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Old 06-10-2015, 11:18 AM
DouglasVB DouglasVB is offline
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Talking Help me pimp my 4runner

Howdy gang

As some of you know, I am the proud owner of a very stock 1988 Toyota 4runner DLX in beautiful gold/beige/whatever that color is called. There is very minimal rust on a few places on the body panels but otherwise it's a straight, clean truck with 155k on the odometer. So far I have put a CB radio in it and run appropriate wiring (no antenna yet... waiting on new front bumper), thrown a little aftermarket tachometer on, put in a little voltmeter, and run wires for a VHF/UHF radio and 10 meter radio (I have both but haven't installed the radios or antennas yet).

My goal for the minitruck is to have a good daily driver that also is a competent off road vehicle that I can do some overlanding/exploration with, come on club rides with, and drive all over the west while not worrying too much about being stranded in the middle of the desert. Oh, I also want a solid front axle (blame DanS for that )

My dream would be to live out of the truck for a few months a year exploring and blogging but I doubt that's going to happen

The purpose of this thread is to give me ideas on what I should be doing to upgrade my minitruck into something you all (those of you who like 4runners) would be envious of. And considering some of the crazy other projects I've done (I'm looking at you, full fuel injection conversion of an obscure 80s motorcycle), I probably am actually going to do most of the things you all suggest.



So to start off this thread, here is a list of everything I have done or am about to do to the truck. I will update this list as I do the modifications, etc:
  • 1988 Toyota 4runner DLX with 22RE, manual transmission, working AC
  • Some aftermarket AM/FM/CD/USB radio that the previous owner installed. The speakers are also aftermarket and not wired up very well. I will eventually address this to have better sound to pump out my sweet 1980s playlist.
  • CB Radio installed below AM/FM/CD/USB radio (Antenna not yet installed... 5 foot Firestik waiting in my garage)
  • Provisions for VHF/UHF radio with Baofeng little hand-held radio sitting on my dresser waiting to go into the truck and external antenna in my garage waiting to go (Yes, I know Baofeng isn't super great but it should be good enough to get me started in amateur radio. Eventually I'll get a better mobile radio.)
  • Provisions for 10 meter radio using my grandfather's Kenwood TS440s (No antenna yet but am planning on an inexpensive Radio Shack 102" whip tuned for 10 meters)
  • Front tube bumper on order from 4xInnovations. Delivery expected toward the end of June. Indicator lights will be integrated, have the two-bend top tube on order for better mounting places for antennas and eventual off-road lights. Two or three radio antennas will be mounted on the front, Australian style.
  • Tube doors with upper tube bump-out on order from 4xInnovations. Will have quick-change hinges and mirrors. Plan in the future is to make my own fabric covers to somehow put in the door openings for rainy days or cold days.
  • Sliders from 4xInnovations on order and arriving toward the end of June. (Thanks DaveInDenver for reminding me of this!)
  • Softopper from the company in Boulder came from the previous owner. Absolutely this is the best part of the truck so far.
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Douglas in Golden
1988 Toyota 4runner DLX
1989 Honda Pacific Coast PC800 with custom fuel injection system
1979 Yamaha XS1100 Special
2004 Subaru Forester XT with 5MT and WRX suspension
KD7YBQ
TLCA #23604

Last edited by DouglasVB; 06-10-2015 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:31 AM
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DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
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I've had antennas on my bull bar, I never much liked them out there. Performance suffers, they are always in snapshots and they get broken more. I drilled holes in the roof, but YMMV.

Maybe add sliders sooner rather than later. My rocker panels look like heck because I don't have them. I did have them for a while when the truck was more built up and eventually had to cut them off because they were so bashed up (and had actually flexed into the body, so imagine had bad it would be without them). I'm planning on them as the first modification for our Tacoma when I get enough money.
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:43 AM
DouglasVB DouglasVB is offline
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Default Things I am thinking of doing to my 4runner

I have thought of several things that I want to do to my 4runner in the near to mid-term future. Blame all of the great build threads over at Ih8mud, Roger Brown at 4Crawler, and some of the sweet rigs I've seen running around Denver. Also blame my friend Drew who has a 2WD minitruck from 1984 with some ridiculous prerunner modifications.

