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Old 03-12-2014, 10:20 PM
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subzali subzali is online now
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Default Briggs help

I've got a tiller from 1974 that I'm trying to get running. It was my grandfather's. It has a Briggs motor on it, and hasn't run in 10 years. I can't get it running. The short story:
-Tried cleaning carb and fuel tank with carb cleaner
-Checked for spark (it shocked me good several times and lays down a nice blue spark) and put a new spark plug in
-Sprayed starting fluid in cylinder and installed plug, no fire
-Checked compression, get about 50 psi with throttle open, choke off and air cleaner off.

Is the compression too low? What to check next?

The long story:
The whole fuel system smelled like varnished gasoline, as gas was left in it when it was last put away. There is no carburetor rebuild kit available for it, only a complete carb assembly for $80-$110 depending on where I look online. I'd rather not put a whole new carb on it, was hoping I could get it running as-is. I pulled the carb and fuel tank off and drained them, sprayed them down with carb cleaner and reinstalled hoping that that would be enough. As it is I had to cut 2 new gaskets since they are NLA and the old ones were bad.

On the side of the carb there is a diaphragm style fuel pump, I'm thinking I should pull the cover off and spray it down with carb cleaner. But if there's a formed rubber gasket in there and I mess it up then I'll be SOL.

The compression is 50 psi. I checked the Briggs manual my dad gave me with the tiller and it doesn't provide compression numbers; only that if I rotate the flywheel against the compression stroke it should kick back pretty strong. Without doing that, seeing as I do have a compression tester, does 50 psi sound too low? Some reading online indicates anywhere from 60-85 psi to over 100 psi would be good. I get some blowback through the carb as the piston is cycling, so without doing a no-fooling leakdown test I'm kinda thinking an intake valve is stuck open somehow. I guess I should try squirting some oil down into the cylinder to see if the compression goes up. And try the reverse-rotation method in the manual.

Any other thoughts or suggestions?
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:56 PM
066wally 066wally is offline
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Matt,
Time to pull the head and get a look at the valves and cylinder bore.
W-
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:11 PM
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Spraying carb cleaner is probably not enough. It should run with the compression you have...maybe not well but should start. I'd recommend soaking the carb (disassembled) over night in a bucket of carb cleaner then reaming out each jet (and the pick-up) with a piece of wire. I'd then re-soak it and then blow it out with the air compressor. I'd bet that you still have a varnished/clogged jet.

I'm guessing that your arm is sore from pulling the thing by now. I've got a snow blower that refuses to fire with the pull start. To fight back, I welded a nut onto the auger shaft and now use my electric drill (in reverse) to start her....Poor man's electric starter I suppose or maybe it's true that there's no REAL men anymore. Either way, my arm is no longer sore. Might want to looking into a similar mod to save your arm too!
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:21 AM
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check the timing, a lot of times they will shear the key on the flywheel throwing off the timing and making it a bear to start or even run.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:28 AM
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On the side of the carb there is a diaphragm style fuel pump, I'm thinking I should pull the cover off and spray it down with carb cleaner. But if there's a formed rubber gasket in there and I mess it up then I'll be SOL.

If the engine will run on a shot of starting fluid, then this is your problem (or one of them ). I have replaced several of those diaphragms and they are $2 at your local small engine shop. They are critical to the operation of the vacuum pulse fuel pump. The diaphragms get saggy in the middle, or stiff, and will not pump fuel. A small engine guy explained this to me one day, so I keep a spare one on hand. Don't try to clean or fix the current diaphragm - just replace it. I have rehabbed several old tillers and Briggs engines from that era, and after 5 years of sitting (or less), this part is toast. Let us know how it turns out!
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:54 AM
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Default Briggs help

For some reason Briggs has decided that this carb shall not have a rebuild kit available. It's a 80202-0510-01 with a pulsa-jet carb, if someone has a good small engine shop guy and wants to double-check me.

To clarify, it will NOT run on even starting fluid.

So nobody thinks that blowing back through the carb is my first problem?
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:27 AM
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Did you check with these guys? http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:35 AM
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wont run on starting fluid? like not even a hint of firing? sounds like ignition..
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baja1d View Post
Did you check with these guys? http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts
Thanks Travis, if I knew the number for the rebuild kit I need they might just have it. Don't know how to find out which kit I need though

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
wont run on starting fluid? like not even a hint of firing? sounds like ignition..
The pulling gets a little easier with carb cleaner and starting fluid sprayed into the carb, so I guess you could call that a hint. Maybe.
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:27 PM
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but no big backfires or hits or flame out the exhaust or anything of that sort?
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