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Old 03-03-2015, 10:51 PM
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Default green goop in coolant hose and reservoir

I replaced the starter and then thermostat on my daughters 1997 camry 2.2 4cyl with 232k miles..

I had noticed the system was not pulling coolant from the overflow tank or pushing so i pulled the hose and tank.

The hose was 100% clogged like i could not get any air yhrough it. I eventually got hard chunks and softer chunks of green goop out of the hose. There was a small amount of sediment in the reservoir..but the majority was locked solid in the hose..

is this some kind of head gasket detioriation like we hear about?

Or what could it be?

No evidence of anything in the oil or loss of fluids really..car runs fine no smoke..
replaced thermostat cause car ran cold not hot. .it fixed tgat problem...it has never got hot that i know of...

any thoughts?

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Last edited by simps80; 03-03-2015 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:41 PM
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Did you replace the coolant last or have any idea when it was done previously? This looks like when you mix Toyota Red with standard issue green Prestone, it makes a green-gray sludge. Usually it's because someone uses regular green to top off with Red already in the system or switches between the two without doing a good flush first.
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:46 PM
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No atlr did the timing belt about 2 months ago..
Thats good to know
Maybe i should just flush the whole thing...
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:50 PM
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Jesse knows what he's doing, so that wouldn't be my first suspicion, then.
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:18 AM
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What is the current consensus on which coolant?
It used to be hard core toyota red only..every thread was red onky
Then i remember more talk about toyota red not being necessary???
Maybe i will flush the system cause i don't know the whole history of thus car we bought it from the neighbor about a year ago.

What is everyone using now?
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Old 03-04-2015, 07:13 AM
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I still use Long Life Red exclusively, but I think most (or all?) manufacturers have switched to some variant of the low pH HOAT, OAT or silica-free coolants so there may be other options now. There are pros and cons for each type but the key is to never mix the types. What's confusing is that over the past few years you can't rely on the color anymore, there are green OATs that when mixed with traditional green will give the same result as mixing Toyota Red and regular green.

To confuse matters even more, Dex-Cool was blamed for causing premature gasket failures in GM cars a few years ago. The silicates are said to wear out water pumps sooner and coolants that rely on them do require replacement more often. OTOH, traditional coolants are tolerant of a wider range of water chemistry (I only use distilled water with Red). However, once the silicates drop out of the solution there is no other corrosion inhibitors, which is critical with dissimilar metals of an iron block and aluminum heads. Using OATs is better in that respect since the chemistry works differently.

So there is no one right answer.

http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/ima...-%20Z-1217.pdf

http://www.recochem.com/us/media/upl...ide_012814.pdf
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Old 03-04-2015, 09:44 AM
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My Tahoe and my dad's Sierra had the Dex-Cool failures. The best way to tell if that was an issue was to look at the radiator cap. On mine, the paraffin? (at least that is what it looked like to me) clogged the entire tank. You had to poke a hole in it if you wanted to check or fill the radiator.

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Old 03-04-2015, 12:10 PM
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Back to the Camry, if the coolant in the radiator/engine is new and good from the recent t-betl change, I would clean out the overflow bottle and refill with whatever's in the system, and then monitor the condition of what's in the overflow bottle for a few months and see if goop returns.

Maybe install a new radiator cap, if you suspect the old one is ancient. If you see weirdness, perhaps do a compression test or cooling system pressure test to check for a bad head gasket. Camrys with that number of miles could be due for a head gasket.
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