I'm going to try to separate out things into some different categories for ease of reading and later reference...



Drivetrain
  • Solid axle swap. After testing out my 4runner versus DanS's solid axle 4runner, I know that I really want a solid axle in my truck's front. Probably stick with 4runner/mini truck solid front axle but the FJ60 front axle is tempting. I don't see a reason for me to go up to 1 ton running gear. I'm not planning a MASSIVE rock crawling beast and don't want to change out my engine from the beautiful 22RE. Winter Project. I'm going to need to find a shop space somewhere that I can do this in because my garage isn't big enough.
  • Marlin Dual Ultimate Crawler. More sticks on the floor translates to a better truck, right? I'm mainly interested in the extra low speeds for situations where I would rather carefully pick my way through than bash my way through. I'm more of a slow and steady guy than a fast and rash guy. Plus Marlin Crawler is just a mile or two away from where my grandma lives. I think that a 23 spline setup is correct for me although I believe my transmission has a 21 spline output? And I think the existing axles and drive shafts have 27 splines? But if I'm getting new gears and drive shafts, I could step it up to 30 splines for strength. Some guidance here would be appreciated. Winter Project. Plan to do this with the SAS.
  • Chevy 63" rear spring swap. I already have some newer springs in the rear of my truck that the PO put in but I would like some more elevation in the rear to match the eventual front lift from the SASing I'm going to give the truck. Winter Project. Plan to do this with the SAS.
  • Front and rear lockers. I really like the design of ARB so I think that I will go that route. Winter Project Plan to do this with the SAS.
  • Regear differentials to either 4.88:1 or 5.29:1 to accommodate 33" tires. Winter Project. Plan to do this with the SAS.
  • New tires either 33" or something bigger. I think 33" is probably the right decision based on what I want to do with the truck. Currently it has 30" tires that have about another year of fun left in them. Winter Project. Plan to do this with the SAS.
  • Differential breather tubes and also probably transfer case and transmission breather tubes. Second Priority. Need to decide where I'll have the breathers route to. I don't plan on having a truck that can go through six feet of water. Waterproofing all of the electronics is not my idea of a good time. Probably I'll have these breathers terminate at about the rear bed sides level.



Engine
  • New headers and larger diameter exhaust system to let that exhaust escape better. I already have a rusty tailpipe and expect that when emissions are due in two years I'll need to replace part or all of my exhaust system. Stupid road salt!
  • Snorkel air intake. I want this on the right side (including relocating the air box) like what Roger Brown is in the process of doing. Not sure what snorkel kit will hug the right side of the vehicle the best. I don't really want to build my own snorkel with round tube external to the vehicle. I don't like that look as much as the snorkels out of Australia. Third Priority. Because this looks super cool, obviously it's high on my priority list. Also I'm a little irrationally concerned about sucking water into my engine and hydrolocking.



Electrical
  • Dual or triple deep cycle sealed batteries (Optima or equivalent... maybe one of those fancy new lithium battery setups)
  • Bigger alternator. Not convinced of this though. With a couple big batteries, the stock alternator probably would keep them topped up just fine.
  • Convert all of the external and internal lights to LED. Convert the headlights to something that doesn't suck so bad but still looks stock. HID? LED? Other?
  • Driving/fog/off road lights. Both on the tube bumper and also on an eventual little roof rack to give it that Back to the Future Toyota SR5 minitruck look. Also because I would like to play in the dark someday.
  • Trail welding setup. Might be as basic as connecting the batteries together in series and using some jumper cables and some welding rod or could be more advanced, running off of a beefed up alternator and with the engine at a high idle.
  • More power ports and USB power sources in the truck. Parts already here. Need to spend a day installing these. I'm using Blue Sea Systems parts. I've always had good luck with their equipment on my motorcycle electrical projects.
  • Russian-style dash cam (already have one in my Subaru and love it).
  • Winch to go onto my tube bar. I'm thinking a Smittybilt winch. Could be Warn though, too. First Priority. Planning to install this in July once I decide what to get.
  • Rewire headlights so all the current doesn't route through the hi/lo beam switch.



