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Old 10-12-2013, 11:48 AM
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MDH33 MDH33 is offline
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Default FJ60 Charging issues

hoping someone can guide me on this one.

85 FJ60. Dual batteries with a National Luna (NL) solenoid. I noticed last night that the batteries are reading low on the in-cab NL voltage meter and that the dash voltage meter is only reading 8-9 Volts with the engine running. I connected a volt meter directly to the starting battery and it is reading about 12.3V and there doesn't seem to be any change with RPM increase. the dash voltage meter shows slight fluctuation when I turn headlights, fan, etc on. I pulled the alternator and took it to NAPA and it tested fine. Fuses looked fine too. Stumped. Not sure where to look next? I am going to try to disconnect the second battery and solenoid to eliminate that from the system and see what happens. Anything else I should be looking at?
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:58 AM
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With the engine running, check voltage at the back of the alternator, Martin. Should see 13V or better at idle with 14V+ at engine speed above 1200 rpm.
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:05 PM
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Check the fusible links at the battery/harness. The connection s can get old & crusty and affect charging. I just fixed one of mine!
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Abe
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:08 PM
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With the engine running, check voltage at the back of the alternator, Martin. Should see 13V or better at idle with 14V+ at engine speed above 1200 rpm.
Thanks Steve. On the back of the alternator, there is a plug and a 10mm stud/nut. Do I test it off that stud (+) and ground from the battery? Electrically challenged I be.
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by gr8fulabe View Post
Check the fusible links at the battery/harness. The connection s can get old & crusty and affect charging. I just fixed one of mine!
HTH
Abe
Thanks Abe, I'll check those too.
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:12 PM
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Thanks Steve. On the back of the alternator, there is a plug and a 10mm stud/nut. Do I test it off that stud (+) and ground from the battery? Electrically challenged I be.
The little stud and a good ground anywhere. The fusible links check is also a good idea, as mentioned, as they do fail and you can't really see any problem.
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:44 PM
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I disconnected the second battery and solenoid and no change. Still reading 8-9V on the dash voltmeter, 12V at the battery.

Should the wire to the stud on the alternator be disconnected to test? With it connected, I'm getting 12V with the engine running. Not sure how to test the fusible link, but they look solid and terminals clean. Stalls when I disconnect it.
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MDH33 View Post
I disconnected the second battery and solenoid and no change. Still reading 8-9V on the dash voltmeter, 12V at the battery.

Should the wire to the stud on the alternator be disconnected to test? With it connected, I'm getting 12V with the engine running. Not sure how to test the fusible link.
Yes, the wire should be connected to test the alt output. It's the charge wire to the battery. I have to disagree with NAPA's findings that the alt is good. I say the alt is bad and the cause of your problem. If a fusible link is available from Toyota, it would be good maintenance procedure to replace it as they are (were, the last time I bought one for the 62) very inexpensive.
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:07 PM
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Yes, the wire should be connected to test the alt output. It's the charge wire to the battery. I have to disagree with NAPA's findings that the alt is good. I say the alt is bad and the cause of your problem. If a fusible link is available from Toyota, it would be good maintenance procedure to replace it as they are (were, the last time I bought one for the 62) very inexpensive.
Thanks for the info Steve.

So, if I connect the voltmeter to the alternator, I should be seeing it at 13V + and fluctuating as I change RPMs, correct?


Edit: I tested it again and had Kim rev it up and there was definitely no change on the V meter. Ay chance it could be something other than alternator?

New Toyota alternator is $100+, so I would hate to replace it without being sure it's the culprit. .
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:38 PM
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Thanks for the info Steve.

So, if I connect the voltmeter to the alternator, I should be seeing it at 13V + and fluctuating as I change RPMs, correct?


Edit: I tested it again and had Kim rev it up and there was definitely no change on the V meter. Ay chance it could be something other than alternator?

New Toyota alternator is $100+, so I would hate to replace it without being sure it's the culprit. .
If it were me, the alternator would be replaced, with OEM, and I'd feel good about it. Your batteries will thank you.
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