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  #11  
Old 02-26-2007, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
...
I'm going with Toyota short block parts I think, which means I'm sure the price isn't gonna be cheap. I'm not buying into the 'as good as OEM' statements, that's what was said about the timing parts that caused this headache. It doesn't go in the bottom end unless the box says Toyota or Aisin.
You're right. Engnbldr stuff isn't as good as OEM.
It's better. And cheaper. No kiddin'.

I know lots of folks say that and don't deliver, but that doesn't mean the claim is prima facie false in itself. Ted's stuff is proven and he stands behind it.

So what's your compression? What's the leak down?

BTW, a rebuild in the engine compartment of a 22RE is about 14.765 times as hard as on an engine stand. Shoot, we are even pulling the motor to do my son's timing chain. (Of course, he needs a new rear mainseal... but still...).
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2007, 12:36 PM
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140?
No touchee. Golden. My son's is 138 across all four at 150K, my other son's is less at 100K. Lookit what you just saved!

I forget, are you burning oil? If so, call Ted or Todd and ask about the adviseability of just rings. Common in motorcycles, not so much in cars, so ask 'em. That assumes the blue is happening on accel, rather than decel. If decel, your new head will take care of it.

Ted's been around doing motors for over 40 years. Used to race dirt track on built Chevies and Fords. He's BTDT. He started building 22REs when they were a new design, and loves the stout little motors for what they can do reliably. Chat with either Ted or Todd and go with their advice, tell them your constraints and plans.
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  #13  
Old 02-27-2007, 07:17 AM
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He's good at securing quality suppliers' direct relationships (no middlemen). He doesn't actually do any casting or forging, but he is very picky. Not a big ego either, though IMHO he could be justifiably.

Your startup smoke does sound like valve seals/guides. The 'all the time' black smoke sounds like something else is going on. How clean is it on emissions testing? Sounds rich. Is it injected? EGR function? Somebody who has more tuning experience than me with 22REs should pipe in here. Run that one past Ted or Todd also.

Shouldn't even need 91 octane, much less ping on it. Especially at this altitude.
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  #14  
Old 02-27-2007, 08:34 AM
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140 is good. Recall you need to add 15% to your measured numbers for elevation at 5000'.
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2007, 08:55 AM
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Dave, in a week or two we are going to pull my younger son's motor to do the timing chain, HG, and rear mainseal (and most likely clutch while we are in there). You are welcome to come over to our motor pullin' party if you like.

This weekend and maybe next we will be doing a SAS on my older son's truck too.
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  #16  
Old 03-04-2007, 05:13 PM
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Dave, in order to get it out you will at a minimum have to pull the front grill area; kinda like when you came by when I was trying to stab my tranny and you convinced me to bite the bullet and pull my seats and tranny hump to get at it from the top.

Having done it both ways on Land Cruisers, pulling the engine with tranny and t-case attached versus disengaging the tranny from the bellhousing, I will report that both seem to be about the same work/effort. Extrapolating these experiences to a 22R/22RE with tranny/t-case, I would suggest one of those attachments to the cherry picker which moves the center point back and forth; I found it invaluable when I pulled and reinstalled my F with tranny/t-case attached. Good luck and happy cruisin'!
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  #17  
Old 03-05-2007, 07:18 AM
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No, you don't have to pull the grille with a 22RE. Just remove the fan and pull the hood and the radiator. To undo the bellhousing bolts at the top (x2), undo the crossmember (4 bolts), lower the tranny onto a jackstand, use about three of the longest extensions you can find with a swivel fitting (not a u-joint wobbly, too wobbly) right at a 17mm socket IIRC (I don't think it's 19, could be wrong).

Once the bolts are out, you can reattach the crossmember if you want. Obviously you want a jack under the front of the tranny. I wouldn't pull engine + tranny out in one unit personally, adds to the difficulty and maneuverability.
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  #18  
Old 03-05-2007, 09:15 AM
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  #19  
Old 03-05-2007, 12:56 PM
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I'd see if you can rent or borrow one. They take up a lot of garage space.
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2007, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Anyone have a recommendation on an engine stand?
I will give you and old three wheel stand I don't use anymore. It fine for small block chitty's and normal engines but way to tippy for Cruiser engines. I'll bring it Wednesday if you want.
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