Armor and Whatnot[list][*]Differential armor of some sort.[*]Skid plates?[*]Rear tube bumper with swing-out tire carrier. I want some good recovery points on this and either it needs to support towing or I need to preserve the hitch system that is already mounted to the truck.[*]More grab handles in the truck. Maybe one on the dash. Maybe some on the backs of the driver and passenger seats. I plan to have friends go with me quite a bit so it needs to be comfortable for them. Also my girlfriend has commented on wanting more places to grab onto up front.[*]Roll cage? I'm not really wanting to go down this route due to weight issues but maybe someday?
[\LIST]



Misc Upgrades
  • Relocate gas tank maybe into the spare tire wheel well using a Ford-style tank?
  • Onboard potable water storage tank.
  • Thinking about a hot water shower setup that steals heat from the engine.
  • Pull pal for self-recovery where there are no trees.
  • Tree strap to keep my favorite plants healthy.
  • More D-rings and recovery points.
  • SWEET 80S GRAPHICS PACKAGE
  • Electric fan for engine.
  • Fire extinguishers mounted in easily accessible places on the truck. Currently I carry a small fire extinguisher in a box in the back.
__________________
Douglas in Golden
1988 Toyota 4runner DLX
1989 Honda Pacific Coast PC800 with custom fuel injection system
1979 Yamaha XS1100 Special
2004 Subaru Forester XT with 5MT and WRX suspension
KD7YBQ
TLCA #23604

Last edited by DouglasVB; 06-10-2015 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 06-10-2015, 11:48 AM
DouglasVB DouglasVB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
I've had antennas on my bull bar, I never much liked them out there. Performance suffers, they are always in snapshots and they get broken more. I drilled holes in the roof, but YMMV.

Maybe add sliders sooner rather than later. My rocker panels look like heck because I don't have them. I did have them for a while when the truck was more built up and eventually had to cut them off because they were so bashed up (and had actually flexed into the body, so imagine had bad it would be without them). I'm planning on them as the first modification for our Tacoma when I get enough money.
Thanks for the reminder! I actually have sliders on order already (also arriving at the end of June). COMPLETELY forgot that I had them coming. I'll update the list of mods with that.

And yes, I understand about antenna efficiency (is that the right wording?) and placing antennas in the middle of a large ground plane (the roof). As crazy as it sounds, I'm willing (at least for now) to have worse performance and the potential of broken antennas to have them mounted up front. I fully acknowledge that it is completely irrational and driven solely off of the way they look. After seeing all those sweet Utes in Australia with their massive VHF antennas mounted on their ridiculously oversized bullbars, I knew I needed some of that sweet front mount antenna action in my life. All of my engineering degrees are screaming in their diploma holders right now.
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Douglas in Golden
1988 Toyota 4runner DLX
1989 Honda Pacific Coast PC800 with custom fuel injection system
1979 Yamaha XS1100 Special
2004 Subaru Forester XT with 5MT and WRX suspension
KD7YBQ
TLCA #23604
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Old 06-10-2015, 12:40 PM
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DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
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Holy mod list. I've owned my '91 for 15 years and haven't done but maybe 1/8th of those things!

One general comment, you're thinking top down. You NEED recovery points. You NEED a properly maintained truck. Everything else is fluff. The difference in SAS and IFS is marginal, but done poorly it will be a major headache. Be ready for a shake down and constant tweaking. Toyota spent a lot of time engineering the solid axle system to work with the solid axle frame, steering, suspension, drivetrain. They did the same with IFS. The frame (they are not the same), steering, etc. on your truck are designed as a system.

