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Old 01-28-2015, 09:22 PM
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CountryCity CountryCity is offline
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Default Amateur Hour Or Actual Issue?

My 1993 Pickup = Comfused.

Indy front axle with manually locking hubs.

Issue: 2WD works locked/unlocked, 4WD works unlocked in HI/LO. When I lock the hubs and drop it into 4, it engages, drive shafts spin, however about 2-3 feet from the spot I switched the front axle/hubs lock up on me and she almost stalls.

I've considered the ADD issue frequent with these trucks, but frankly I have no clue if my rig has it or not.

Bush league all star theory -- spin the fronts on some ice [I'm in Colorado] and hope it engages.

Pro Fix -- ?

Theories?

Also -- First actual post. Hi.
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:11 PM
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Hey welcome to the forum! I could be wrong, (often am... ) but with manual hubs I don't believe you have ADD? Do you hear or feel any binding when the front locks up? Have you tried going in reverse in 4WD?
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:21 PM
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Is the truck new to you? When was the last time you engaged 4wd?
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Old 01-28-2015, 10:23 PM
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Also no ADD with manual hubs.
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TLCA #23166

"Squishy"-1988 Red Hilux Standard frame, X-tra cab, locked F&R, 5.29's, 35" tires and a SAS. In Moab STOLEN

"Apollo"-1988 Hilux, 1999 3.4L, Supercharged, 2.1" URD pulley, URD 7th injector, 2 1/2" Magnaflow exhaust, TO DO: lift, locker.

"RedChili"-1987 Super Beast

"Did you know the IFS was designed by Hitler himself to make the life of 4WD owners tough? Yeah, it's true, he saw a vision of the Devil and he told him to do it." -DaveInDenver
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Old 01-28-2015, 11:19 PM
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@Squishy I thought I was right about the hubs, no ADD. Relatively new to me however I've been off road in it nearly every time I drove it with no prior issues. Last 4WD was just a light mud run about two months ago before I moved to CO from CA.

@Nakman Reverse 4WD works flawlessly. Backed all the way around the garages in 4WD without issue, forwards does feel like a bind. It feels like it tightens as it rolls forward until it tries to lock up and stall out. Luckily I realized that before I killed it though.

Thanks for the warm welcome!
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:55 AM
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If it came from the factory with manual hubs it would not have ADD. But it is a V6 truck, many of which have ADD, and it's not difficult to unbolt the hub drive plates and add hubs, so anything's possible by previous owners. It's not rare that someone puts on manual hubs and just plumbs the ADD system to stay on all the time rather than doing the right thing, which is to also switch the extension tube.

It's easy to tell. Is there a straight tube on the driver's side of the front axle or is there an actuator with tubes & wires coming out on the front (behind the skid plate)? Top is regular manual axle and bottom is the extension tube with the ADD actuator.

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The problem sounds like to me the ADD system, but if it's not there, it's not there.

If you do have regular manual hubs, unlock them both with the transfer case in 2WD and all the wheels on the ground. See if the front drive shaft spins or not. It should turn freely.

Next, put the t-case in 4WD, low or high doesn't matter. With the hubs unlocked it should not spin.

Put the t-case back in 2WD and lock both hubs. Driveshaft should not spin.

If that works, unlock just one hub and try again, It should spin but the axle on the side you unlocked should spin backwards. IOW, if you turn the driveshaft clockwise the hub should turn anti-clockwise, like it's in reverse. If that works, lock the hub again and try the same test with the other one.

If all that works then it's probably not the front end. But I'd guess you'll find something is off, maybe a broken hub or the CV axle. When's the last time you serviced the front end? I wonder if there's no grease in the bronze bushing the axle is bound in the spindle.

Next step would be to lift the back end off the ground (or remove the rear driveshaft) so you can see if there's a problem with the t-case. It's possible that the front drive in the t-case is broken.

You haven't switched either the front or rear diff recently? This is what would happen if the gear ratios weren't the same, too.
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Last edited by DaveInDenver; 01-29-2015 at 06:35 AM.
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  #7  
Old 01-29-2015, 07:34 AM
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Could it be very poorly matched front to rear gear ratios?

You could remove the rear drive shaft to test the front independently.

You could open the diffs and count teeth to see if you have matched gears or not.
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:56 AM
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I would agree with the gear ratios being different. It didn't make sense but reverse seemed to work and it only bound going forward (according to the guy I worked with). Once he re-geared, it went away.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:21 AM
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If Countrycity has wheeled his rig before, I seriously doubt the gears are different. Unless he regeared in between his last time wheeling in CA and moving to CO. I'm leaning more to DaveinDenver. Sounds like a t case or front end problem.
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:51 AM
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I do not see the ADD system. If the system has failed, you would not have 4wd, but it wouldn't bind. You would just send all of the power to the driver side which is uncoupled. The only way it would bind is if the shift collar has disintegrated, which, I would think, would make a lot of noise in 4wd with the hubs unlocked, and would still try to bind with the hubs locked in 2wd.

The missmatched gear set would make perfect sense if someone swapped manual hubs in and did the diff at the same time, but its weird it works in reverse. You should bind up in both directions. Though it sounds like Root has seen the same thing with mismatched gears. This is exactly what I thought of when I first read the post, and I think is the most likely scenario.

By your signature, I assume you have a large bracket lift under the truck, so spotting the ADD/non ADD diff will be easy. If you had ADD, but now have a non ADD diff, you should be able to see the vacuum switches (one blue, one orange) under the hood. If they swapped, it could be you still have the switches. Hard to say though. They should be on the passenger side, if I remember correctly.

I would also look at your driveshaft angles. With a single transfercase, you could have a pretty steep angle on at the ujoint on the diff, or CV at the tcase end. If there is a loose bracket or mounting point on the diff, having the hubs locked could induce enough rotation on the diff to change the angles, although I would think this is unlikely because forward would cause the diff flange to rotate up in the front.

One final option I can think of is bad bearings in the diff. If either the carrier or pinion bearings are shot, going in one direction will cause the pinion to plunge into the diff carrier, locking it up, whereas the opposite direction would cause the pinion to pull away, and allow free movement. I think this is unlikely, though, because like a busted ADD collar, you should hear a lot of noise. It would be worse in 4wd, hubs locked, but should also be apparent with the hubs locked in 2wd, just less so. I'd look at pulling the front cover off the diff as a last resort, to check the carrier bearings, if none of the other tests check out. Pinion bearings should be evident from wiggling the driveshaft, you'd have a lot of play at the diff.
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