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  #31  
Old 08-23-2013, 02:42 PM
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Red_Chili Red_Chili is offline
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Originally Posted by DenCo40 View Post
I see that one all the time..Singing hills road?
Sorry, missed your post. Yup. I guess it's been there for a while. I saw his original price, way too high.

It was waiting to come home with me.
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  #32  
Old 08-23-2013, 04:22 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Yes on the 12v conversion - My Farmall Super A started ok with 6v, but my Ford 9N was a disaster. It was *so* nice with 12v - quick cranking, instant starting, cheap lights and cheap 12v car batteries. It was cheaper to convert it to 12v than it was to buy a good 6v tractor battery!
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  #33  
Old 08-26-2013, 06:53 AM
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I'm finding that someone in this tractor's life was a bit hamfisted. The rear bearing or seal was replaced on the left halfshaft, and there are beat marks on the shrink collar bearing retainer. That has to have been a LONG time ago, because this thing's been leaking gear oil onto the rear brakes for a LONG time. Even found a piece of steel resting next to the tapered roller bearing... doesn't quite look like a pinion tooth or spider, but it is a chunk of something. No indication that anything is [still] broken, so I am chalking it up to the sledgehammer mechanic who messed with it a couple decades ago.

Anywho, the real fix for the leaking axle seal is a clever arrangement called a "sure seal", that covers the bearing and fits perfectly into the backing plate/bearing mount. Rather than rely on gear oil to lube the bearing, the user now packs it with grease and calls it done. Sure easier than replacing the OTHER axle seal. The grease should stay put rather well.

The halfshaft and diff, when assembled together, are running on tapered rollers, with preload set by shims in the end of the trumpet housing. The axle/halfshaft is a precision length, and it doesn't free float in the splines, but rests on the diff in such a way as to determine the distance between bearings. They say the shims seal, but I put a thin coat of FIPG on them just to ensure they do. No idea how to TELL how much preload is on the bearings, so I will just trust and reassemble. Darn robust assembly. Makes Toyota rear axles look flimsy.

The brake shoes cleaned up quite nicely in a tub of brake cleaner, after I let Aspen Park Auto have a go with the parts in their cleaner - for which they charged me NOTHING. Love those guys. The washer didn't finish the job but it removed a couple decades of caked oil and grease, making my job way easier. And I got a free coke while I waited.

So Big O is replacing the antique tire missing a couple chunks today, and it all goes back together over the next couple of days. A flakey ignition switch is, I think, to blame for some intermittent hard starting issues. $23. So I should be able to go AND stop shortly! LOL.
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  #34  
Old 08-26-2013, 07:30 AM
J Kimmel J Kimmel is offline
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who is putting the turbo on
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  #35  
Old 08-26-2013, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
Is the carbide for lights? Can you still buy a can of carbide for use in mining lamps?
Some people still use them for caving. You can (and most people do now) use electric lights but carbide lamps just work and the heat they produce is a good way to keep your hands warm. They stopped using them in mining a long time ago (as in like 50 years ago) because of the risk of explosions. But carbide lamps can take a lot of abuse and still work, so there are retro grouches that make a solid argument for them. A can of carbide would last you a lifetime and someone who bought something that size probably did so to divide it up between all his climbing buddies. Used to pay about $10 for a small tin of it and that would take care of a year or two of caving. The Englewood Army-Navy used to have carbide, at least a few years not sure if they do anymore.
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  #36  
Old 08-27-2013, 09:09 AM
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Calcium carbide is a good thing to add to your survival kit... as an alternate fire starter. Wetness of course increases the release of acetylene, which can save your life if it is wet and you are hypothermic.
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  #37  
Old 08-27-2013, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J Kimmel View Post
who is putting the turbo on
The valves are dime-sized so that might be a terrible waste... LOL

The TE20 (nearly identical, TE stands for Tractor - England, while TO stands for Tractor - Overseas, and was built in Detroit except for the very first ones, and TEA stands for Tractor - English MFG for Australia I guess) used the same block as the early Triumph sportscars built by Standard - Triumph in Coventry (complete with wet replaceable liners) so you could fit the Triumph head in theory.

Dunno why you would want to. Kinda like that V6 turbo Scandinavian tractor - completely useless now.

Got the brakes all cleaned up and back together, tonight I'll find out if they work once I get the new tire on. Stopping is good...
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Heb Dduw, heb ddim; Duw a digon
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  #38  
Old 08-27-2013, 10:01 AM
J Kimmel J Kimmel is offline
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nothing useless about excessive boosted power
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  #39  
Old 08-29-2013, 02:30 PM
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It absolutely is, if you spend most of your time at 1200 RPM!
Graded the driveway yesterday as a proof of concept. It did a FINE job with the rear blade. Of course, my wife noticed that the driveway is now extremely dusty....


So soon I need to order up some roadbase. But the tractor proved it will pay for itself in short order.

And oh yeah, the brakes work now...
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Heb Dduw, heb ddim; Duw a digon
Abnormally aspirated
KDěRCH
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I'm that gun-totin', farm-raised, evangelical, pro-environment, OHV ridin'/drivin', Southern civil rights pro-labor Liberal yo' momma told you couldn't possibly exist.
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  #40  
Old 09-01-2013, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Calcium carbide is a good thing to add to your survival kit... as an alternate fire starter. Wetness of course increases the release of acetylene, which can save your life if it is wet and you are hypothermic.
It is also a wonderful way to power your potato cannon...

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