Why FJ60 axle? Just curious. One advantage in my mind of a SAS to run the same third members front and rear for redundancy. If you go with a Cruiser front axle there's no easy way to run a matching rear axle since mini trucks have centered rear diffs and Cruiser do not. You'd either have to build a completely custom rear or use a Dana, which defeats (again in my mind) one of the main advantages, parts commonality.

That's actually one thing I do keep in mind, being able to fix my truck without the need to carry 200 lbs of unique spares. It's why I haven't done all the fancy mods. I want to be able to walk into a Toyota dealer or NAPA anywhere and get what I need. If I break a ball joint, I know what I have. If I need a wheel bearing or seal, EFI part, u-joint, whatever, I just need to know 10/1990 production Pickup and I will get the right thing. I've replaced everything at least once, so I know how to do it and my tool kit reflects what I'll need not to be stuck in BFE. Everyone thinks about the big things, winch/welder but unless you're going out hardcore rock crawling every weekend it's most likely going to be something mundane, like a blown axle seal or tie rod end, that's gonna to be your problem.

Stick to 33" tires, the jump to 35" on a mini truck is a major one. As it is 33" tires are tight (I had to flatten my fender seam to fit them, but I have IFS) unless you do a ton of lift. You'll need to cut fender lips and/or consider fiberglass fronts to fit 35".

Do 4.88 gears. I had 5.29 with 33" tires. Great acceleration and slight crawl improvement. Absolutely sucks driving 60 MPH everywhere. Sure, you can go faster, but mileage will be terrible. The 22R-E is happy cruising at about 2800 RPM, start sitting higher and your 18 to 20 MPG will go to 15 in a hurry.

Unless you're considering engine mods, stick with the 1.75" exhaust. I run a Engnbldr head with oversized valves and a 261C cam and originally had a LC Engineering 2.25" exhaust and LC Engineering header. I went back to the stock manifold and a Walker exhaust to gain back some low end. It ran well on the highway but lacked for torque. Plus the drone between 2500 and 3000 RPM drove me nuts on the highway. It's nice and quiet now.

I run a single Optima Red Top but my electrical demands are relatively low. I have a Warn XD9500 winch and an Engel 45 fridge. Still run the factory 70A alternator. For lighting I just have Hella replacement headlights with a headlight harness and Hella 500 fog lights. Dunno, just never been an issue. You do need to have the engine running when winching and start the truck about every 2nd or 3rd day camping in the summer (for the fridge).

There are no bolt-on snorkel kits for 22R-E trucks AFAIK. I know there's no Safari for mine at least. The V6 trucks have them and the diesel trucks do, too. So whatever you do will be at least semi-custom based on using the kits available.

Also, it sounds like you're made of money. Engine shower? A solar shower is much cheaper, works pretty well and costs a lot less. You're not tied down to where ever the truck is parked to use it. One less thing to fail and leave you stranded, since you're plumbing into the coolant system and now there's another exchanger to leak or whatever. Plus more custom tubes that no NAPA will have. Meh.
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'91 Pickup - Imelda
'08 Tacoma TRD - Donna
'09 Kawasaki KLR650
'12 Gunnar Rockhound 29

"Our task must be to free ourselves from this prison by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature in its beauty. Nobody is able to achieve this completely, but the striving for such achievement is in itself a part of the liberation and a foundation for inner security. " --Albert Einstein
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:23 PM
DouglasVB DouglasVB is offline
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Thanks for all the comments and suggestions! It's really helpful. You know us noobs wanting to do ALL THE MODS right away. I also suffer from want-to-do-all-the-neat-projects syndrome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
One general comment, you're thinking top down. You NEED recovery points. You NEED a properly maintained truck. Everything else is fluff. The difference in SAS and IFS is marginal, but done poorly it will be a major headache. Be ready for a shake down and constant tweaking. Toyota spent a lot of time engineering the solid axle system to work with the solid axle frame, steering, suspension, drivetrain. They did the same with IFS. The frame (they are not the same), steering, etc. on your truck are designed as a system.
Agreed on all points. I'm waiting to figure out more recovery points (still have the stock recovery point up front and the hitch that's installed in the rear has worked okay so far but I know it's not a good solution) until the front bumper comes. I don't know if there will be stock locations for shackles already included or if I'll need to put some on. If I need to put some on, I'll order them up probably from 4Crawler.

