Truck running rough and not driveable - help - Page 4

subzali · #31 02-19-2007, 11:29 PM

Check out my thread on MUD for some thoughts down near the bottom of the first page and Jim C's comment on page 2. I'm learning a lot of new things about the 2F engine, and I'm sure once I pull the head I'm going to learn a lot more.

subzali · #32 02-20-2007, 11:57 PM

Sorry, nothing really new. Is this spark plug length (from the washer to the end of the threads) right? It's about 0.675 on plug #4.

subzali · #33 03-03-2007, 09:44 PM

Got the head off tonight with my dad, I forgot my cable to connect my camera to my computer, but I'll post pictures Sunday. Imagine those hose clamps that have the springy wire and the bolt with the 10mm hex/philips head that compress it, and imagine that the bolt is stuck into cylinder number 5's intake and keeping the valve open while the spring is stuck into cylinder number 6's intake and keeping the valve open. The cylinders appear to be okay, but the piston faces are pretty banged up. Valves appear to be okay, but who knows about the seating surfaces. We were able to compress the springs and get the pieces out, but I have no clue how that got in there. I had the carb/intake out during the summer a year and a half ago, but we cleaned out the intake and made sure it was clear. I *might* have had the carb off since then, but definitely don't remember anything falling in there, and I know I was pretty careful. I don't think there is any way this thing could have fit down the throat of the carb. Also, since I last had the carb off I've done Chinaman's, Triple Bypass, driven to Buena Vista/Leadville, did the Ghost Town Run, driven to Westcliffe/up the road to the Crestone Peak and Needle, and driven to work a LOT this summer, not to mention a bunch of other smaller trips here and there. I guess I coudn't be happier about the location of where it decided to let go, but still it's weird.

So the question is: what would YOU do?

60wag · #34 03-04-2007, 06:33 AM

I'd check for any damage to the cylinder walls. If the cyls look good and the dings in the face of the pistons are minimal, I'd call the block good and leave it alone. As for the head... the valves and seats might look ok but if they leak, its going to run poorly. You might consider taking the head to a shop for a full valve job. New valve stem seals, springs and even surfacing the head shouldn't be much more than 250$.

treerootCO · #35 03-04-2007, 06:45 AM

so how did one clamp get into multiple cylinders?

subzali · #36 03-04-2007, 07:29 AM

You show me how a hose clamp can get into my intake manifold, and I'll show you a hose clamp getting into 3 cylinders...

treerootCO · #37 03-04-2007, 07:46 AM

squirrels did it...insert photochop squirrel holding hose clamp. (I had to remove photoshop from my work PC.

subzali · #38 03-04-2007, 08:34 AM

Or maybe kitties did it..."I'm in ur engine, sprinkling hose clamps down ur intake..."

subzali · #39 03-04-2007, 08:55 PM

Pictures:
-Valves 5 and 6. yummy.
-Cylinder #4 on left and #5 on right.
-Cylinder #5 on left and #6 on right.
-Cylinder #1
-Here's the parts. The bolt was in #5 and the curly part in the first picture was only part of the spring. The nut and the part that broke off the spring are gone, probably one of those somehow ended up in #1. We looked down the intake ports when we had the manifold off and before we put it back together, I wasn't missing any hose clamps...it was probably something I just overlooked though...sigh

Okay to get a valve job and get new plugs and put it back together? Are the piston faces something to worry about? The cylinder walls look good and polished.

nakman · #40 03-04-2007, 10:38 PM

Oh man... wow. sorry, Matt.