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Old 01-24-2008, 09:33 PM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Default My Build Up begins: First Project=Wiring. UGH

So, I'm beginning, FINALLY, to build my truck up into what I've always wanted it to be, and in the process, I'm going to redo all of the really terrible "i'm in high school and quality means nothing" wiring jobs I've done.

However, my first concern is to get a few actual problems ironed out first.

Bear with me, because, even though I'm committed to doing this right this time, I'm still a total nincompoop when it comes to this stuff.

My first issue is that when I'm driving, at night, headlights on, and I step on my brake pedal, all of my internal lights dim, and the engine starts to run rough. I've looked as much as i can at the brake light wire, and it does not appear to be shorting anywhere. In addition, the phenomenon only occurs at night, when I'm running the headlights.

Am I looking for a short somewhere else, or something different entirely?

Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2008, 09:36 PM
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I am not great with wiring either, but the first thought that came to mind is make sure your brake lights are well grounded.
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Old 01-24-2008, 09:54 PM
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Several potentials come to mind

first - check to make sure your ground connection from the frame to the battery is clean. I had to unbolt it once and clean it up with a die grinder on my 80.

Second - Not sure if your truck has a voltage regulator, if so check your wiring to make sure connections are clean and tight. Could be the regulator needs to be replaced, not sure on that.

Third - Could be the extra load is too much for the alt to keep up with. Lots of auto shops will test alternators for free. Might be worth a try.
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Old 01-24-2008, 10:16 PM
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thanks guys. I'll check into those things first.
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:05 PM
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Are you running stock headlights currently?
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheeseman View Post
Are you running stock headlights currently?
Chees is right, change your headlight wiring out and either rebuild your altenator with a higer ouput coil or replace it with a 160 amp altenator.

Next check to see what all is connected to your headlights and or brake lights. Extra lights or trailer wiring will do this too.

Good luck, I really HATE electrical stuff.
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer View Post

Second - Not sure if your truck has a voltage regulator, if so check your wiring to make sure connections are clean and tight. Could be the regulator needs to be replaced, not sure on that.
x2
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:16 AM
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I'm running stock headlamps.

Nothing run off of the brakelight circuit. Could certainly be battery and alternator connections.

I'm going to have to look pretty deeply into the FSM to see if I've got the voltage regulator, and if so, where it is.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:32 PM
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I believe it is internal to the alternator.
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:54 PM
leiniesred leiniesred is offline
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Tips:
Start a wiring diagram now. You'll need it in 3 years.

Go get the add-on fuse box that bolts to the battery cable on many 80's Toyotas. This way, you won't have 12 different wal-mart amp wiring kit terminals stacked up on your terminal bolts.

run a 10gauge wire to the radio area in the cab from that add-on fuse box. Connect it to a power distribution block so you can wire in the stereo, CB, HAM radio, and relays in one easy to get to place.

Plan ahead and pull wires for things you don't have yet, but plan on having someday. It is almost as easy pulling 5 wires as it is pulling 1.

In cab winch controls, ARB controls, driving light relays, rock light relays, rear power outlet, 120VAC inverter, Handheld HAM charger Stereo amplifiers, camping lights, neons, etc.




On the stumble with brakes on: On rigs our age, there is a fuel cut circuit that gets activated when the brake lights are on and the RPMs are above about 1500. When the engine revs drop below the 1500rpm or so, the computer is (supposed to) start firing injectors again. Is your idle really high? If so, then get it back down around 850. That is USUALLY the solution to the problem you are describing.

(The idea was "Why do you need to give the engine gas when you have the brakes on?" Just turn off the injectors until the engine NEEDS fuel to run."

I think the dimming headlights might be secondary to the engine not running.
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