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  #11  
Old 04-05-2007, 11:26 PM
SROR/AKA 2BAD SROR/AKA 2BAD is offline
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swap out to 60 rear springs and reweld the rear shackle hanger.
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  #12  
Old 04-06-2007, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by farnhamstj View Post
You could take out the shortest leaf if you never load up with too much weight. I don't think it would change the ride height except for thickness of the leaf. While you got it appart. repaint and grease between all the leaves. I think what your seeing is mostly a weight issue. 2f in front, nada in rear. Put 300 lbs of crap in the bad and take another picture. Or buy a 100.

I've got a 350 under the hood, so a little less weight I'm going to pull those craptastic shock as they are crappy gabrielle/knockoffs that are blown and leaking...see if that with a better shackle will help any.....

well when I buy a 100 then my front won't flex
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  #13  
Old 04-06-2007, 10:20 AM
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I've got a 350 under the hood, so a little less weight I'm going to pull those craptastic shock as they are crappy gabrielle/knockoffs that are blown and leaking...see if that with a better shackle will help any.....

well when I buy a 100 then my front won't flex

What about longer shocks and some cantilever shackles?

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  #14  
Old 04-06-2007, 10:32 AM
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If the thought of flopping doesn't disturb you, gopher it! They can be exciting when they unload. It does beg the question, what is the hanging down wheel actually doing for you if it bears no weight?

I've got nifty pix of a SOA CJ5, nicely built, with cantilever shackles, as it is unweighting on Spring Creek.... and suddenly rolling. Flopsiedoodle. The unweighting allows the truck to develop inertia, then when it fully extends, the truck carries the tire with the greatest of ease- right up in the air. At least an extending leaf has a gradual unweighting to it.

Generally to get more flex out of springs that can still hold up the truck, you would be talking going longer. Obviously you can't go longer behind the axle. You could install a spring hanger further forward. Alcan can fab up springs to your specification and they stand behind their products.

You can remove a leaf, but do so with care. You will stress the main leaf a bit more, and can be more likely to S-bend the leaf (evil). Obviously it can be done successfully however.

Or go 3-link... or 4-link... A little welding, a couple coils, how hard could it be??

Yeah, the lardbutt 80 is gonna flex the rear more...
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2007, 10:33 AM
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Hey, you wanted rear flex help, you said nothing about the front.
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  #16  
Old 04-06-2007, 10:58 AM
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Yeah I'm not going with any wacky shackles, don't like the unloading thought

It appears that the 4link/3 link would be the best setup...I've heard that running Jeep TJ coils works good as they are the better suited to the weight....

I'm just to worried about the angles/geometry...love the ride/flex of coils tho. Hmmm...I could just scrap up some parts from an FJ80

good point farmhan!

I think my lardbutt 80 flexxed pretty good in the rear (TJ's little sister modeling)
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  #17  
Old 04-10-2007, 11:36 AM
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longer springs...


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  #18  
Old 04-10-2007, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustanutley View Post
longer springs...


Nice flex!


I put longer rear shackles on, slightly longer, as the factory ones don't have much swing, opened up the retainers.

On a highlift, I verified that is wasn't the shock limiting, unhooked the shock and still had like 3.5" of droop...they are pretty angled...and shot...

I'll try to do a test flex again and see where i'm at...if any better

i guess 4 link would be the "easy" answer....but it's not exactly cheap...


I was looking into picking up components from the 80 series rear...just triangulate the uppers...OR use 80 lowers upper and lower, triangulate the top and ditch the panhard....thoughts???
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2007, 08:46 AM
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4link would not be nearly as easy as those nice-flexing longer leafs...
Triangling the top and going 3-link would be mighty spiffy though.
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2007, 10:23 AM
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I'm not overly impressed with most linked suspensions people just piece together. You really have to do your research and get all the geometry perfect to end up with something that works right. Most the time getting that link geometry right involves building the chassis around your suspension. I have wheeled with a lot of people that don't have their roll center high enough and there junk flops way too easy off camber. I have also wheeled with a lot of people that don't have their squat values even close to dialed and their pile hops like crazy, while my leafed rear end with proper setup on the wrap bar hooks with no hopping involved. One particular person had the proffits kit and the thing just didn't work, which is why i'm not a fan of prefabricated link geometry. Not trying to steer anyone away from getting their kit all the brackets and stuff is great but make the geometry work with your particular truck, COG wheelbase, that sort of stuff.

I would not use 80 parts all those links are way too short to start with, your roll center and anti-squat would sucků
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