Regarding the SAS, it might be that my whole front end suspension needs a rebuild but I noticed a pretty significant difference going out with DanS on the roads south of Dumont between his 85 4runner and my 88 4runner. I know that about 80-90% of the issues could be solved with a front locker and a small lift though. But those solid axles are sooooo sexy...

Regarding truck maintenance, I've already replaced the master and slave clutch cylinders (PO included new ones in the NAPA boxes), replaced the front brake calipers and pads, replaced the brake booster, flushed and bled the brakes and clutch hydraulics, verified rear brake drum pads, replaced engine oil, replaced the starter (it was annoying to have to tap on it once in a while and I didn't know at the time that I could just replace the little brushes), replaced the fuel filter, and am going to do the transfer case rear seal hopefully today (just got the parts yesterday and am waiting for Amazon to deliver a tool I need today) and put synthetic into the transfer case. The PO had records of recent diff and transmission fluid changes and stated that he had done the coolant within the last 10,000 miles. Based on how honest he was with everything else with the truck, I think he told the truth on the coolant.

The two outstanding issues (aside from the t-case leak from the rear seal) are 1) front end vibration because the shocks and all of the rubber in the IFS are pretty well shot (pretty sure it's not tire imbalance but I am planning to rotate the front tires to the rear soon) and 2) a squeaking noise that most likely is coming from the power steering pump pulley.

If I want to fix the front IFS properly, it looks like that would cost me about $200 in parts and a day of me working on the truck. When I go over a bump on the highway, my front end will sway up and down for six or seven cycles before it damps out. There is also almost no damping when I hit a big bump. The front suspension compresses straight to the stops. If I'm going to do the SAS thing, then it makes more sense to let this problem ride over the summer and use that money toward SAS fun. If I'm not, then I might as well do the job one afternoon and ride happy. The front end vibration happens over 50mph.

If I want to do the power steering pump pulley, that's a few bucks for the bearing and an afternoon of my time. The squeaking happens at a specific RPM usually when the truck is cold or warming up (~1100-1900RPM). The previous owner believed the squeaking to come from somewhere in the engine and probably from something that happened when the timing chain and chain guides were replaced about 12,000 miles ago. A shop told him it was an engine bearing and doom and gloom would result but he said the squeak never changed and he never had problems, and I haven't had any problems yet, either. I'm aware that I could have a catastrophic engine apocalypse and paid the PO for the vehicle accordingly (what a steal of a deal!). This is on my to-do list hopefully next week.

I also have a full set of plugs, wires, the distributor cap, and the little thing that spins around inside the distributor that the PO gave me. I looked at the distributor cap and internals, and the wires that are currently on the truck. They all look good. I haven't pulled the spark plugs to look at them. My plan is to replace all of those wires (including the one from the igniter to the distributor) before the end of June. Even though everything looks good, I have the parts so I might as well do the job.

I have the belts and pulleys that the PO replaced last year. He included them as spares in case the new belts and pulleys (less than 15k miles on them) have an issue, etc.

