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  #21  
Old 10-25-2006, 09:00 PM
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you don't need a press... pound them in and suck them on with the nut. check after a short drive

File the fill plug til you can get a socket on it or use a screwdriver and then replace it.
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  #22  
Old 10-25-2006, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesintl
you don't need a press... pound them in and suck them on with the nut. check after a short drive
That was my intent but after dealing with the boogering I thought I might want to quit frustrating myself.

I guess I might feel different tomorrow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wesintl
File the fill plug til you can get a socket on it or use a screwdriver and then replace it.
Is this the screwdriver at an angle and hammer routine? The only indication it's ever been out is that it's boogered. Doesn't appear to have been out for a loooong time.
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  #23  
Old 10-25-2006, 09:22 PM
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Whoops, maybe that should make it into the FAQ...make sure you can take out the fill plug BEFORE you drain the oil...that saved me with my t-case and transmission, as my fill plugs were barely operable, had to pound a six-point socket on and turn VERY gingerly. Can you get a vice grips on it? As Wes said, make sure the studs are seated well, and then they get sucked the rest of the way on when you torque the wheel on. What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass?
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  #24  
Old 10-25-2006, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali
What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass?
More than puzzled myself, I've used brass drifts for this type of thing many times and never damaged anything before. Oh well, not much to do but replace them now. I'll pull them in and check and re-check and check again.

Save my energy for the diff plug
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  #25  
Old 10-26-2006, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali
Whoops, maybe that should make it into the FAQ...make sure you can take out the fill plug BEFORE you drain the oil...that saved me with my t-case and transmission, as my fill plugs were barely operable, had to pound a six-point socket on and turn VERY gingerly. Can you get a vice grips on it? As Wes said, make sure the studs are seated well, and then they get sucked the rest of the way on when you torque the wheel on. What are studs made out of? Something softer than brass?
Massaged the boogered studs with a thread chaser and new nuts, worked just fine.

The fill plug is still in. Nothing worked, tried all the tricks but it was/is kind of brittle and resisted all attempts to budge.

Resorted to filling via a hand pump and the drain hole. Yes, it worked.
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  #26  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:18 PM
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How did you fill the diff from the drain hole, did you turn the truck upside down?

Here's how I get the tough ones off: soak with PB blaster for several days. Use a good, 6-point 24mm socket, not a 12-point. and 1/2" drive. I've got one you can borrow if needed. File that bolt like Wes suggested until that socket will swallow the whole bolt head and rest on the diff cover. Put breaker bar on more or less parallel with the axle, aimed down a little, handle towards DS tire. Then use a small bottle jack (or similar) to push up on the handle from below. Use all your weight to press on the backside of the socket keeping it on the bolt, while you increase the upward (lefty looosy) pressure with the jack. the jack does the heavy work, you keep the socket in place.

Once you get it out upgrade to a new one, like a Corrola one with the 14mm hex driver or at a minumum, a new bolt & new crush washer.
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  #27  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:25 PM
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little bit of heat even from mapp gas goes a long way. I refuse to believe you can't get it off...
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  #28  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman
How did you fill the diff from the drain hole, did you turn the truck upside down?
Yep, just turned it over and filled it up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman
Here's how I get the tough ones off: soak with PB blaster for several days. Use a good, 6-point 24mm socket, not a 12-point. and 1/2" drive. I've got one you can borrow if needed. File that bolt like Wes suggested until that socket will swallow the whole bolt head and rest on the diff cover. Put breaker bar on more or less parallel with the axle, aimed down a little, handle towards DS tire. Then use a small bottle jack (or similar) to push up on the handle from below. Use all your weight to press on the backside of the socket keeping it on the bolt, while you increase the upward (lefty looosy) pressure with the jack. the jack does the heavy work, you keep the socket in place.
Outside of the jack (wish I knew that earlier) that's what I did. The bolt seemed kind of brittle. It's toast now. A guy can only try so many times before there's not much left which is where I'm at now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman
Once you get it out upgrade to a new one, like a Corrola one with the 14mm hex driver or at a minumum, a new bolt & new crush washer.
Being optimistic I have a new bolt and crush washer from Toyota. Being realistic it may be in my tool box for a long time.
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  #29  
Old 10-26-2006, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesintl
little bit of heat even from mapp gas goes a long way.
My son-in-law tried that in my absence knowing how I wouldn't do it myself. He picked up where I left off.
Again, not much left to work with...

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Originally Posted by wesintl
I refuse to believe you can't get it off...
Bet you can't either
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  #30  
Old 11-06-2006, 01:46 PM
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Chris-

Did you get everything worked out man?

Drew
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