Rising Sun Member Forums  

Go Back   Rising Sun Member Forums > Toyota 4x4 > General Tech Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 02-13-2015, 10:36 AM
CardinalFJ60's Avatar
CardinalFJ60 CardinalFJ60 is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,630
Default trying to arrest the rust...now what do I do??

so....I started to dig out the giant bubbled paint on the rear quarters of the 40. the paint was keeping things intact... "rust dust" literally came out. My question is after I chip it out...then what?? wire wheel/brush? cut out even more? then paint with some kind of rust inhibiting paint. here's some of the gruesome pics.
Attached Images
    
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-13-2015, 11:40 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Colo Springs
Posts: 1,360
Default

This body has been repaired before - with filler. Use a hammer to break off the bondo and paint, and wirewheel/grind it all the way down to the metal, and assess the actual rust holes vs. surface rust. You'll find some of each.

Then, weld in new metal patches and prime/paint. You might consider using patch panels, if they make sense.

Finally, rustproof the back side of all patches with grease and don't drive it on sloppy/Mag Chloride days.

The silver truck you see generated the pile of cut-out rusty hunks in the 2nd photo.
Attached Images
  
__________________
Steve H.
Colo Springs, CO
'78 FJ40, '89 FJ62, '98 4Runner
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-13-2015, 12:00 PM
CardinalFJ60's Avatar
CardinalFJ60 CardinalFJ60 is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 1,630
Default Wow look at that pile!

How do you cut it out?. What tools would I need?

I only have hammers, chisels, screwdrivers, wire wheels, and hand nippers and such. Do you end up torching it out? I don't weld so I think I can only get so far.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-13-2015, 12:56 PM
VIIIFe VIIIFe is offline
Rock Stacker
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lakewood
Posts: 8
Default

You could probably start cleaning it up with a dremel, although that might take forever. I'm not sure what is used (angle grinders, torches, etc.?) for larger areas that need to be cut out.
__________________
1994 FZJ80
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-13-2015, 12:57 PM
subzali's Avatar
subzali subzali is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 7,795
Default

If you've gotten that far you need a welder to put it back together. Angle grinder with cutoff wheels, sawzall depending on extent of damage and what it being removed
__________________
Matt Miller
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions)
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-13-2015, 01:17 PM
Jacket's Avatar
Jacket Jacket is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lafayette
Posts: 4,195
Default

I used an angle grinder to cut out my rear quarters:

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?p=84015

You can get different levels of precision with bigger and smaller sized wheels.

But in general I did what SteveH said. Use an angle grinder with a soft pad to sand down the paint and expose the bare metal. Surface rust can be sanded away, and holes will need to be cut out - cut it big enough to get good metal on all four sides. Then you can patch in new metal, or if its bad enough you can consider a whole new panel. The end result will be fresh metal, but not clean and smooth metal. Grind it as smooth as possible, then buy some filler to smooth it out if you like. Lots of apply/block/sand/apply/sand/apply/sand until it's relatively smooth. THen prime and paint.
__________________
- Matt
1976 FJ40 - green and mostly stock
1996 FZJ80 - not so stock

Last edited by Jacket; 02-13-2015 at 01:55 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-13-2015, 02:35 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Colo Springs
Posts: 1,360
Default

I would not use a torch....

After grinding off the surface coating (bondo or paint), I used a $9.99 Harbor Freight right-angle grinder and slicing disks to cut out the metal. I also used an air die-grinder for the smaller holes. Use a lot of hearing and eye protection. Fit the new pieces of metal as tightly as possible.

This thread has some of the best photos and advice I have ever seen on patch panel welding: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=53534

Matt's advice in reply #6 is spot-on.
__________________
Steve H.
Colo Springs, CO
'78 FJ40, '89 FJ62, '98 4Runner
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-13-2015, 02:52 PM
treerootCO's Avatar
treerootCO treerootCO is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,622
Send a message via AIM to treerootCO
Default

These cutoff discs last 10x as long as any others I have found. I also haven't had one shatter like the Forney ones Ace sells (knock on wood)...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7284_200627284

Name:  44673_2000x2000.jpg
Views: 90
Size:  189.9 KB
__________________
aka Mike D.----->Bio Page KDřGWY
“He who goes unarmed in paradise had better be sure that that is where he is.”—James Thurber
"Its better to be thought a fool rather than to speak up and remove all doubt." - Lincoln
pride is ego, the word I had lost was dignity. The quality or state of being worthy of esteem or respect.
Ptarmigan build thread - 95FZJ80
www.root45.com
www.risingsun4x4club.org

TLCA #14133

Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-13-2015, 10:00 PM
subzali's Avatar
subzali subzali is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Denver CO
Posts: 7,795
Default trying to arrest the rust...now what do I do??

Shawn, read this thread:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bump...enders.235482/

And this thread:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/81-b...ection.604934/

These two have examples of how to do patching while keeping things driveable.

If you go full frame off restoration on it, read this thread:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/index.php?th...-thread.39575/

And this thread:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/index.php?th...-later.104821/

Good luck.

Remember, rust never sleeps. I really need to get some electrical service in my garage and get a welder and get after the rust demons on my own junk. My heart hurts for you man.
__________________
Matt Miller
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions)
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-16-2015, 12:45 PM
powderpig's Avatar
powderpig powderpig is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,356
Default

Has any one used the repair panels from Cool Cruisers of Texas. They have lots of parts to fab into the body. Whole quarters and supports, tubs, ETC.
this may be some of what you will in the end need Shawn. Body parts to work with.
Maybe the threads above in Matt's thread mention places to get the body panels to work with. I have not read them yet.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.