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  #11  
Old 01-07-2008, 07:54 AM
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Drew, looks great and will make a fine addition to the 40. 1 question for you. Is the pull points surface welded or pass through to the back of the bumper? I know this can be debated on to how safe it is. Just for knowledge base, I was wondering. later Robbie
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:55 PM
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Robbie, I did surface weld the tabs on. I had seen it done lots of places and figured that made it okay

Honestly, it is pretty debated, but I feel like with the 220 running maxed out i was getting lots of burn through to the back of the .25" bumper. It was glowing pretty bright orangish yellow after each pass, and the rubberized coating/paint vaporized, so I feel like they are on there pretty good.

Think I should be worried? FWIW, I have only ever had to really tug on one of those hooks twice in all my days out. I figured these will see normal to moderate use but I do plan on adding a snatch block to my gear to open up my options a bit during recovery.

Drew
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:59 AM
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how did you prep the pull points? that's the real question. If you beveled them, ran a root pass, then stitched over it, then you're fine. This is the only area I was ever really anal about on a bumper I made. I always used stick, with 7xxx rod, then stitched over with mig.

I did just do mig once, and it held through a competition, but I beveled a full 45deg 1/4" then back filled.

j
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2008, 08:01 AM
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I do not know if you should worry or not. You will have to decide that. I personally would not do any real hard tugs on it. Your 40 is lighter than a 80, I would never reccomend this on a 80. I think the biggest reason not to do surfaqce welds is the potiential of it coming off under a hard yank that can develop lots of kenetic force. Winching off it with syn line would be my perfered method. I think I would also use the rubber band kenetic tug straps if it was a 80 as well(insead of the yellow flat straps). Of course this is my opinion and I am sure others may chime in. I can explain more on friday if you show up if needed. Even in my training they suggest to find a different place to do dyminic tugs off of if you suspect surface welding tabs.
You will have to be the one to determine if you need to worry about this.
Later Robbie
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Old 01-08-2008, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
Looks great but shouldn't you be working on finishing up my trailer first before you start on other projects?
bwahahahahahaha

Those are some really pretty MIG welds bro
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Old 01-08-2008, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
I do not know if you should worry or not. You will have to decide that. I personally would not do any real hard tugs on it. Your 40 is lighter than a 80, I would never reccomend this on a 80. I think the biggest reason not to do surfaqce welds is the potiential of it coming off under a hard yank that can develop lots of kenetic force. Winching off it with syn line would be my perfered method. I think I would also use the rubber band kenetic tug straps if it was a 80 as well(insead of the yellow flat straps). Of course this is my opinion and I am sure others may chime in. I can explain more on friday if you show up if needed. Even in my training they suggest to find a different place to do dyminic tugs off of if you suspect surface welding tabs.
You will have to be the one to determine if you need to worry about this.
Later Robbie
You could cut slots in the back of the bumper in the center on the blocks and weld it up from th backside without redoing what you have done. That would add significant strength. Need to use the mill?
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  #17  
Old 01-08-2008, 09:01 AM
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I would think you OK as your pictures show a decent bevel for the root weld. Attchment points are always spooky when you think about it! Not many bumpers out there have the frame attachment welded through the bumper so technically isn't that the same principle?

Quote:
Originally Posted by IanB View Post
You could cut slots in the back of the bumper in the center on the blocks and weld it up from th backside without redoing what you have done. That would add significant strength. Need to use the mill?
That what I was thinking....take your angle grinder or die grinder and slot the backside and do a hot fill weld if in doubt.
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  #18  
Old 01-08-2008, 10:28 AM
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Not to worry Drew.

As long as your entire BUMPER doesn't come off, then you are still miles ahead of me!!!

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  #19  
Old 01-08-2008, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
Not to worry Drew.

As long as your entire BUMPER doesn't come off, then you are still miles ahead of me!!!

Yeah, but if one of these suckers popped off it would really take off!

I still have the front tow hooks on the frame and those are faster to attach a strap onto anyhow. I think I will open the back up and burn it in there as well. I did bevel and run two seperate SLOW passes and got LOTS of heat.

Thanks for the imput guys. I might to do a bit more reading up on this.

Drew
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1976 FJ40 with some stuff and some leaks.

1999 UZJ 100 Series bone stock ready to rock AKA:The backup minivan

2012 Toyota Sienna Minivan, fastest Toyota in the stable.

My camping trailer build up thread.

"You 80 guys are just a Sawzall away from nirvana." -Red Chili
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  #20  
Old 01-08-2008, 06:26 PM
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This might be worth 3000 words...

pic one: beveling the metal tabs.

pic two: weld after first pass

pic three: weld after second pass.
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My rig... "Maude"
1976 FJ40 with some stuff and some leaks.

1999 UZJ 100 Series bone stock ready to rock AKA:The backup minivan

2012 Toyota Sienna Minivan, fastest Toyota in the stable.

My camping trailer build up thread.

"You 80 guys are just a Sawzall away from nirvana." -Red Chili
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