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  #21  
Old 12-04-2007, 12:01 PM
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No pictures yet, maybe this weekend. I didn't take a close look at it but my buddy said it wasn't a shear failure, it failed in bending (i.e. I came down on the rock and that snapped it - it wasn't over-torque from suddenly gaining traction)
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  #22  
Old 12-11-2007, 10:16 PM
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Well my camera decided it wanted to stop working, but progress has started on getting my truck back together. The first step was making space in the barn, which my dad and I did last night. It's still dirt floor, so we put down some plywood sheeting, layed a couple tarps over it, then drove on top of it.

-Pulled my rear driveshaft and the front output nose cone last night. The bearing race in the nose cone has scoring and pitting on it, not sure what that's about...but going to put it back together for now. I'm trying to figure out what would make noise ONLY when the shifter is engaged in 4hi, but not 2hi. Hubs locked in both instances, it ONLY makes noise in 4hi. Thoughts?

-Tonight I tore both front axles down to the steering knuckles, going to replace the oil seals (they were both leaking after only 2 years?) and put them back together after I put Ige's 3rd member on (thanks again!).

-Also tore down rear axle and pulled 3rd member to reseal all that stuff, since we did a quick Permatex job on the side of the road - I need to put my locker back in anyway and replace a couple studs and nuts for the 3rd member - it seems they've been hit by rocks?

-Pulled the ebrake drum as well because even after rebuilding it it still does not engage satisfactorily. It looked clean, just like when I put it together, so now I'm thinking there must be an adjustment in the cab that's out of whack, allowing me to pull the lever all the way out without engaging the drum?

-I also cracked my 8274 apart, and it's kinda gross looking inside there. I guess I clean it out best I can and add new oil (it looks kinda low, but I have nothing to gauge that by)

-Also have to replace the brake booster and a couple wheel cylinders, replace the rear axle seals, replace my drain plugs with allen head plugs, paint my frame gussets and license plate bracket I got for the bumper, and get a new skid plate fabbed up (Jim? ), and that should be it! Whew that's a lot of work...I'm going to try and not break anything anymore...
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #23  
Old 12-12-2007, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by subzali View Post

-Pulled the ebrake drum as well because even after rebuilding it it still does not engage satisfactorily. It looked clean, just like when I put it together, so now I'm thinking there must be an adjustment in the cab that's out of whack, allowing me to pull the lever all the way out without engaging the drum?
...
where the ebrake cable goes through the firewall, there is a nut on each side to adjust in cable/housing in and out of the vehicle. move the cable more into the engine compartment to tighten it up. also, do you have the little adjuster on the ebrake cranked out?
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  #24  
Old 12-12-2007, 04:20 PM
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yep I've tried that mucho times and always has same result Since it's never really worked since I've owned the truck I finally figured it might be something else
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #25  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:17 AM
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Got parts on order, front and rear diff housings cleaned up, broken pinion removed from case, breather extensions up and coming...

One question - how does one remove the ring gear from the carrier? I'm having a little bit of a hard time finding a leverage point so I can really yank on those M14 bolts.

Okay two questions - trying to get the pinion bearing off, it's not coming easy - should I just quit fiddling with it and do a destructive removal method (puller and/or whacker bar thingy )? I hear that that's easier, but the FSM would suggest that you can remove it without destruction.

Setting up gears is gonna be fun!
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #26  
Old 12-16-2007, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Got parts on order, front and rear diff housings cleaned up, broken pinion removed from case, breather extensions up and coming...

One question - how does one remove the ring gear from the carrier? I'm having a little bit of a hard time finding a leverage point so I can really yank on those M14 bolts.

Okay two questions - trying to get the pinion bearing off, it's not coming easy - should I just quit fiddling with it and do a destructive removal method (puller and/or whacker bar thingy )? I hear that that's easier, but the FSM would suggest that you can remove it without destruction.

Setting up gears is gonna be fun!
Answer to first question: Air impact wrench has worked best for me. If not available, you'll have to make a makeshift SST to slip a big a$$ breaker bar to hold the sucker while you honk on them with your other breaker bar with the socket on the end.

Second question, big a$$ press to get the race off. The one down by the pinion gear itself is always a PITA. Heating it up can help, it expands it some.

Are you putting new gears in? Are you installing new bearings?
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  #27  
Old 12-16-2007, 01:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Got parts on order, front and rear diff housings cleaned up, broken pinion removed from case, breather extensions up and coming...

One question - how does one remove the ring gear from the carrier? I'm having a little bit of a hard time finding a leverage point so I can really yank on those M14 bolts.

Okay two questions - trying to get the pinion bearing off, it's not coming easy - should I just quit fiddling with it and do a destructive removal method (puller and/or whacker bar thingy )? I hear that that's easier, but the FSM would suggest that you can remove it without destruction.

Setting up gears is gonna be fun!

Matt, The pinion bearing will come off easy with a clamshell (pictured below)and a press. If you use a large vise you can clamp the carrier by the case. You can also use a cheater of some kind slipped through the side gear windows of the case.

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  #28  
Old 12-16-2007, 07:42 AM
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Thanks guys, yeah Jeff I thought of the impact wrench as I was lying in bed last night

I'm gonna see how much a new bearing is, and since I need to buy a few new tools anyway I'll just get it all at once.

I'm replacing the broken pinion, but I only want to use the ring and pinion from the donor diff I was given. I think the bearings look good, so I'm going to reuse those, unless there's a reason not to. I think I'm gonna destroy the pinion bearing getting it off, so I'll have to replace that one and get a new race.
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TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #29  
Old 12-16-2007, 03:46 PM
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Hi Matt, I have a clamshell as Kevin has pictured above if you'd like to borrow it.
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  #30  
Old 12-18-2007, 08:25 AM
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Matt Miller
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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