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Old 04-17-2016, 07:23 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Default Corolla strut replacement

90,000 miles on the Corolla, I've blown out my driver side strut. Got my replacement from the dealer, it doesn't come with a new boot. Which I didn't find out until I got into it today and noticed both boots are ripped. Not too upset about it, just a couple hours of lost time redoing what I did today after I get new boots tomorrow (I got the strut off but not taken apart), plus having to reschedule the time to do it.

Anyway, kinda surprised to see the boots ripped at only 7 years/90,000 miles. CV boots last longer, but I guess I need to check the strut boots every 75,000 or so?

Related-how does the dust cover come off the top on the '08 and up models?

Also, do I need to loosen the axle nut to get the rotor off? It's a 12 point nut, maybe 27 or 30mm?
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Last edited by subzali; 04-18-2016 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 04-17-2016, 09:24 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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The rotor should fall off in your hand after you remove the caliper, at least on most FWD stuff, including Camrys. I would think the Corolla would not be different.

I gave up trying to replace strut cartridges (especially after I had a Japanese replacement fail in 3 months), and bought the Monroe Quick-struts from Rock Auto. They had a buy 3-get-1-free deal, and the Quick Struts include a new spring and bolt on in minutes. I read favorable reviews on a Camry forum, and they have held up well on my Camry.

What I found with trying to replace the strut assembly, piece-by-piece, is that the 'pieces' cost a fortune, and all of mine were shot - isolators, boots, bearings, etc. It sounds like you're well into the job, so I would keep going with your plan, but be aware of these quick struts in the future. My Camry had 200K+ on it, so if the new struts only make it 100K, I doubt the car will be still on the road at that time. My daughter and I did all 4 struts in a couple of hours, and that was nice.
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:21 PM
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PabloCruise PabloCruise is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
The rotor should fall off in your hand after you remove the caliper, at least on most FWD stuff, including Camrys. I would think the Corolla would not be different.

I gave up trying to replace strut cartridges (especially after I had a Japanese replacement fail in 3 months), and bought the Monroe Quick-struts from Rock Auto. They had a buy 3-get-1-free deal, and the Quick Struts include a new spring and bolt on in minutes. I read favorable reviews on a Camry forum, and they have held up well on my Camry.

What I found with trying to replace the strut assembly, piece-by-piece, is that the 'pieces' cost a fortune, and all of mine were shot - isolators, boots, bearings, etc. It sounds like you're well into the job, so I would keep going with your plan, but be aware of these quick struts in the future. My Camry had 200K+ on it, so if the new struts only make it 100K, I doubt the car will be still on the road at that time. My daughter and I did all 4 struts in a couple of hours, and that was nice.
I am with Steve on this - quick-strut assembly is much less brain damage. I looked at replacing inserts on our old Camry and quickly decided on quick-strut.
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Old 04-19-2016, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
The rotor should fall off in your hand after you remove the caliper, at least on most FWD stuff, including Camrys. I would think the Corolla would not be different.
Appears you are right, steps on a 2010 Corolla:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/32...ml#post3439194

Total aside, the rotors on our old 1996 Civic were held on with a couple of small bolts that required an impact driver to remove. They didn't just come off.

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Old 04-19-2016, 02:58 PM
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My little '94 Civic has those retention bolts, but no impact driver required. I probably anti-siezed them last time I was in there...
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Old 04-19-2016, 04:14 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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So the Corolla is the "S" package which I think has either different springs or different shocks or both. Not that it is probably noticeable vs. the LE and CE models, but maybe it is. So that's one reason why I'm preferring to go with the OEM replacement. I did coilover shock replacement on my Tundra using the spring compressor and it's not too bad.

I whacked the rotor with a rubber mallet a few times and it didn't move, but maybe it's rusted to the hub slightly. Just need a bolt to press it off using the threaded hole in the rotor.
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