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  #1  
Old 12-07-2012, 11:29 PM
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Default Dash LEDs in my 80- help

I'm planning on getting some illumination back in my dash but need some education on the subject. I've read through Mike's (Treeroots) thread on Mud but other info regarding LEDs suggest that each light/bulb needs a resistor. My goal is to first tackle my heater control module first and than move out from there. Anyone have any thoughts or info on how to replace these tiny things?
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:33 AM
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You need to current limit LEDs, so that's why the resistor. Depending on the circuit you may or may not need to current limit.

Pretty open ended question you're asking, how much do you already know about them and diodes in general?

The basic values you need to know are the forward voltage and current of the LED (or string of LEDs) you wish to use and the max supply voltage (e.g. the upper limit of your voltage regulator, usually assume about 14.5V). Typically LEDs work around 2-to-3V (you do not need to run them at max V, their output is exponential w.r.t. to bias voltage unlike incandescent bulbs) and in the 10-to-100mA range, so you'll be using values around 100-to-1KΩ with power ratings about 1/4 watt for single string LEDs.
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:36 AM
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I thought I knew alot more than I guess I actually know- thanks Dave. Basically all I've done is read Mike's thread, research LED's on a couple of DIY websites, & order the lights from SuperBrite. They arrived yesterday & I immediately heard this little voice say "you're to jack something up". Of course I ignored that voice, fired up the soldering iron, and grabbed my control module. Fortunately, I just couldn't bring myself to use the iron- that damn voice is annoying!!! I've heard it before but this is the first time I've listened!!!
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baja1d View Post
I thought I knew alot more than I guess I actually know- thanks Dave.
Yes, but Dave knows TOO much
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:45 AM
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It's not rocket surgery, use a 1K resistor and make sure you put the anode to positive supply and cathode to return. The current flows through the LED in the direction the arrow points on the schematic. If the LED is really dim or off, try a /slightly/ smaller resistor, go down to 499 ohms or something. If the LED is really bright or lets the smoke out, go up to 1.5K~2K.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:21 AM
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superbrite leds are supposed to be plug and play. keep in mind, current flows one way through them, so before buttoning up your dash, make sure the bulbs are in correctly and the lights work.

maybe some sort of resistor would have helped, but many of my superbrites died in 1-1 1/2 years. all my taskled led dome lights are fine four years later. i'm not going to hack into my already p.o. hacked wiring to add resistors for dash lights, i'm just going to go back to incandescent when enough go out to warrant pulling the dash again
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:52 PM
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Default disconnect ground first

After using an impact/BFH on the cross drive screws of the windscreen on the 40(1 of 16 freed), one lamp went out! Bugger. Pulled the cluster, re-connect plug, clean lamps/bulbs and... guages are now brighter! After 44 years the light bulbs were dirty. Sometimes it's simple and I am lucky. I do get your talkin' 80 series, but maybe the stock lamps just need a cleaning.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:31 AM
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After using an impact/BFH on the cross drive screws of the windscreen on the 40(1 of 16 freed), one lamp went out! Bugger. Pulled the cluster, re-connect plug, clean lamps/bulbs and... guages are now brighter! After 44 years the light bulbs were dirty. Sometimes it's simple and I am lucky. I do get your talkin' 80 series, but maybe the stock lamps just need a cleaning.
but leds really make it much brighter. at least it did in my pig
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