In terms of vehicles that I have bought, I was really impressed with how well the PO maintained this thing. Most cars or motorcycles I've purchased in the past needed every possible repair done right away. This truck has been relatively worry-free by comparison.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Why FJ60 axle? Just curious. One advantage in my mind of a SAS to run the same third members front and rear for redundancy. If you go with a Cruiser front axle there's no easy way to run a matching rear axle since mini trucks have centered rear diffs and Cruiser do not. You'd either have to build a completely custom rear or use a Dana, which defeats (again in my mind) one of the main advantages, parts commonality.
I was attracted to the FJ60 axle because it (supposedly) is the same width as the rear axle in my 4runner. The earlier 4runner/minitruck solid front axles were narrower and I noticed most of the SAS kits available online come with wheel spacers to make up the difference. You make a good point about needing a bunch of specialized parts for the repair kit. Most likely I'll end up with a normal minitruck front axle (if I go the SAS route, etc) for that exact reason. It would be fun to have a frankentruck though

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
That's actually one thing I do keep in mind, being able to fix my truck without the need to carry 200 lbs of unique spares. It's why I haven't done all the fancy mods. I want to be able to walk into a Toyota dealer or NAPA anywhere and get what I need. If I break a ball joint, I know what I have. If I need a wheel bearing or seal, EFI part, u-joint, whatever, I just need to know 10/1990 production Pickup and I will get the right thing. I've replaced everything at least once, so I know how to do it and my tool kit reflects what I'll need not to be stuck in BFE. Everyone thinks about the big things, winch/welder but unless you're going out hardcore rock crawling every weekend it's most likely going to be something mundane, like a blown axle seal or tie rod end, that's gonna to be your problem.
That's something I agree with very much! Having had some oddball motorcycles before that require up to two months for a part to arrive from Japan... yeah. I don't want to have to wait until the slow boat from Tokyo arrives with whatever part I need.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Stick to 33" tires, the jump to 35" on a mini truck is a major one. As it is 33" tires are tight (I had to flatten my fender seam to fit them, but I have IFS) unless you do a ton of lift. You'll need to cut fender lips and/or consider fiberglass fronts to fit 35".
Sold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Do 4.88 gears. I had 5.29 with 33" tires. Great acceleration and slight crawl improvement. Absolutely sucks driving 60 MPH everywhere. Sure, you can go faster, but mileage will be terrible. The 22R-E is happy cruising at about 2800 RPM, start sitting higher and your 18 to 20 MPG will go to 15 in a hurry.
Sold. I already can't keep 55mph on some of the steeper grades between Golden and Boulder. No need to exacerbate that problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Unless you're considering engine mods, stick with the 1.75" exhaust. I run a Engnbldr head with oversized valves and a 261C cam and originally had a LC Engineering 2.25" exhaust and LC Engineering header. I went back to the stock manifold and a Walker exhaust to gain back some low end. It ran well on the highway but lacked for torque. Plus the drone between 2500 and 3000 RPM drove me nuts on the highway. It's nice and quiet now.
I was reading on some forums about engine mods that people got more torque down low and a bit more horsepower with different headers and a freer flowing exhaust. My two thoughts here are:
  1. I want to be able to keep 55mph going between Golden and Boulder and 55mph going between Golden and Idaho Springs. Right now I can't.
  2. I'm pretty happy with where the torque is for off road fun. It would be nice to have more but at least as a bone stock truck, I don't need any additional low end torque. Maybe that opinion will change as I go forward.

This wouldn't happen until my next Air Care Colorado appointment in two years anyway. It's not the end of the world to weld rusted out spots in the exhaust closed until then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
I run a single Optima Red Top but my electrical demands are relatively low. I have a Warn XD9500 winch and an Engel 45 fridge. Still run the factory 70A alternator. For lighting I just have Hella replacement headlights with a headlight harness and Hella 500 fog lights. Dunno, just never been an issue. You do need to have the engine running when winching and start the truck about every 2nd or 3rd day camping in the summer (for the fridge).
That's good info! I saw a lot of people on Ih8mud upgrading alternators and figured there was a reason. I've been watching the voltmeter I installed and it's been absolutely rock solid at something like 13.5-14 volts. The needle has never moved once between idling, 3000 RPM, and anything in between with any of the electrical equipment in the truck running or not. I figured with the radios then MAYBE I could see some extra consumption while transmitting that could impact things but realistically I'm not going to be running all three TX/RX radios all of the time and I won't have the stereo on if I'm listening to someone on the CB or 10 meter or VHF/UHF.

