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  #11  
Old 10-04-2006, 03:21 PM
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if you're going the cb route (cheap bastard), do the math for the additional shortness/length (front over - rear under-sized) and sleeve it. It's not that critical.

j
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  #12  
Old 10-04-2006, 04:26 PM
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seems like the cheapest bastard way! I have the correct DOM for the front sleaving, the rear I just need inserts...


....in continuing with the CB way...

Here are the front mount/conversions...They have these adapters for sale from various places for about $35~$45 a pair...So for the front you'd be in close to $100. Being that I'm a CB, I decided to try my own for the front and upcoming bilsteins.

I used a scrap chunk of 2" X 3" X 1/4" square tubing, because thats what i had Cut it down to the measurement in the picture. 2" X 1.5" X 2" Popped the hole in the bottom for mounting, and holes through the side to mount the shock in.

Now the problem I *may* have is the ID mimght be a bit to large for the shock bushing. Worst case, I'll have to shim with washers, kinda but for the moment. I'll get them installed tonight and see how they all fit. but for now, the pics...pic is crappy cameraphone...
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  #13  
Old 10-04-2006, 09:32 PM
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now that you put all that work into them, go to www.aa-mfg.com


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  #14  
Old 10-05-2006, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green machine
now that you put all that work into them, go to www.aa-mfg.com


that would have been usefull information...


YESTERDAY!

yeah that is beyond cheap...5$, 5$ in shipping...lol It wasn't that there is hardly any work in the ones I built, but sheesh...Thats sweet. So I saved $10.00....
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  #15  
Old 10-08-2006, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJBen
My 14" Bilsteins came in today for the rear and the front I'll be running 12" Steins, I don't see any issues with the front unseating, the rear will be a problem. So I will retain those so I get some negative pull from it.

I know the rear will still pull out as the extended length is 35" on those 14" shocks...Worst case I will probably loose 1/2"~3.4" on compression s these bilsteins have a longer collapsed length than the Pro-comps that were on there.

I don't have any pics of the pieces not installed... But I may pull them out again to document it better. They basically look just like that 3d pic.

i'm wondering if I'm going to have any panhard issues with that much flex. I'm getting the parts to adjust them with this next week. I'll make a mount on the axle for the rear and the front I'm a bit baffelled.

Any reason to NOT thread that front solid rod??? and run a coupler setup? otherwise I'll just sleeve and then add inserts and go that route.
The droop issue will be interesting - retaining coils at the top may shorten their useful lift as standard coils are not designed to be stretched beyond static length. If it is only a small amount, then I'd retain on the axle end and let the coil come a bit down the tower.

I know this isn't super cheap, but now that you've endeavored to go long travel you should do the rear panhard with heims on both ends. On the front a cut and sleeve I'd think would be fine.

And it is time to sell those Slee arms for the cash you need to build the front
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nay
The droop issue will be interesting - retaining coils at the top may shorten their useful lift as standard coils are not designed to be stretched beyond static length. If it is only a small amount, then I'd retain on the axle end and let the coil come a bit down the tower.

I know this isn't super cheap, but now that you've endeavored to go long travel you should do the rear panhard with heims on both ends. On the front a cut and sleeve I'd think would be fine.

And it is time to sell those Slee arms for the cash you need to build the front

Yeah, I will only retain the bottom, I'll have to test flex again to make sure, but I don't think I'll be unseating that far now, should be around an 1.5" to 2"

i was thinking about that panhard as well, I'm getting the adjusters this week.

I was wondering about that front end Who wants to build a 3-link???
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  #17  
Old 10-09-2006, 10:47 AM
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man -

anything over 10" needs to be retained

(I know igge, "no ****" right?)

Anyway, you need to retain them front and rear. You will find that with the rear retained you will force the last bit of travel out of the radius arms, and the truck will be much more stable.

But don't listem to me, I haven't retained mine yet. However, I am still running those pukey ome's. If I ever re-do the shock mounts I will be welding in mounts for the spring retainers.

Ask bill morgan about the performance of my rover before and after spring retainment..

j
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  #18  
Old 10-09-2006, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green machine
man -

anything over 10" needs to be retained

(I know igge, "no ****" right?)
Tightie whities work for me!
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  #19  
Old 10-09-2006, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green machine
man -

anything over 10" needs to be retained

(I know igge, "no ****" right?)

Anyway, you need to retain them front and rear. You will find that with the rear retained you will force the last bit of travel out of the radius arms, and the truck will be much more stable.

But don't listem to me, I haven't retained mine yet. However, I am still running those pukey ome's. If I ever re-do the shock mounts I will be welding in mounts for the spring retainers.

Ask bill morgan about the performance of my rover before and after spring retainment..

j
I couldn't get my rear springs to unseat before with the 11" travel shocks, and I used ALL of that travel. And I have no idea how anyone could unseat the fronts on a stock 80 series setup, I can only unseat them when I did the hitch pin and unattached a shock, even then it was about 1.5"

The rear now, I probably will do that, but without 3-linking or something custom, the front won't unseat.
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2006, 02:01 PM
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It's not about the unseating, it's about physics.

Right now, your rear will droop out first and quicker, due to the bind up front, and the link design versus the radius design.

By retaining the springs, you are forcing the energy to be stored, then tranfered along the pivot axis of the weight distribution. This will force your front to compress/droop more, resulting in less body roll and more even weight distrobution for a more stable result.

It's not about loosing them in the buckets... ask christo.. he knows all about this on the short bus.
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