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  #71  
Old 02-21-2013, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by thefatkid View Post
Your "W" spring is on the wrong side of the caliper. Well that is just a guess because the picture is sideways. Going off what looks like the bleeder and the direction of the shock sticker your spring is on the wrong side. It needs to be on the bottom of the caliper holding the pads in the "up" position so they do not click. Now this would only be a click/pop not a clunk.
Yes you are correct the W springs are currently on the top, as they have been since these pads were installed. I'll move them to the bottom and see if that changes anything.
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  #72  
Old 02-23-2013, 11:45 AM
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Still clunks. In fact now that I've moved the W spring to the bottom, it clunks in both forward and reverse again. Current picture:
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  #73  
Old 02-23-2013, 12:13 PM
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Can you get to the bolt heads that fasten the rotor to the hub without taking the whole thing apart?
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  #74  
Old 02-23-2013, 01:16 PM
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You should remove those new pads and put them in an 80 and get rid of the hundy....clunker gone!
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  #75  
Old 02-23-2013, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
Can you get to the bolt heads that fasten the rotor to the hub without taking the whole thing apart?
It's bolted from the back side, so I'd be taking the hub off then resetting the wheel bearing. Not really a big deal, just messy and further into it than I was hoping. I may try 2 W springs just for kicks, now that I've got an extra... the fact that I was able to alter the clunk just by moving that spring has me second guessing diving further into the hub.
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  #76  
Old 02-24-2013, 08:53 AM
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OEM pads? or aftermarket? I still think sway bar bushing though.
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  #77  
Old 02-24-2013, 09:18 AM
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Oem.
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  #78  
Old 03-04-2013, 04:55 PM
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So while putting new brake pads & bits on the passenger side this weekend, I inspected the swaybar bushings and they appear to look pretty good. Plus this clunk is way too high pitched/distinct to be that, IMO, but I dunno. I am also now running dual W springs- both top & bottom, but that didn't seem to do anything.

I'm back to thinking CV. PN is 04427-60120 from Toyota, and you get 2 rubber boots, clamps for both boot ends, 2 tubes of grease, 2 new snap rings, and the large snap ring for inside the bell- all for $30. I've got a spare CV at home that's old, but was "working when removed," I'm going to dive into an R&R on that bad boy and get it ready for action. Then I'm going to dive in and swap the thing- something I need to learn how to do anyway. I'm also reading up on CV swaps over on Mud, beyond the right puller for the top ball joint and the right combination of prybars to get it out of the diff, this actually sounds kinda easy.. may be a while, but I'll post up with any progress.

Question: what tool do I need to effectively compress and clamp those OEM boot springs? they're not your typical hose clamp...

If anyone wants to hear it clunk, come out to the meeting Wednesday! There may even be an opportunity to jack up the front end...
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  #79  
Old 03-04-2013, 05:02 PM
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it's the high pitch noise that makes me thing CV. I am envisioning a ball bearing popping into place in that steel bell.
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  #80  
Old 03-04-2013, 05:58 PM
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I used these, Tim. http://www.pfranleds.com/other-parts/ My OEM ones leaked just a tiny bit, changed over to these and have been good ever since. They're just McMaster Carr smooth band, rolled edge clamps.

If for some reason you can't get them in time let me know. I keep a few extra just in case, I'll give you mine, then just replace my stash whenever you get new ones.

I'll have them at the meeting if you need.
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