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  #31  
Old 02-04-2013, 12:45 PM
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No help on the clunk but great videos - I should do that for my "tink" noise that has eluded me. Was it hot enough that you were running the AC? I assume that is just water drops from AC condenser in the last video.
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  #32  
Old 02-04-2013, 12:52 PM
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Tim, have you checked all your shock bolts yet. I forgot to tighten up one of my fronts once and it sounded just like that. The big collared washer was shifting front to back with direction change.
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  #33  
Old 02-04-2013, 01:46 PM
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I did check the shock bolts, grabbed each shock and tried to move them, etc. They're tight... and they were "professionally" installed as well, for the record, that place in Golden? And I'm sensitive to that one as well, after my first front axle service on the 80 years ago I forgot to tighten one of the sides, and coming down Jones Pass I thought I broke something major, actually tore it down to the bearing on the trail looking for bits. Turned out I didn't have a top shock nut, and the post was loose inside the hole there.

The water is actually coming out of my exhaust Jeff, good catch. This was yesterday, no AC. But there's a joint in the pipe where that water seems to be dripping out. Sensitive to scope creep, we're focusing on the clunk for the time being..

Having a hard time thinking this is CV-related. One of mine is new, or new within the past 2 years, and the other one looks to be in decent shape. Plus bad CV's make noise all the time, particularly when crawling, turning, etc. Plus, wouldn't the CV be out of the picture w/o a front driveshaft?

I'll tell you the question that I was thinking of in bed last night though- why does my front driveshaft have long splines to it? Beyond making it a little easier to install, what purpose do those splines serve? The front diff doesn't really move on IFS.
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  #34  
Old 02-04-2013, 02:52 PM
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Tim, I'm gonna say it's a bad slip yoke. Under greased or grease may not have gotten to the splines.
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  #35  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:08 PM
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i would think that the cv drive shaft will still turn being that the splined end is connected to the wheel bearing/hub, even if the ft drive shaft is disconnected.
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  #36  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:18 PM
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i may have missed it somewhere in this post but, what side do you think it is coming from? and what side is the older cv drive shaft on? could it be that the cv joint is under a load when starting out either in fwd or rev and alians it's self when driving? i don't know for sure, just thinking.
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  #37  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:53 PM
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Maybe I missed it......Did you say you removed the rear drive shaft, locked the front and still had the clunk?

Can you mount the GoPRO right on that cross member pointing directly at the slip yoke? I bet you'll see it bind just slightly, then release.

Or, can you reproduce the clunk by going forward and "panic braking" to a stop, and starting again? You'd have to really try and lock the brakes hard. If so, then that would be the slip yoke.
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  #38  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:56 PM
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I was able to replicate the clunk with no front driveshaft, but I didn't try it with no rear driveshaft. However it's pretty clear the clunk is coming from the front of the vehicle, on the driver's side, you can feel it in your feet. And with my longer commute now, I actually get to panic stop fairly frequently... and no, that won't produce a clunk. The only way to make it clunk again is to apply the brakes in reverse. Then you get 1 clunk, followed by a clunk the first time you stop moving forward again.
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  #39  
Old 02-04-2013, 04:19 PM
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I think it's worth removing the rear driveshaft just to rule that out. That's a lot easier than tearing the front end apart.
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  #40  
Old 02-04-2013, 04:25 PM
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I'm confident (doesn't mean I'm right ) it's the pads sliding within the calipers. See if you can replicate it on jacks with the wheels off the ground or off the truck. That may help a lot.
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