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Old 03-10-2014, 11:18 AM
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nattybumppo nattybumppo is offline
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Default Orion help

Any of youse guys with Orion experience have any tips for me on how to get out the needle/pilot bearing on the front end of the transfer output shaft? I have a nice new one in my Orion kit, but I have to get the old one out first. The roller needles are of course gone at this point, but the sleeve in which they resided is in there good and tight and has to come out.
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:41 AM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Can you cut away the inside of the race very, very carefully with a carbide tipped die grinder bit, and then finish splitting it with a cold chisel, and then collapse the race?
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:04 PM
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You can buy interior pullers, like those for pilot bearings, very cheaply at Harbor Freight. Probably won't last, but should do the trick for this.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:13 PM
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I'd try a pilot bearing puller. The other trick is to use grease and a very snug fitting punch and let hydraulics do the work. I never could get that to work on pilot bearings, which is why I bought the puller...
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:34 PM
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I have had very good luck with the grease method for pilot bearings. A pilot bearing puller won't work on this, I tried...but...a quick trip to Gunn Automotive to see Phil did the trick. Kenny put it on his industrial something and pulled it right out for $5. Man, I like great tools and the people who know how to use them. I should have gone down there two days ago!
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Sascha Steinway TLCA # 20217
1977 FJ40 "Ripper" (because it shreds!) (What is a "shread"...Steve Crase)
1988 FJ62 "Dino" OME, now in the hands of my daughter
2013 F-150 "Black Ops"
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:48 PM
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All done, installed and running great...but I have one more question. I am getting a slight leak at the bottom, it may be that my idler shaft o-ring didn't go in as well as I thought it did. It seems to me that I can lightly tap the shaft out toward the back and replace that rear ring without removing or tearing apart anything...as long as I am careful to just expose the rear o-ring slot and don't go any further. I think this because on the initial install you seat the front o-ring on the idlet shaft into the front of the transfer case first, then install the rear o-ring and finish tapping the shaft in. Any flaws with this logic?
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Sascha Steinway TLCA # 20217
1977 FJ40 "Ripper" (because it shreds!) (What is a "shread"...Steve Crase)
1988 FJ62 "Dino" OME, now in the hands of my daughter
2013 F-150 "Black Ops"
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Old 04-05-2014, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nattybumppo View Post
All done, installed and running great...but I have one more question. I am getting a slight leak at the bottom, it may be that my idler shaft o-ring didn't go in as well as I thought it did. It seems to me that I can lightly tap the shaft out toward the back and replace that rear ring without removing or tearing apart anything...as long as I am careful to just expose the rear o-ring slot and don't go any further. I think this because on the initial install you seat the front o-ring on the idlet shaft into the front of the transfer case first, then install the rear o-ring and finish tapping the shaft in. Any flaws with this logic?
Nope, we've done it this same way. As noted just be careful not to pull too far or you can drop that thrust washer out. Those o-rings are a pain, make sure to dowse them in oil as you gently tap the idler shaft in.
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:36 PM
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Thanks, Kurt!
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Sascha Steinway TLCA # 20217
1977 FJ40 "Ripper" (because it shreds!) (What is a "shread"...Steve Crase)
1988 FJ62 "Dino" OME, now in the hands of my daughter
2013 F-150 "Black Ops"
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