Have you seen any rigs running the new lithium batteries yet? A bunch of my friends out west are using them in their motorcycles now and have loved them but I haven't met anyone yet who is using one (or more) in a 4x4. I'm a big proponent of things that will make my engine compartment less cluttered.

What are your thoughts on one versus two or more batteries? I like redundancy (one of my professional things is performing analysis on systems to find places of likely failure and then determining ways to add appropriate redundancy to eliminate single-point failures) but I'm biased.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
There are no bolt-on snorkel kits for 22R-E trucks AFAIK. I know there's no Safari for mine at least. The V6 trucks have them and the diesel trucks do, too. So whatever you do will be at least semi-custom based on using the kits available.
Yup that's what I've found, too. The part number that most online sites list for the Safari Snorkels is for a left-hand snorkel kit that someone then has to modify with hardware from Home Depot or similar. The kit fits the outside of the minitruck but that's it. Considering where the intake manifold actually is in our 22RE minitrucks, it makes more sense in my head to have the snorkel on the right side so there isn't a huge hose crossing the engine bay. The battery box and air cleaners would then swap places. No huge problem in the grand scheme of things.

Thanks again for all of your input! It's really helpful to have all of you great folks to bounce ideas off of and get advice from. On some other forums that are more nationally-focused, it often seems that people will say "PUT A HUGE DIESEL ENGINE IN AND 1 TON RUNNING GEAR OR YOU NEVER WILL LOVE YOUR TRUCK" which isn't particularly useful.

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Douglas in Golden
1988 Toyota 4runner DLX
1989 Honda Pacific Coast PC800 with custom fuel injection system
1979 Yamaha XS1100 Special
2004 Subaru Forester XT with 5MT and WRX suspension
KD7YBQ
TLCA #23604
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:39 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Whew.

Couple things:
-bouncing up and down on bumps on the highway sounds a lot like shocks. That could be an easy fix.

-55mph up to Idaho Spgs on I-70 is going to be tough with a 22RE any way you cut it.

-Radios aren't a huge draw of amperage, seems like winches, lots of hi-wattage lights and fridge freezers are really the turning point for needing additional batteries. Some of that also goes along with extended trips in the backcountry.

-Recovery points and sliders. Just to reinforce that.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, no more Sanden OBA (factory emissions)
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Old 06-10-2015, 01:58 PM
DouglasVB DouglasVB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Whew.
Yup.


Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
bouncing up and down on bumps on the highway sounds a lot like shocks. That could be an easy fix.
Agreed. My friend Drew with the 2WD minitruck suggested getting a set of KYB Monomax shocks. Any thoughts on that? And would I be able to swap those shocks over to whatever I end up doing with the SAS potential project? I'd rather not duplicate parts but I suppose I could Craigslist them if the shocks wouldn't work for a SAS conversion. Also if I do a lift of some sort or another, would I want to get long travel shocks now? If I did stick with IFS, I'd probably pick up a set of ball joint spacers from 4crawler. I know they don't increase suspension travel but I believe my rear is already lifted about 1-2" from stock from the PO installing new rear leaf springs that were +1.5" or +2.5" over stock height(he thought that it would level the truck better and then couldn't return them once he realized it was now lifted in the rear).

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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
55mph up to Idaho Spgs on I-70 is going to be tough with a 22RE any way you cut it.
That's what I thought too but DanS who has a couple 22RE 4runners up in Dumont said that his all can maintain 55 from Denver to Dumont. Maybe I have something going on to cause a bunch of drag in the drivetrain or the engine is a little tired and worn out? Then again DanS is also probably 100# lighter than me.

