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Old 12-19-2012, 09:06 AM
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Default Sanity check: crankshaft pulley removal

I've been doing some reading as I prepare to change the timing belt on the T. One thing I cannot seem to get a straight answer on is what the best way is to remove the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley on.

Some write-ups demonstrate the use of a homemade SST that prevents the motor from turning while removing the bolt. This method would be advisable for trucks with an automatic transmission, correct?

Since I have a manual, I should be able to put the truck in gear and set the parking break to prevent the crankshaft from turning while I loosen the bolt, right? To do this, I think the best gear would be 5th, because it requires the most force to turn the motor? Some stuff I have read indicates that 1st gear is best, it just doesn't intuitively make sense to me that that could be the case...
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:45 AM
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5th gear is best. 1st gear makes it really easy to overcome the vehicle's brakes.

Only problem I have run into is either the brakes slip (engine off so no power boost), or the clutch slips. If the brakes slip get a stronger helper, stick it in 4wd and use the parking brake in addition to the brakes.

If the clutch slips you need to find another way to pull the nut off. Maybe the starter bump method? I used that a few times and once it worked and another time it didn't.

Then maybe homemade tool to keep motor from turning.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:47 AM
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If this is a 3.4l engine - the usual method is to install a socket with a breaker bar resting against the frame, and then simply hit the starter very briefly.

This worked nicely on my '98 4Runner to break this nut loose. This is a well documented and frequently used method. Just be careful that the breaker bar doesn't fling into something that matters in the engine compartment. You might get an assistant to help, and be sure to disable the ignition so that the engine does not start.

If you want to use the trans. to hold the crankshaft, put it in 5th gear and chock the wheels.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:49 AM
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You might be over-thinking this one.......It shouldn't make any difference what gear it is in, especially if you have a good functioning emergency brake applied.

For the record though, having it in first gear, which will give you the greatest torque multiplication, would make it easiest for you to move the truck/over come the e brake by turning the crank bolt with a wrench. Same for reverse. So the higher gears would lock it up better for what you're doing.

Again, unless your bolt is super stuck or the ebrake doesn't work, it really shouldn't make any difference.

On engines that rotate counter clockwise when viewed from the front, I used to put a socket on the crank bolt with a long cheater pipe that would wedge up against the frame. Turn the crank with the wrench first to make sure the cheater has no slack and is tight up against the frame. Then hit the key and just bump the starter, this will usually break the bolt loose with one bump. Be sure and pull the coil wire first though to ensure the motor doesnt start.
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:52 AM
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x2 what SteveH and Randy said.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:10 AM
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Thanks all!
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Old 12-19-2012, 12:33 PM
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I was unable to break it loose with the truck in 5th gear, that bolt is spec'd to 210 or 230 flt lbs, IIRC. I disconnected the coil packs to prevent the truck from starting, and used the starter motor. To prevent the breaker bar from flying off, I simply did a quick, single wrap of duct tape around the handle and the frame.

I've heard of a few people getting it off in gear, as you describe, but for many, it is simply way too tight.
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:35 PM
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I use a chain wrench on a weekly basis. Without a chain wrench how are you guys torquing them? It is very important to get 200ftlbs back on that bolt so the pulley does not come loose.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thefatkid View Post
I use a chain wrench on a weekly basis. Without a chain wrench how are you guys torquing them? It is very important to get 200ftlbs back on that bolt so the pulley does not come loose.
True. I almost trashed my 22RE crankshaft because I didn't get that tight enough the first time...
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
If this is a 3.4l engine - the usual method is to install a socket with a breaker bar resting against the frame, and then simply hit the starter very briefly.

This worked nicely on my '98 4Runner to break this nut loose. This is a well documented and frequently used method. Just be careful that the breaker bar doesn't fling into something that matters in the engine compartment. You might get an assistant to help, and be sure to disable the ignition so that the engine does not start.
This is how I spin it loose on the 22R-E, too. There's a flat on the left side frame rail that seems located just for this, too. I have an 18" breaker bar that is plenty long although couldn't say this is the case for a T100.

I tighten it in gear, parking brake on with chocks and braced with a strap. I use a cheater bar and torque until I think I feel a hernia, I pull the tree on the other end of the strap outside into the garage or the socket explodes, whichever comes first (so far no downed trees yet). That's 229.34 ft-lb at 72F and clear skies, might have to correct for current snowy pressure and temp. I assume the clutch will slip before I break that bolt.
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