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  #61  
Old 07-02-2014, 01:32 PM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Been a little while, but I've made some more progress on the truck.

I found with the factory cup holders, the shifter did not allow for a full water bottle to be in the forward cup holder position. Fortunately, Marlin Crawler has a solution for that:





I very highly recommend this product. Really shortened the throw (as they claim), and it makes a huge difference in the usability of the center console area.

Second, I installed an M8000, and a set of Rigid Dually lights.





I have these wired to my high beams, so when the switch is on, they will turn off when I go to low beam. This way, I can use them out on the highway with ease, which is my primary use for them. I find the stock high beams to be lacking when out on long stretches of highway, especially in Utah. These improve the range quite a bit, and the color really helps to highlight the eyes of animals far in advance, which gives me more time for braking.

This spring, after several years of saving Amazon gift cards, I was able to get a fridge for my truck, something I've wanted for a very long time. To accommodate the fridge, I put in a shelf/slide system. Sadly, I am not wild about my first attempt:





The idea was to make the truck able to both carry camping gear safely, and make it quick to pack/unpack.

While this does allow for everything to be safely strapped down, I find the hassle of getting this in and out of the truck to be a ROYAL pain. It takes 20 minutes just to get the whole thing in and assembled, and same for the reverse at the end of the trip.

I've had it out twice now, and while I like the overall idea, this just isn't cutting it. Besides, as it stands, I am still going to have to put things on the roof if I take more than one other person with me (my wife and I have to put our day packs in the backseat next to the dog).

I also used rather low grade plywood. This is not ideal, as it was warped, and very rough. I plan to make version two, once I have decided how best to correct the shortcomings of this design.

Lastly, I fabled some sliders up. They are at the powder coaters as of now. Very simple, and fairly low profile. I did not want them to stick out very far, as this truck is still a DD, and I also don't like the look of large sliders standing out. My old 4runner had every more tucked in sliders, and they work very well.







More on those when I get them back.
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  #62  
Old 07-02-2014, 01:46 PM
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With 6 pages of rear bumper coverage, I'm wondering where the documentation is on the custom, 1st gen 4Runner grill mod? I dig it!

Of all the things you do to the truck that your wife will care less about, she'll love the fridge. It's an incredibly handy camping tool....
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  #63  
Old 07-02-2014, 03:32 PM
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LOL. Yeah, I guess I thought I'd just keep the old thread alive, rather than start anew.

The grill is just the Satoshi mod with a nod to the first gen with the cross braces and the first gen emblem.

If you notice, I also have the first gen "4Wheel Drive 4Runner" badge on the back, and first gen shift knobs too. I miss my old first gen.

Yeah, I think she'd like a RTT better (comfy), but thats a ways off. She does like the chilled wine that isn't soaked in water
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  #64  
Old 07-03-2014, 11:13 AM
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A couple of other modifications that I've found are really very useful, and may help others:

The first was my quest to stop the "wobble" in my front end. After lifting the truck, the steering wheel would vibrate horribly, especially on braking.

The PO had installed some crappy "lifetime" brake pads, which, as we all know, are perfect for warping rotors. So, I replaced the rotors, and pads, with OEM stuff. This fixed the braking problem, but not the wobble on the highway when driving normally.

So, naturally, the next thing I thought of was the rack. I replaced it with a Toyota rack, though I'm pretty sure they have these remanufactured these days. I also replaced the outer tie rods at this time, as the new rack comes with new inners. In addition, I bought a polyurethane bushing kit from Toytec lifts for the rack, and installed all of those at the same time.



Not a very good picture, but the bushings are all poly now.

Anyway, the wobble was still there. After lots of reading, and a trip back to the alignment place, I found that my caster was at about 0, which is out of spec, and that this was a common problem with lifted 3rd gens (and it seems, newer tacos, as much of my reading centered around the 05+ taco's).

