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Old 01-21-2013, 08:49 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Default Rebuilding an FZJ PS Pump - revised instructions

My brother Tom is not active on this forum, but has a '93 FZJ. Lately, the PS pump began to leak and he set out to remove it. He helpfully rewrote the Toyota instructions on how to do this. Here's his narrative:


After removing, rebuilding and re-installing the power steering pump on my 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser I thought it appropriate to supply some revised instructions from those found in the Toyota service manual to save you trouble in the future should you decide to do this yourself....

Toyota Instructions: "Remove high pressure line banjo fitting"

Revised Instructions: "Remove various unspecified wires and other under under hood equipment to make the high pressure banjo fitting visible. After determining that you can't get closer than 24" to the fitting, take a trip to Auotzone and see if you can get a bulk pack of socket drive extensions. Once discovering the fitting is unmovable with conventional tools, use an impact wrench to spin the incorrect fitting loose without succeeding in detaching the high pressure line. Compete further dis-assembly of the vehicle necessary to get a back-up wench on the incorrectly loosened fitting, heat with a blow torch being careful not to ignite the alternator wiring. Once the banjo fitting is loose, douse any random fires and burn your fingers on the fittings.

Toyota Instructions: "Clamp power steering pump drive gear in a vice. Be careful not to over tighten vice. Remove lock nut, woodruff key and gear."

Revised Instructions: "Clamp power steering pump drive gear in vice (not too tight). Attempt to remove nut. PS pump will jump out of vice landing on the concrete floor several times, the nut will still not be loose. Re-clamp in vice, lots tighter and hope you don't damage gear teeth. Heat lock nut until the pump seal starts to smoke before it can be removed with an impact wrench. Put a three jaw gear puller on the stuck pump gear and tighten until you distort the puller. Heat with torch to finish melting the input seal. Gear will still not come loose until you've destroyed your three jaw puller and had a good cursing session. Modify your pitman arm puller to fit this assembly. Re-heat gear well beyond acceptable limits, when it finally lets go keep body parts clear. The likely removal of temper in the gear will not be evident until after the customer has left your shop.


Toyota Instructions: "Remove rear pump ring body from the housing"


Revised Instructions: "You'll quickly discover that while the rear pump ring body must be removed, we've provided nothing to grab onto like a tapped hole or other attachment point as this would have raised our manufacturing cost. You'll have to build a custom tool to fit in the pump kidneys to pull this part out without scratching machine surfaces. If you do damage any of these surface the pump won't work after you've re-installed it. Good luck.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:34 PM
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Old40Dog Old40Dog is offline
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Thanks Steve! I needed that info before undertook the ps pump on my wife's '97 which is quickly failing. Now thinking I might pay somebody to do this project instead.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:21 AM
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Shark Bait Shark Bait is offline
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I've got one to do, too. Yikes! I suppose putting it back in will be almost as fun?
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:51 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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I replaced my pump years ago and don't recall near the agony my brother went through. He's a skilled wrench and replaced the engine a few years back, so he didn't write this from the perspective of an amateur.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:56 AM
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Inukshuk Inukshuk is offline
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Seriously amusing to read. Not my experience at all. Did your brother remove the innermost plate? I don't see it in the photo. Maybe best not to ask.... (ask me why I know what that last little leftover o-ring is for....)

I have now rebuilt two pumps. Its easy breezy.

Since the pump is coming out anyway, if the line is not coming off easily, remove the pump first and the line later.

To remove the gear nut get two people. One holds the gear in heavy leather gloves while the other rattles off the nut with an impact. To remove the gear, use a rag to protect the teeth from the puller.

What is the "rear pump ring body"? Of its the outer spring wire that holds the back plate on (by the screwdriver tip in your photo), compress the back of PS pump with a large c-clamp and then its pretty easy to pick out. The "machined parts" comment makes me think its something else and inside - like the dark metal part by the red pen circle in your photo. To get that out I tapped the pump open-side down on the wooden workbench a few times till it and the vanes (inside their ring) slid out. Then, to get the last part out - similar to the dark metal part by the red pen circle in your photo - after the driveshaft was out I slammed it down on the same bench and it slid out easily.

The rubber band around the vanes is a great idea. I found them mostly stayed in due to the viscosity of my PS fluid. As long as one stays in you are fine because you can look at the orientation and wear marks on that one and put the rest back in the same way

Dave & Chris - lets get together and knock em out.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:29 AM
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Shark Bait Shark Bait is offline
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Cool. I've actually got a spare on the shelf to rebuild first. Sure. When is a good time?
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:18 PM
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Inukshuk Inukshuk is offline
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could be anytime. Lets arrange by e-mail and then we"ll post it here so anyone who wants can attend
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1993 FZJ80 "enhanced", re-built Engine, and prototype GOBI Stealth roof rack
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