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Old 04-10-2013, 12:01 PM
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PabloCruise PabloCruise is offline
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Default FJ40 Hardtop Gasket - Best Source?

Still working on painting the 40:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...t-new-tub.html
We started thinking about painting the top and whether it was worth it to take the top apart - unbolt the side panels from the fiberglass cap.
There is the gasket that goes between the side panels and fiberglass cap, and I am not sure about the best source for this?
In this SOR diagram I am talking about #5:
OEM price is $339 - I am surprised to see that.
Does anyone know if this is still available from Toyota?
Is the price actually over $300?
Would I be able to re-use my existing gasket?
Thanks. Any links to good hardtop rebuild threads are appreciated.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:20 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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When I separated my top mine ripped. I am not surprised to see Toyota's price above $300 for that piece. Some folks on MUD have been saying that the bottom seal for a garage door works well, but I can't see how that would be possible with the curves you have to deal with.

I would take the top apart though, rust can form under the fiberglass cap.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:24 PM
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BTW, having more hands taking the top apart may save the gasket. It's just old and brittle from age.

Personally, I would look at Toyota, SOR or CCOT for a new one if you need it. Maybe Cruiser Outfitters or Cruisercorps, but I'm not sure what they carry for restoration type stuff.
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:40 PM
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Thanks Matt.
I imagine mine could be brittle.
Good to know that yours tore (I don't mean it is good that yours tore)
Also good to know about rust - ultimately it will make for a better repaint.
Still feeling a little sticker shock about a $300 gasket though...
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabloCruise View Post
Thanks Matt.
I imagine mine could be brittle.
Good to know that yours tore (I don't mean it is good that yours tore)
Also good to know about rust - ultimately it will make for a better repaint.
Still feeling a little sticker shock about a $300 gasket though...
Yep, that's why I reused mine even though it's now 2 or 3 pieces. If/when I ever do what you're doing it will be replaced with new. For a trail truck it's been fine.
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:34 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Skip the $60 CCoT aftermarket gasket. Very unwieldy and no glue of any sort would stick to it - almost pure evil after I fought with it. I had to remove my rooftop 3x to get the *%^%&$% CCoT headliner to stick to any glue I tried, so I had extra joy in dealing with the gasket.

A garage door seal could work, but it would require careful notching and clamping along the way to fit the roof profile. If you can save the OEM gasket, try to do so - it's wonderfully engineered.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:50 PM
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Lift the top a little at a time and use a screwdriver inserted 90 degrees (pointed inside from the outside) and slide it along to seperate the gasket from the sides. same to seperate from the top. scrub it up with westleys bleche white and a stiff nylon brush, coat with decent rubber protectant. i didn't glue mine on, just started all the bolts loosely until i was sure it was set and watched it when i was tightening down. the gasket has little ribs in it to keep the moisture out, so it doesnt' need glue and i didn't want something that might suck the moisture from the rubber.

definitely scrub it up tho, it will make it nice and pliable. when they get stiff and crunchy, they will leak. had that issue in my 71, water was pouring down the corner windows. cleaned that gasket and reassembled and never had an issue again.
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:07 PM
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Awesome. Thanks everyone, I will try the tear down w/o a replacement.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:42 PM
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I got a complete gasket on mud that was pliable and in good shape for $35 off mud last year. Just FYI
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:53 PM
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Jenny Cruiser Jenny Cruiser is offline
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I'll be taking mine apart soon as well. Anxious to see what it looks like. The consensus on mud is to bite the bullet and buy new OEM. With the discount it's still over $300 IIRC. For everything I need I think Dan quoted me over $1,400. I've already got some bits though. Otherwise it's north of $1,600 to do a complete replacement of all the rubber bits.
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