I checked the ratio and sure enough it was high. After getting it closer to 50/50 the temps came back down to what I was expecting. I know this was not the reason your 40 was running hotter given the lack of fluid in the radiator, just a note to not just dump straight coolant in the radiator to top it off.
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  #332  
Old 02-19-2013, 03:25 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Thanks! Great assumption/non-assumption (pretend I've never held a wrench!). I'm using premixed (the NAPA didn't have any distilled water and I didn't know how much I was going to need). I know the freezing point differences between water, ethylene glycol, and the 50/50 mix, so I didn't make that mistake.

After adding the coolant, the temp gauge never made it to the cool mark in the operating range of the gauge where it would normally ride right at the cool mark. Also, the front heater seems to be just recirculating the cabin air while the rear heater is blowing fairly warm air. I know the gauges are about as numb as a gauge can be, and the heater core could be dirty or something... I also know this is restated, I'm just trying to make sure I'm not unknowingly making some noob mistake.

I KNOW the PO replaced the radiator.

I KNOW the PO was not necessarily the most fastidious sort.

I THINK when the PO replaced the radiator, he drained the system.

I KNOW he did not run it much at all after the radiator was replaced.

I THINK, given the above, it's not at all out of the question that the heater section of the plumbing would have drained during this operation.

I THINK if a cooling system is drained, it's not uncommon to have to top it off periodically for a time afterward to take care of any bubbles that work their way to the top of the radiator (the high point in the system).

I THINK that the heater not putting out heat could easily mean there is a bubble in that part of the system.

I THINK that since the rear heater is below the front heater, it's feasible that it could get coolant while the front is not getting any.

I KNOW the front heater was blowing warm air in my experience with the truck and the temp gauge never showed it was getting hot prior to yesterday (save if I turned the engine off and let it sit fairly briefly before turning it back on).

THEREFORE, my current theory is that enough air finally aggregated in just the right places (the front heater core and the top of the radiator, aka higher slow flow areas) to cause coolant flow issues resulting in an uncontrolled thermal condition. My resulting strategy is to top it off until it stops coming up short to a max of 4 gallons. If, at that point (actually a little before) it keeps wanting coolant, the coolant is obviously getting out somewhere and I have a bigger problem. If it keeps running hot, I have a bigger problem. If it stops wanting coolant before then, it's no longer running hot, and the heater is still not very warm, I'll pull the heater apart and clean out the core. If it stops wanting coolant before then, it's no longer running hot, and the heater consistently blows hot again, I'm good.
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  #333  
Old 02-19-2013, 04:57 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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I doubt you have a bubble (air lock) in the front heater core or lines - 2Fs seem very forgiving in this respect. But, anything is possible. Do the IR test, or grab the lines and see how hot they feel. You can also remove a heater core hose and manually 'prime' the heater core to check its fullness.

I have owned several Toyotas where the rear heater got hot faster than the front - my '95 Land Cruiser and '98 4Runner, for example. I'm not sure that the rear heater getting hot faster is an indication of a problem.
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  #334  
Old 02-19-2013, 05:06 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I have the stock 1.5 F, though I doubt it's much different in that regard.

It's not an issue of time, over the course of a 30 minute drive (almost entirely up hill) both cores should be sufficiently (and similarly) hot. This morning the coolant was low enough to be invisible from the top of the radiator after filling it to the brim yesterday, so I'm clearly a bit low and still burping.

I'll be going into town tomorrow, so I'll see about digging the IR thermometer out tonight and check it out when I get down there and the engine has had some time to warm up.
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  #335  
Old 02-19-2013, 06:49 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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I think you're on the right track. However, an F engine takes 35 pints of coolant. A 2F takes 38. I'm not sue which coolant system the 1.5F has, but I'm thinking 35 pints is your target.

Also, the top of the thermostat is supposed to have an o-ring (actually it's cross section is rectangular), which if left out could result in coolant bypassing the thermostat and causing a cool running condition. This part is commonly forgotten when servicing cooling systems. Your thermostat could also be stuck open. HTH
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  #336  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:04 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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According to the manual, the coolant capacity is 16 quarts/4 gallons. If I get anywhere close to that though, I've got some pretty significant consumption issues. So far I was able to add about 1 1/4 gallons all in (about a quart today). That sound close to what you might find in the heater section and an air bubble or two. I'll check the level in the radiator again before I head back up here tomorrow afternoon/evening and top it off if necessary (bottle is behind the seat).
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  #337  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:26 PM
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MDH33 MDH33 is offline
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Does your cooling set-up have an overflow/fill bottle? you keep mentioning you're checking the radiator. Also, if there's any mystery with your coolant, the radiator and the previous owners maintenance, I would just drain and flush it and then add the right amount to baseline and see what happens.
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  #338  
Old 02-19-2013, 08:50 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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I don't know when the overflow bottle started, but it was post-'74. I have a down tube.

The thing about the PO is that he did a lot of rebuilding, but he never had it running so never checked things to make sure they worked like they should (or burped the cooling system). He was a professional mechanic (small industrial diesel engines), so his work is pretty good on the whole (and I'm thankful for that) but he wasn't one to check specs (i.e. coolant capacity). Also, he sucked at body work... The fluids were all zero miles when I get a hold of it. The comments about forgetting to flush it are because a changed all of the other fluids just 'cause for baseline purposes and forgot about the coolant (this is the first car I've gotten super familiar with that had such a device).
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  #339  
Old 03-05-2013, 12:05 PM
spectre6000 spectre6000 is offline
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Updates:
Coolant situation is officially handled. Heater has resumed function. It's been fine for a few weeks now, just didn't seem to warrant a post.

I've managed to get a few tanks of gas burned, so I figured I'd update on the jetting results.

As previously stated, the first (partial) tank after the jetting resulted in 18.01 mpg. Due to various circumstances surrounding that tank, I don't think it's a very good number.

The next (more or less full) tank of gas netted 14.34 mpg. There were multiple days (2 of the 3 days I did any driving) of severe head winds (the sort of thing that has you turning left to go straight, and if it's in your face you are struggling to maintain speed).

That weather was followed by lots and lots of snow, so the hubs were locked and the resulting figures reflect this (more than I thought they would). 13.35 mpg and 12.68 mpg (this tank had several miles of 4LO driving during the worst of the weather up here).

This morning I filled up again. This tank is about 2/3-3/4 with locked hubs and netted 14.81 mpg.

I'm optimistic that normal driving without such adverse conditions will net me my desired 15 mpg average. Regardless, compared to the 11 mpg I was averaging prior to jetting, the worst tank is still a viable improvement, and if I never do better than the 14 mpg range, I'm still almost 30% ahead! If you assume the average tank of gas runs about $40, that's an average savings of $12/tank. I'm filling up about once a week, so that's $624/year to spend on lifts and winches and such. Win.
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  #340  
Old 03-05-2013, 02:58 PM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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Nice. It will be interesting to follow the MPG over time.
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