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Old 08-07-2013, 10:38 AM
Dirt Claude Dirt Claude is offline
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Default Advance Adapters or Marks 4wd V8 Adapter?

I’m in the middle of a frame off restore on my 72’ FJ40 and I’ve come to a dilemma on which adapter to use with a mild SBC 350 & Toy 4spd. I’ve currently have both adapters in my possession, but can’t decide which one to use?

I like the AA kit as I can place the motor wherever I want. The downside is that I’ll need to shorten or lengthen the drive shafts, fab a new rear crossmember to support the tranny/transfercase, and possibly bend or modify the 4spd Toyota shifter handle.

What I like about the Marks kit is that it keeps the tranny/transfercase in the stock position which eliminates the need to modify the driveshafts, it also has rear tranny mounts coming off the bellhousing and would eliminate the need to fab a new rear crossmember. The biggest downside I see is the engine being pushed forward more which makes it a little tighter for the fan and radiator, not sure which kind of fan I’ll be running yet? I’ve also heard some folks had vibration issues with the Marks adapter.

If you owned the both, which one would you run?
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Last edited by Dirt Claude; 08-07-2013 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:45 AM
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If I had both and either would fit (shifter didn't hit dash and engine didn't hit firewall) I'd choose the AA Bellhousing.

I run the marks and it has lots of parts and isn't super easy to service. The clutch is kinda buried in there. Also I had a vibration issue due to the spud shaft not engaging into the pilot bearing all the way that it took me 50k miles to figure out.

Otherwise it si nice because the tranny/t case dont move, but that is really the least of your concerns when doing a swap at least IMHOP.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:27 AM
Dirt Claude Dirt Claude is offline
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Do you recall what you ended up doing to resolve the vibration issue Marco?
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:38 AM
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I ended up having to have a small spacer machined (Thanks Bruce) that pushed the pilot bearing out so it had full engagement with the spud shaft, and well ad spacing the spud shaft out from the tranny permanently so it wouldn't float back and forth too much.

In the earlier designs that used a pilot bushing instead of a bearing apparently the spud shaft would get forced forward during running and chew up the bushing. That was another problem they had.

It was more of an issue with my setup since I have the 5.3 block (vortec) which had a slightly different spacing of the crank vs. the back of the block and the marks adapter was actually designed for the older 350 blocks. If you do use the Marks kit, i'd measure everything before calling it a day to make sure the sound shaft and pilot have the right fit, also measure and set the throwout fork/bearing sleeve correctly. Lots of folks struggle with that.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:52 AM
Dirt Claude Dirt Claude is offline
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I do have an older block, so if I end up going that route it may be ok as far as vibrations are concerned. Thanks for the info!
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:57 AM
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from what i measured the numbers didn't even work out for an older block.... the length discrepancy just isn't as great.

bottom line is that the spud shaft can float around a lot and with the clutch disk on it it can get off center and vibrate pretty badly.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:46 PM
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I've had 2 Cruisers with SBC and the OEM 4-speed. Personally I would not use the OEM trans if I were to ever do it again. I'd use something with an overdrive. Personally it would be an auto. Just my .02.

Both mine used the AA stuff.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:32 AM
Dirt Claude Dirt Claude is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbet View Post
I've had 2 Cruisers with SBC and the OEM 4-speed. Personally I would not use the OEM trans if I were to ever do it again. I'd use something with an overdrive. Personally it would be an auto. Just my .02.

Both mine used the AA stuff.
I have no doubt there are better engine/tranny/tcase combos out there than what I'm going to be running. I appreciate the suggestion!

The problem is that I'm trying to complete this build on a somewhat tight budget. I pretty much already have everything I'll need to complete this swap including an extra H42 and 4spd Tcase, incase I grenade mine. The thought of changing directions right now kind of bums me out as I really want to get the FJ40 back on the road. I've also already rebuilt the tcase and cleaned up and resealed the tranny. The cruiser originally had a SBC & 3spd tranny, using the 4spd with synchronized gears will be a step up in itself.

The main reason I got this FJ40 was so that I could teach my son basic auto mechanics, he'll be 15 in a couple of weeks and getting his permit soon. We're both having a great time with this build so far.

The FJ will primarily be used for street cruising and mild wheeling. No long highway travels where overdrive would be real beneficial. I've got a feeling this won't be my last FJ40 build.
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Last edited by Dirt Claude; 08-09-2013 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 08-09-2013, 10:33 AM
Dirt Claude Dirt Claude is offline
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I think I've decided to go the AA route and just fab a new tcase/tranny crossmember instead of using the AA propeller style mount. It's sound like a simpler setup.
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Last edited by Dirt Claude; 08-09-2013 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 08-09-2013, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Claude View Post
I think I've decided to go the AA route and just fab a new tcase/tranny crossmember instead of using the AA propeller style mount. It's sound like a simpler setup.
I personally think that's a good decision.

Fabbing mounts won't be too tough and you would have probably had to do driveshaft work no matter what anyways...

Make sure you study driveshaft angles and how they work before setting the engine position. I didn't understand that when i did my swap and had to redo things.
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