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  #11  
Old 01-28-2007, 12:33 PM
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nakman nakman is offline
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No advice, but to the 2x12 rear quarter support!
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Old 01-28-2007, 01:02 PM
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No advice, but to the 2x12 rear quarter support!
Hehe...that's not a 2x12! That's a shock absorber :-)
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:51 PM
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Jeff,

I think what I would do is cut out the curved conture (the part that needs moved back) by cutting along the line that you have drawn, then remove enough additional material so to weld it back in where in needs to be to line up.

But, will this then leave you with a gap between the rocker panal and the door seal ledge? I can't tell from the pic if there is a lip/flange to fill the gap between the two pieces.

Kind of tricky to talk about describe with out being able to point and touch.

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  #14  
Old 01-28-2007, 08:55 PM
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if no one is near your with a plasma torch, take a trip down the hill to the west side harbor freight and pick up a "fender saw" small reciprocating saw and use about a 18 tooth or higher blade and cut it out.

Now for the weird part. after you cut out what you need, and weld where you can, do not patch with an irregular piece. use a square or circle pattern large enough to cover the area of the irregular patch. Now cut out the template square or circle, then trace onto the body. Then you cut inside that trace on the body. Then weld using the "divide by two" method, hitting the 4 points of the compass, away from the corners if a square or rectangle. then divide the distance by two each spot. Do not run a bead.

Or, do it your own way.


by doing a "regular" size patch, it will cut down on distortion from the HAF.

Another trick for patching narrow gaps is to place the patch from behind, and zap that to the edge from the front (finish side) and fill with weld. I am not a big fan of this though, unless the gap is less then an 1/4" wide.

Here are some examples from my brothers shop, about midway down this page: http://www.henleyskustompainting.com/project1.html
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jefsyl View Post
Jeff,

I think what I would do is cut out the curved conture (the part that needs moved back) by cutting along the line that you have drawn, then remove enough additional material so to weld it back in where in needs to be to line up.
That's exactly what I've done today.
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But, will this then leave you with a gap between the rocker panal and the door seal ledge? I can't tell from the pic if there is a lip/flange to fill the gap between the two pieces.
I'm actually using the piece I cut out as the filler piece. Been working it on my anvil with a hammer. Have it pretty close to the right shape now. After grinding the welds down, I'll smooth it out with body filler.
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  #16  
Old 01-28-2007, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by green machine View Post
if no one is near your with a plasma torch, take a trip down the hill to the west side harbor freight and pick up a "fender saw" small reciprocating saw and use about a 18 tooth or higher blade and cut it out.
I have a sawzall, but it's way too heavy duty, even with the 24 tooth blade I have for it; for precise cuts I use an air powered thin (1/16") cutoff wheel. Someday I'll splurge for a plasma cutter...

Quote:
Originally Posted by green machine View Post
Now for the weird part. after you cut out what you need, and weld where you can, do not patch with an irregular piece. use a square or circle pattern large enough to cover the area of the irregular patch. Now cut out the template square or circle, then trace onto the body. Then you cut inside that trace on the body. Then weld using the "divide by two" method, hitting the 4 points of the compass, away from the corners if a square or rectangle. then divide the distance by two each spot. Do not run a bead.
I *think* what you're talking about is the technique I have used for all my successful sheet metal welds, which is as you describe. Beads are for heavy, thick stuff like bumpers, but warps sheet metal. I do a little MIG blast about 1/8" diameter no less than an inch or so apart, then come back and do more after the metal cools. I like your brother's rotisserie, on the Land Cruiser List we've often talked about making one of those for doing FJ40 tubs.
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Originally Posted by green machine View Post
Another trick for patching narrow gaps is to place the patch from behind, and zap that to the edge from the front (finish side) and fill with weld. I am not a big fan of this though, unless the gap is less then an 1/4" wide.
My plan is to butt weld rather than lap weld, so top versus bottom isn't really applicable, other than it's easier to manage the puddle from top versus bottom. Here's an example of the technique I wrote about above:
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  #17  
Old 01-28-2007, 09:39 PM
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Below is where I cut out the offending section, and below that is smithing the cut section's bend out to be reapplied to fill the gap, at the correct profile/angle. It's unclear whether this piece will work and I may have to simply cut a new piece out of fresh metal. I clamped and unclamped the original B-pillar/lip onto the top of the new rockers several times during this process, and getting the curve and angle using the cut-out piece just right doesn't seem in the works.
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  #18  
Old 01-29-2007, 07:04 AM
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awesome.

on those fillets, you may want to start the puddle in the middle rather than on one side and then pulling the puddle for the spots, less warpage, and more strength. You won't need to play with the puddle much, but a slight "whip" will give more size and a flatter bead, with less haf than the "cross connect" method.

is this a 110v machine? if so, good on ya. What filler material are you using? Esab makes some wire especially made for low amperage sheet work, that gives a flatter bead.
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  #19  
Old 01-29-2007, 07:25 AM
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Sorry I posted up so late, Jeff. I have a plasma cutter. Looks like you no longer need it!
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  #20  
Old 01-29-2007, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green machine View Post
awesome.

on those fillets, you may want to start the puddle in the middle rather than on one side and then pulling the puddle for the spots, less warpage, and more strength. You won't need to play with the puddle much, but a slight "whip" will give more size and a flatter bead, with less haf than the "cross connect" method.
Thanks John; I do generally start in the middle and then whip, but it kind of depends on the angle of the parts (90░) in the above example and the angle of the workpiece (from top versus side versus <shudder> from underneath).

Quote:
Originally Posted by green machine View Post
is this a 110v machine? if so, good on ya. What filler material are you using? Esab makes some wire especially made for low amperage sheet work, that gives a flatter bead.
Indeed, it's a Millermatic 130, using .023 solid with 25/75 CO2/Argon. The wire's whatever they sell at US Welding off Santa Fe and I25. Not sure what you mean by "filler": I do the spots, then grind 'em down flush, then for paint prep I use regular bondo and sandpaper.

Below are some more representative shots of the type of technique I was referring to. These were from when I was repairing the box section of the floor. I was hoping to get some more progress done this evening, but between CM preparations and family matters it looks like it'll have to wait.
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