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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Radios aren't a huge draw of amperage, seems like winches, lots of hi-wattage lights and fridge freezers are really the turning point for needing additional batteries. Some of that also goes along with extended trips in the backcountry.
I've done a lot of long duration backpacking over the years and never carried more than a tiny little lunch bag size cold bag for string cheese. I'm still getting used to the idea that people take big fridges and freezers with them. After being at the meetup at Slee Offroad last month and seeing the fridges with the beer in them... I'm starting to change my mind on wanting a fridge.

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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Recovery points and sliders. Just to reinforce that.
Yup yup yup! I entirely see why these are needed. My sliders are already on the way and once I figure out more about the tube bumper that's on order, I'll be ordering up additional recovery points to install. Having already pulled out and been pulled out in the last month since I picked up my 4runner, I very much understand how important the recovery points are. Also having nearly crushed in the side of my truck a couple times already from close shaves with trees, I totally understand that part of the equation, too.

Do people ever put undercarriage sliders (not really sure of the term) on their minitrucks? I was looking at the underside of the body the other day and it seems like the area between the wheel wells is really unprotected even with sliders installed. One good hit on the body down there and I doubt I'd ever get the door to close again. It seems like a slider tube braced to the frame would be the ticket. Maybe that's already included in the sliders that are on order from 4xInnovations? I Ordered the DOM with kickout round tube option. A buddy with a welder is going to help me weld on the sliders when they arrive.
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  #9  
Old 06-10-2015, 02:05 PM
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It really does makes sense to use a right hand snorkel, that would have been my approach if I ever did it. My main concern is the rewiring for the AFM. But otherwise moving the air box near the intake makes sense and moving the battery near the alternator, too.

Regards the header, I had the LC Engineering, which is a 4-into-1, acknowledged to be much better for high end at the expense of low end. It tends to scavenge worse (or better depending on your perspective) and I did tend to run lean at idle. I noticed a hit on the highway at speed, it lost some top end with the factory setup.

If you use the Thorley type it shouldn't be quite as high RPM specific, however the factory manifold is actually pretty good, similar configuration to the Thorley y-type. The main problem with the factory setup is that it tends to crack at the collector down by the firewall. I think the problem is mostly that there's not much you can do to tune the stock ECU, so it's trying to compensate for things you change. Since I have the non-stock cam profile it tended to try to advance to keep the O2 happy, so the header was competing with the cam. When I went back to the stock manifold the idle smoothed out (a little, the 261C is a lumpy cam). Oh, also my engine bay didn't get nearly as hot anymore. More than a few times I burned myself on the headers. Ouch!

Climbing the hills, which header is installed is of zero consequence. It's slow. S L O W, slow. You're climbing in 3rd up hill unless you put in a Vortec. But this is one place where the factory exhaust is MUCH better. Listening to what sounds like a ricer Honda for 20 minutes heading up to the Tunnel is irritating beyond words.

BTW, I highly recommend using SDORI (Roger Brown now) front bow shackle brackets. Those are the ones that bolt in place of the factory hooks in front. These fit any IFS mini truck or the first gen Tacoma.

http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Products.html

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Old 06-10-2015, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasVB View Post
That's what I thought too but DanS who has a couple 22RE 4runners up in Dumont said that his all can maintain 55 from Denver to Dumont. Maybe I have something going on to cause a bunch of drag in the drivetrain or the engine is a little tired and worn out? Then again DanS is also probably 100# lighter than me.
I've owned my truck since it had barely 100,000 on the clock and it's never been able to maintain 55 climbing from Denver to Evergreen (well, not at a realistic RPM, you could probably do 55 at 5,000 RPM). Totally factory stock, rebuilt with the Engnbldr head, anything in between, never. With my WilderNest and loaded for a week-long trip it's super slow, like passed by semi trucks slow.
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'91 Pickup - Imelda
'08 Tacoma TRD - Donna
'09 Kawasaki KLR650
'12 Gunnar Rockhound 29

"Our task must be to free ourselves from this prison by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature in its beauty. Nobody is able to achieve this completely, but the striving for such achievement is in itself a part of the liberation and a foundation for inner security. " --Albert Einstein
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