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  #11  
Old 11-26-2007, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by nakman View Post
I've also kept the gears that came out of my 80.. they will be a lot like the gears that Treeroot takes out of his 80. Matt you can have them if you want to go that route. Yes it requires some skill to set up gears, but it's nothing a lot of folks in the club can't handle.

But why rebuild your axle, why not just swap the whole thing? Would you be happier if you had a set of 60 axles under there instead? Like here's a set.. comes with a backup 2F & 4 speed. http://denver.craigslist.org/car/489700117.html

Great swap but has two issues.....FJ-60's have 3:70's and front springs need to be outboarded.
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I need an FJ40....
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  #12  
Old 11-26-2007, 12:49 PM
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and I don't want the width and I think I'm going to go full-floater in the future...
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  #13  
Old 11-26-2007, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
Great swap but has two issues.....FJ-60's have 3:70's and front springs need to be outboarded.
Oh yeah you right.. alright Matt scratch that, here's a set of full floaters for you http://denver.craigslist.org/car/483520710.html

may as well swap over the 1fz too.
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  #14  
Old 11-26-2007, 01:18 PM
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meh.












It's an 80.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #15  
Old 11-26-2007, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
First trail breakage. Now I'm wondering what I need to do. I have a coarse spline pinion on my 4:11 setup currently. Thinking about options:

1. Get a new ring and pinion (and bearing? other stuff?) and put it in my current 3rd member, but I think that requires expertise in setting up gears right?

2. Get a whole coarse spline 4:11 3rd member and stick it in.

3. Get a fine spline (late 4:11 model FJ40 or FJ62) pinion and ring set and put it in my current 3rd member.

4. Get a fine spline 3rd member and stick it in.

Not knowing anything yet about full-floating rear axles, but thinking that sometime down the line I would like to go that route with Toyota cable lockers, does anybody know off-hand if there are any compatibility issues with those components and a 3rd member that they would be installed in? I cannot come up with any reason why there would be issues, but...
No question, #2 will be by far the quickest, easiest and cheapest. I've picked up coarse spline 3rds for anywhere from $50 to free. You can put any full size cruiser 3rd member into a FF, just leave out the c-clips :-)

FYI, having owned both the newer and the earlier FF rears, I like the earlier ones much better.
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  #16  
Old 11-27-2007, 07:48 AM
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You mean the one on your FJ45 vs. the one on the HZJ75?
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #17  
Old 11-27-2007, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
You mean the one on your FJ45 vs. the one on the HZJ75?
Correct. Was into the HZJ75 WAY too often, but recently did a routine service on the 1978 FJ45 and found the design much easier to work on. The HZJ had a very similar FF hub/spindle design as a USA spec FZJ80, but had FJ60-style drum brakes. I like the earlier seal design much better, and I liked that I could use a regular hub socket on the hex adjuster/ and locking nut instead of the newer 80 style design.

A major flaw in both designs (which is also present in the cruiser front FF hub design, which almost never sees as much torque) is the way two little the dowel pins see almost all the torque. Once they snap off, they "waller" the holes they press in to and the hub is never as strong. There are three fixes for this, but of course none are stock.
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  #18  
Old 11-28-2007, 09:38 AM
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Wanted to give a public thanks to Ige for helping me get the most major part I need to get back on the road! Thank you! I'm just going to go with a coarse spline 4:11 for now, it's been good to me so far and I'll keep future wheeling under control, gotta get new oil seals for the front end, rear end, rebuild/replace a couple rear wheel cylinders, pull the t-case and inspect/likely replace the front output bearing (I get scary noises when I come off the throttle in 4hi @ 45 mph or so), and inspect the other gears for when I ran out of oil. Put in new drain plugs in the diffs, t-case and tranny, reinstall the Lockright and (hopefully) get some new rear springs and new shackles all around. Whew!

Thanks again everybody!
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 10-11-2012 at 01:56 PM.
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2007, 10:14 AM
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Matt, I just did rear brakes on my 40 and CDan on MUD was able to get me all four OEM wheel cylinders and new shoes for around $250. Sure beat rebuilding those wheel cylinders. Let me know if you need a hand setting up those brakes.

The 2.5" Old Man Emu Springs Kevin has would work nicely on your rig too.
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  #20  
Old 12-04-2007, 09:17 AM
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pictures of broken pinion? did the u-joint bind to make the break happen?
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