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  #41  
Old 04-09-2013, 10:38 AM
Firetacoma Firetacoma is offline
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I have thought about just letting it rip and seeing what happens. That would at least give me a year to get my ducks in a row to get some stuff installed...

In general how thorough is the visual inspection?

My father in law has a cabin in teller county. That's my plan c.

I'd like to get it back to near stock just so I don't have to worry every year if this will be the year I draw the short stick and have to scramble for parts. But not having to do it in panic mode will be much cheaper!
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  #42  
Old 04-09-2013, 11:41 AM
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subzali subzali is offline
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From reports of others, the main thing that is looked for in the visual inspection is the air pump and air rail.

But some have gotten through smog without even that.

Regarding using '76 or '78 smog components, let me share with you what I have and then I'll pontificate

I have a '77 Federal emissions package, but I'm running a '78 Federal carb with a '79 distributor. My FJ40 *seems* to run fine, *seems* to have good power, *seems* to burn clean, etc. It passed the tailpipe and visual in 2005 and I got collectors plates so I haven't had to do anything more. In 2005, there were vacuum ports that were plugged (unused on my '78 carb and '79 dizzy) and went unnoticed during the inspection.

A note on distributors (copied from MUD):
•1975 & early 1976: small distributor, completely redesigned, very good quality points distributor. Vacuum retard.

•Late 1976 & 1977: Same, but w/ vac advance

•1978: redesigned w/ Med. size screwdown, waterproof cap, electronic ignition. Vacuum advance & retard.

•1979 - 1980: dual diaphragm advance. One big advance stage for normal operation, small second stage for extra advance at hi-altitude

A note on carburetors:
Different year carbs have different ports for vacuum control (somewhat dependent on distributor needs, whether vacuum retard or vacuum advance), the actual port drilling locations may change depending on what vacuum signal is needed. Also, items like the power valve have different controls (external or internal vacuum source) depending on year. Starting in 1978 a HIC vacuum port was added as well as a bowl vent. On mine those are plugged.




Having said all of that, obviously you can get by with mix-matching parts (like mine has-BTW I inherited it like this). But I can only believe that unless an informed decision is made about which parts to use then some goofy things could happen.

There is also a consideration with the computers and wiring harness connections. The VSVs and computers do look a little different from '76-'78, so you would have to figure out how to accommodate those differences.

And then finally there is the little item where your hood and build date says that you have a 1977 emissions system, so if you change to another year then that could confuse someone down the road. '76 would technically be illegal, but '78 would possibly just confuse someone. And then to get a total '78 system you have to figure out how to do the HIC vent and bowl vent connections. It just kinda opens a can of worms.

You should probably try going to a mom and pop emissions place first (if they still exist), and see if you can piece the system together over the next year (your emissions will be annual with a '77).
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  #43  
Old 04-09-2013, 05:21 PM
Firetacoma Firetacoma is offline
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Good advice and info.

I tried to go get a test today (to at least get a baseline and see what happened) but they apparently had a snow day... As did I!

I think I'm going to stick with my semi-original plan of getting the air rail and smog pump in and then seeing what happens.

I also bought junk today to replace the thermostat (runs cold), fix my front oil leak, and replace all fluids and filters. Basically base lining the rig... The PO used it only for elk hunting so it had sat quite a bit which can always be a bit scary.
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  #44  
Old 04-09-2013, 05:53 PM
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baja1d baja1d is offline
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I think I'm going to stick with my semi-original plan of getting the air rail and smog pump in and then seeing what happens.


^^^^ I know that I have this stuff for both a '76 & '86 2F


.
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  #45  
Old 04-09-2013, 08:52 PM
Firetacoma Firetacoma is offline
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Awesome. According to specter, the 76 pump and rail stuff will fit a 77.
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  #46  
Old 05-10-2013, 09:19 PM
Firetacoma Firetacoma is offline
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So, I tried the lazy method and went without installing the air pump or rail. I thought I was in the clear when the guy hooked it up and began the test. I got the results back:fail.

All of the emissions were in spec, only failed due to missing components. I think this is crap, if a vehicle can pass the standards without it, why does it need it?!

Anyways, I went right home and popped I the air rail I picked up from Travis. I have 3 pumps to pick from and am only missing 1 belt to have the air injection system in place.

Just thought I'd share my experience, some of them do know what to look for!
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  #47  
Old 05-14-2013, 02:10 PM
Firetacoma Firetacoma is offline
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Well, I threw on the air rail and pump, finally got the right sized belt and took it back for a re-test yesterday.

They remembered the truck and I could see them looking it over extra well to make sure I had put the junk back on. They seemed to be happy. The lady started doing the test with the magic RPM detector (seriously, how does the one work where they don't attach to the spark plug wire?) and wasn't getting a good signal.

She switched over to the lead on the #1 wire and was having trouble getting the idle low enough for the test. Finally she just gave up. No asking me if there was a trick or anything, just said it was failing because it idled too high. I not-so-calmly explained that it was a 35 year old vehicle. It has a mechanical connection to the gas pedal and if you gently pull back on said pedal with your toe, the idle drops to a nice low 600ish.

She said she'd see what they could do.

Another dude comes over, I explain it to him. He says, "show me." Fair enough. We fire it up, I toe up on the pedal and the RPMS drop and stay low. He says he'd give it one more shot, if it didn't work they'd have to fail it. ok!

5 minutes later I was rolling out with a pass stamp! WOOHOO!

Thanks to everyone on here for your suggestions and parts. I'm sure it won't be the last time but at least now I can get plates and drive it.
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