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  #11  
Old 08-30-2006, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulk
So if you had to do it again, you'd stick with the Toyota rotors too?
My answer is no I wouldn't prefer stock over DBA's. 80's are heavy (news flash!) anyway you can shed some friction heat while stopping the fat ladies has to be a good thing in my book. I think the Auzzie DBA slotted/drilled rotors are about the same cost as OEM. You will hear as many sides as to which is better as you would if you questioned an L on the grill vrs Farmer Bob! Personal preferance, cost and availability are the only real factors!
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  #12  
Old 08-30-2006, 06:27 PM
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Matt, I forgot to say if you want to borrow my brass drifts or my lock ring pliers let me know and they are all yours.
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2006, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben
Locking the locker would have no benefit as either the splines are lined up or they are not and either case a slight rotation of the driveshaft will line it up!
You are probably correct Kevin and Tim. I heard the rationale for the rear and someone told me (Mabrodis?) it's a good idea to do the front before I did mine, but I have no data to support the front. The problems I was thinking of had to do with the rear.
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  #14  
Old 08-30-2006, 09:46 PM
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I'll elaborate a little on the DBA's.. I LOVE how well they stop. They are solid, no shakes, had them over 20K miles and they're still fine, plenty of pad left. But of course, I brake slower than I accelerate (YMMV, ..) Also rebuilt both calipers at the time of install, one was sticking which is why my stockers kept warping. He also adjusted the LSPV.. oh and put stainless lines on, and a new master. I'm well into the 4 digits on brake upgrades...

If I were to do it again (and I will) I'd go with slotted DBA's, but not drilled. http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_acces...IT%20FZJ80.htm In my head that's still most the benefits of lower heat, without the worry of getting dirt & crap in the holes. But I still run Kane Creek every year so it's not that big of a worry now, is it.

And you don't really have to do it all at once, y'know? The sloppy part is taking the spindles off.. brakes is just the flange, caliper, and 2 big nuts. but you knew that.. hth.
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  #15  
Old 08-30-2006, 10:00 PM
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Wish I was going to be there with you cause I need to do my front end service, too. I have a brass drift and a hub nut sucket you can use.
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  #16  
Old 09-04-2006, 12:44 AM
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Two days, seven cans of brake cleaner, and a million paper towels later, the front axle has been rebuilt! All new seals and bearings, including wheel bearings.

Many thanks to Hants, who helped me out and provided much-needed guidance during about 90% of the project. He also had two torque wrenches that we much nicer than mine.

Is there any reason to save old bearings? Is this a trail repair item?

Also, how do I dispose of various petroleum agents (kerosene and gasoline) used in cleaning parts? I have several gallons worth.
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  #17  
Old 09-04-2006, 11:46 AM
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Glad I could help. It was great meeting you and your family!

How does she run now? Are the symtoms gone?
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2006, 12:32 PM
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It's much easier to handle on the road. I'm still getting a "clunk" -- U-joints are next on my list.

I'm still attempting to clean up the mess from this project. Grease, grime and grit everywhere.
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2006, 01:08 PM
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When are you getting the clunk?

Any play in your drive shafts? Have you greased your UJoints/Driveshafts recently?
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  #20  
Old 09-04-2006, 01:32 PM
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Did you replace the knuckle bearings? double-check the torque of the top & bottom knuckle bolts
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