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  #11  
Old 10-25-2013, 07:25 AM
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Default FJ60 Long Travel Shocks

I can't believe I missed this thread... I'm doing the same thing on the 40 as we speak. My plan was a single shear tab welded near the bottom of the axle but not bellow it. To accommodate for the "roundness" of the axle housing I was going to back fill the space in with a piece of pipe cut/shaped at a 45. I too am looking at rear options as I finish the front mock up. Here's a quick example of what I'm trying to describe...not my actual bracket. BTW, these guys have a ton of tabs to give you even more ideas, http://www.ballisticfabrication.com

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Old 10-25-2013, 09:06 AM
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I think ideally the mount would be on the axle tube like you say... and up higher a bit..

I gotta go low to get the length out of it.. and I am hoping since the original location was down there and I managed to not mangle them over the years maybe it'll still work?

I like that link for all the tabs... that's a great resource! If you're gonna do an axle tube mount why not just grab some of their axle tube shock tabs?
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  #13  
Old 10-25-2013, 09:27 AM
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Wow, mamasita said to go TO the garage? That's not the response I often get. What did you do to deserve getting kicked out of the house?
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:33 AM
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She wants the rig to be ready for the next Desert trip of course!!! Can't chase dreams in the desert without stiff shocks!
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:52 AM
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What Travis posted is exactly what I was talking about. Technically single shear, but generally not what people tend to do. The shear plane is welded, and thus allows for no movement. The typical single shear that people are always cautioning about is a tab with a single hole, and a bolt going through the shock, with no mount on the opposite side. This can allow for a lot of fatigue on the bolt, and is much weaker than double shear.

What Travis posted is a good bit stronger, and obviously works great in many stock applications.

The mounts you show marco will be great. Brace them and they should hold up find, though, if they hang down, they can be rock anchors. All in all, you gotta do what works and fits.

FWIW, there are a number of race trucks out there running a modified single shear mount which consists of a sleeve through the frame, and a bolt holding the frame side heim on front links. Working well and is strong.

So, as I said, it depends entirely on how you do it.
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:52 AM
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Oh, and ditto on what Matt said!
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
I like that link for all the tabs... that's a great resource! If you're gonna do an axle tube mount why not just grab some of their axle tube shock tabs?
My rear shocks aren't Bilsteins with a built in heim joint. They're the standard rubber bushing. I've got a lot of flex as well & It's been on my mind a lot. I think that I may spring for some Bils & do it right from the beginning. A double shear is less fab and IMHO, stronger....and I thought I was done putting money into this thing---hahaha
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:44 PM
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Really timely thread; My lovely wife Linda calls our adventures in our 60 "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride". I understand her sentiment in that while she (Alice, our FJ60) articulates wonderfully off road, she kinda rolls a bit on I-70 on highway curves. On-Topic, I believe the shocks need to be replaced, and during my "Mr. Toad's Wild Ride" expeditions, my main take was the shocks are shot, and whatever new ones will replace them should have a gentle intake (compression) and a very firm extension. Or should I have that the other way around?
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  #19  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:32 PM
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Slight hijack but found these tonight, unfortunately they're too long for my application but a great price....$125 better get on it, they'll sell tomorrow

Extended: 34.9"
Collapsed: 20.75
14" travel
255/70 valving

http://cosprings.craigslist.org/pts/4151893229.html

(719) 650-8909
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  #20  
Old 10-29-2013, 10:46 PM
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Alrighty, we're finally a bit closer. I gotta say the 360/80 valving is going to be sweet in the desert loaded and running fast.

I am thinking the shocks need to be a tad shorter though.. I have 5.5" of up travel left and about 6" to the bump. When I got these shocks I was thinking I could set them up/in enough to make them work...



The lower mounts turned out ok.. Not super out of the way but I think they'll work and the maximize the shock


length
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