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Old 04-07-2007, 09:21 PM
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corsair23 corsair23 is offline
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Default ARB Bull Bar, Synthetic Line, and Hawse Fairlead

HELP

I know, what's new right? Need some technical advice/help. I've searched and either I'm one of the first doing this (hard to believe) or it is so obvious that only a dunce like me needs to ask the question...

I'm putting my XD9000 on the ARB Bull Bar and using a Hawse fairlead (vs. rollers) to go with synthetic line.

Well the Hawse fairlead sits low in the bottom bull bar opening. When looking at it from behind, the bottom lip of the fairlead opening on the bull bar is maybe 1/8"-1/4" below the level of the bottom fairlead opening.

It Looks like I could move the winch up on the bull bar and use the next higher set of bolt holes (top ones). But to do so would required that I drill two new bottom bolt holes in the ARB for the fairlead and winch to bolt to.

In my searches all I could find was talk of mounting a roller fairlead to the ARB w/ a M12000 and that you should drill the fairlead for mounting and to NOT drill the bumper. No mention of why though that I could see other than that is the way to do it.

So, do I just leave the Hawse sitting low and looking kind of funny or do I move the winch up and drill two new lower bolt holes for the fairlead and winch?



Signed,

Dazed in HR

P.S. it is frickin cold out there
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Last edited by corsair23; 04-08-2007 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 04-07-2007, 09:46 PM
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You need one of these

Several folks make them or you can get creative and mount yours higher via 3/8" threaded scab plate between winch and bumper...
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Old 04-08-2007, 12:32 AM
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UB,

That fairlead is basically what I have, only a purdier one

So you are saying don't drill new holes into the ARB? Maybe that weakens the bar or something?

Here is a professionally mocked up picture of my 'problem' The red lines point to the existing top holes I am using. The yellow lines point to the top holes I could use if I drilled two new lower bolt holes marked by the yellow dots.

As you can see, there is quite a bit of open space above the fairlead. I'm not so concerned with the look (although it does detract from the 'purdiness') as I am the synthetic rope rubbing on the bottom part of the ARB fairlead opening. The bottom holes that the fairlead uses bolt to the bottom bolt holes of the XD9000 (probably obvious to you guys).

Maybe the top two bolt holes that I'm not using (yet) aren't there for a winch mount? ARB install directions leave a lot to be desired for a person like me. I need the Slee level of "idiot proof" instructions

.
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:28 AM
leiniesred leiniesred is offline
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leave winch low. Closer to the framerails = less torque on bumper. Did you wind you winchline in bottom first? If you wind it in top first, then the fairlead will want to be higher (and you fight the brake all the time spooling in.)

Drill new holes for fairlead = best solution, but from the picture, it all looks fine to me in the normal holes. my rockstomper fairlead opening is in the same place as my roller fairlead was.
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Old 04-08-2007, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leiniesred View Post
leave winch low. Closer to the framerails = less torque on bumper. Did you wind you winchline in bottom first? If you wind it in top first, then the fairlead will want to be higher (and you fight the brake all the time spooling in.)

Drill new holes for fairlead = best solution, but from the picture, it all looks fine to me in the normal holes. my rockstomper fairlead opening is in the same place as my roller fairlead was.
Haven't got the winchline on yet but it will go in bottom first. Everything actually lines up real well between the winch and the fairlead, it is just that the fairlead sits so low in the fairlead opening on the ARB, leaving a lot of space at the top and just barely (maybe 1/8"-1/4") covers the bottom opening. Moving it up that 1/2" or so to the next set of bolt holes and drilling new lower holes would do the trick I think. I just can't seem to find any information on whether it is ok or not to drill those holes?

I'm just trying to avoid putting it on just to take it back off later to redo it deal...Basically it is ready to go on and the wife wants the garage back
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater

Last edited by corsair23; 04-08-2007 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:38 PM
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Just thinking outloud, but the rope, once spooled out will enter into the slot at a different "height" than when it is fully loaded and all spooled up. Clear as mud?

What I am saying is my drum's diameter changes with a full spool and an empty spool.

Could that account for the space difference?

Just a thought.

Drew
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:32 PM
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If you look at that fairlead I posted you will see that the holes are machined lower thus raising the fairlead to fit feet forward winch mounting on an ARB bumper.


Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
UB,

That fairlead is basically what I have, only a purdier one

So you are saying don't drill new holes into the ARB? Maybe that weakens the bar or something?

Here is a professionally mocked up picture of my 'problem' The red lines point to the existing top holes I am using. The yellow lines point to the top holes I could use if I drilled two new lower bolt holes marked by the yellow dots.

As you can see, there is quite a bit of open space above the fairlead. I'm not so concerned with the look (although it does detract from the 'purdiness') as I am the synthetic rope rubbing on the bottom part of the ARB fairlead opening. The bottom holes that the fairlead uses bolt to the bottom bolt holes of the XD9000 (probably obvious to you guys).

Maybe the top two bolt holes that I'm not using (yet) aren't there for a winch mount? ARB install directions leave a lot to be desired for a person like me. I need the Slee level of "idiot proof" instructions

.
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Stay on the Trail!
I'm the God-fearing, gun-toting, American flag-waving, conservative you were warned about!
Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
I need an FJ40....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Cruisers are superior
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  #8  
Old 04-08-2007, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
If you look at that fairlead I posted you will see that the holes are machined lower thus raising the fairlead to fit feet forward winch mounting on an ARB bumper.


Dang...Right you are UB. Didn't notice that

Guess the proper approach to take then is to mount it all up and see how what I have works...Swapping out the fairlead down the road should it come to that would be quick and easy. And no new holes in the new ARB


And Drew, you are absolutely right on your thought. So I'll have to see how it all comes together in the end.
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:36 AM
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Man, that's quite the winch install... spindles off and everything!
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Man, that's quite the winch install... spindles off and everything!
Nah, not mine...Borrowed the picture from MUD as it was the best one I could find showing the issue. Not even sure the picture was about the bull bar...

Quick update to my problem. I called ARB directly and asked about drilling into the ARB. The guy keep going back to a roller fairlead spiel and that I should drill the fairlead. In the end I finally got my question across and he said it should not cause any problems drilling the ARB for the two new lower holes for the winch and fairlead. Just to make sure to touch up the paint which I will do.

I'm sure the best thing would probably be to get the style of fairlead UB pointed me too but I really want to use the bling Slee one so tonight I'll break out the drill

Nothing like a noob like me breaking trail on a mod . I keep reading with disdain all the folks on MUD that said they were able to install their ARB in an hour or less...I've got about 8x that into mine right now. I know I'm slow but I didn't know I was that slow
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Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs

:

"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper

"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket

"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater
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