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Old 03-23-2015, 05:04 PM
Armadillo Armadillo is offline
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Default 75 FJ40 Intake/Exhaust Manifold

Got to be honest up front...I'm humbled in reading through the forum. I bought my FJ40 to clean it up, knowing that someone with much more experience would have to take care of the 2F. I've been told (no reason to doubt) that the intake/exhaust manifold is warped, creating all sorts of vacuum problems. I don't want to take short cuts in making the repairs but I would appreciate any suggestions/advice from this group so I don't wander too far down the wrong path. Thanks in advance for sharing! Tom
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:20 PM
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Take it to spitfire automotive on 64th and federal snd ask them to plane the intake and exhaust flat as a unit (leave them bolted together)
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:25 PM
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lil bit of a drive from tx to 64th and federal :O
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:43 PM
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Whoops.
Ok do that somewhere in texas

Or the other option is various gaskets like remflex or two stacked and torque it good and hope
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:24 PM
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Default This one actually blew the gasket apart

Warped intake
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Old 03-23-2015, 10:48 PM
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Yeah, take it apart and separate the two manifolds.....

Replace the gasket between the two and decide whether or not you want to leave the heat deflector in there. I left mine. Some people replace it with a more substantial plate. The heat from the exhaust can crack the intake which is why some folks choose to block more heat with a different design.


Then hope that the front and rear manifold 90 degree pieces stay kinda stuck in there. If not get two new metal seals for each and stick it back together again. If it won't jam together then maybe think about tack welding them... this is to keep it all together for the machining process (below)

Put the two halves together using either the cylinder head or something else to alighn the two halves as well as possible while you tighten the bolts. I used my head.

Once the two halves are bolted together and the 90's are kinda stuck the hard part happens.....

You HAVE to find somebody that will machine the assembly down as a unit. Most Cylinder head shops don't want to do it since it is hard to fixture and has dissimmilar metals and the cast iron gets really hard on manifolds.... it tears up tooling. Try to find a head shop that just sticks heads on belt sanders and runs them down. Then explain to them what you're after and try to convince them to do it. Chances are it'll take some searching but eventually you'll find a shop that'll do it. Spitfire here in Denver I found woudl do it but charged me a lot of money... it was worth it though.


THEN, once it is machined, make sure that where the washers hit the manifolds to tighten it all down is even... so each bolt/washer/nut pulls evenly on the intake and exhaust manifold part it clamps. I had to hand grind each spot with a dremel to make sure the washers sat even. this is pretty key for even tourque on each bolt.

Then bolt it up with a stock gasket using the OEM torque specs.

I have not had luck with the remflex gaskets.... they have blown out on me several times. I also tended to overtorque them... maybe that was the problem.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:22 PM
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I replaced the manifold with a set of headers and fluid hear riser. But I didn't have any warping issues. And for my my two cents I haven't had any issues with the remflex gasket. But I think they're pretty specific when it comes to torque ratings.
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Old 03-25-2015, 10:48 PM
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X2 on belt sanding together as a unit (as opposed to milling, or milling separately as a lot of places would want to try).

Problem with the gasket between the intake and exhaust is that I believe it is now made of unobtanium. I was told I bought the last one in the North American system many years ago for my '76.

Also X2 on the OEM manifold gasket. When I build an engine I have no problem with aftermarket gaskets for everything but the head gasket and manifold gasket, although the one piece OEM oil pan gasket is much nicer than the 4 piece aftermarket ones.
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