So, I started to look at upper control arms. I initially purchased a set of light racing arms, as they seemed perfect with their adjustability, stock style ball joint, and the price is pretty good. However, once I got them, I decided I didn't like the adjustability after all. The problem was, everything is held in place with a large nut and bolt, which seemed to me would need constant supervision to ensure that it didn't move. I didn't want to hassle with it, so I returned them. Instead, I went with the Icons.



I chose these over other uniball style arms because of the ability to add the top cap (seen in the picture). In my reading, I noticed that many folks were concerned about dirt building up in the uniball and causing premature failure. The top is the place where dirt collects the most easily, so these seemed perfect with the caps providing protection and keeping dirt from accumulating in the well of the uniball. Time will tell if this works or not.

At the same time I did the upper arms, I also replaced the lower ball joints with OEM. They were not loose, but I've seen enough horror stories that I thought it was worth doing.

The upper arms have 2 deg of castor, enabling all alignment specs to be set to factory, and this, thankfully, fixed the wobble! The steering wheel is smooth and solid like it was when the truck was stock. Finally.

The second modification I found helpful I found online. This was for powering my fridge. Later model third gen 4runners started coming with a power outlet in the cargo area. However, this is accessory switched, and the fridge needs full time power. Someone online had the quick, cheap, thought of simply removing the relay under the hood, and putting a jumper on the hot leads:





This works great. So far, I've only had the truck off for about 24 hours with the fridge on and keeping food cold, but there has been no issue with power drain. This ARB unit is very efficient.

The last mod is pretty basic, but we'll see. My M8000 came with steel cable. After seeing lots of info from Bill Burke, and talking to others, I decided to give synthetic line a go. I got the Warn Spydura rope, 100ft, so we'll see how well it does. I used the wire cable several times this past winter, and it was already kinked in several places. I have not used the synthetic line yet, but we'll see how it holds up over time compared to something like Viking or Masterpull.



The rope does fill the drum completely, though I think when wound under load, it will compress more. I also weighed the difference between the wire rope with roller fairlead, and the synthetic line and hawse, and it was about 22 lbs. More if you get a lightweight thimble instead of the hook. Still, not a huge weight savings, but certainly nicer to handle!
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  #65  
Old 07-03-2014, 11:13 AM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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The last "fix" I don't have any shots of.

Like many IFS drivers, once the truck was lifted, the front CV boots tore. I, like other third gen 4runner/first gen taco owners, replaced the axles and had a bad, leaking passenger side diff seal.

I replaced with OEM remans, and put in probably 5 different seals, all to no avail. After reading online, I tried the Two Seal approach, essentially putting in two of the passenger side diff seals in, as there is plenty of room for them. This worked, and I no longer leak gear oil from the passenger side tube.

I know others have been able to get brand new axles, instead of remans, but, 1. they are pricey, and 2., it seems to be very difficult to get a hold of a new axle any more. Most dealers will tell you they don't exist. This fix seems to work well, and saves the hassle and expense of having to track down a new axle.
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  #66  
Old 07-03-2014, 11:45 AM
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great thread and updates!
The truck looks awesome!
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  #67  
Old 07-03-2014, 12:06 PM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Thanks!
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Baby Beast -1987 4Runner SR5-Gone, but not forgotten

Generation Dead
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  #68  
Old 07-03-2014, 03:42 PM
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Rezarf Rezarf is offline
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Man, I wished I had crawled all over it this morning now Isaac, looks really good man. Everything is thought out and well executed. Stoked to see you sliders on... are you going to weld them in place or ???
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  #69  
Old 07-03-2014, 03:46 PM
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Well, the rear is empty right now Drew, the slide and shelving is designed to come in and out to facilitate use of the back end for hauling stuff (house projects, whatever). So, you didn't miss anything

Yup, the sliders will weld on. I asked the powdercoater to not coat two inches up on each leg, so I can weld them to the scab plates, and gusset them.

Thanks man!
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