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  #1  
Old 12-29-2005, 03:32 PM
motomike
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Default Help needed in Boulder

I'm trying to wrap up my birfield repack project but I can't seem to get the steering arm off to check the preload on the trunion bearings(all bearings and races were replaced so I figured I should check the preload since most likely the knuckle needs re-shimming). Everything has gone smoothly until now. I've destroyed 2 pullers trying to get the damn rod end loose. I've also tried using the fork type puller with no results either.

Have any of you experienced this? Does anyone have a better tool than the pullers found at Napa or McGuckins? Should I look at finding the SST the FSM recommends? To be honnest, I'm ready to break out the cutting wheel and get creative!.....this project is driving me insane!

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I'm desperate to get my rig running again before the next bad storm hits. Not to mention ski season is on hold until this job is done!

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 12-29-2005, 03:47 PM
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Are you trying to remove the Tie rod ends from the steering arm? a pickle fork will work but destroy the boots. I've had mediocre success with using a bearing puller. unless you replace the knuckles there usually isn't a need to reshim. I've always either reused the knuckle shims or used new shims with the same sizes..

Works for me but i'm a backyard (actually garage/driveway) monkey
If I could put vehicles in my backyard.. I'd definatly be a backyard Mech.

hth
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Last edited by wesintl; 12-29-2005 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 12-29-2005, 04:00 PM
motomike
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I've shreaded the boot so I can't turn back now. The bearings didn't look seated all the way in the races after torquing the arm down which is another reason I started trying to remove the arm and check the preload.
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Old 12-29-2005, 04:02 PM
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I'm assuming you changed the bearing and seated the race? A pickel fork is $10 from napa, checkers, etc.
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Old 12-29-2005, 04:22 PM
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Removing the tie rod end from the steering arm:
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Old 12-29-2005, 04:23 PM
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Checking knuckle bearing preload:
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Old 12-29-2005, 04:27 PM
motomike
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Yep. Seated the new races and put new bearings in. I've hammered the crap out of the joint using a pickle fork and the thing won't budge. I'm headed to Auto Zone for a 'C' style puller (fixed dimensions) to see if that will work. The adjustable ones from napa that I tried just keep slipping out and the screws keep bending.
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Old 12-29-2005, 04:31 PM
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they make pickleforks for a pnumatic air-hammer
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Old 12-29-2005, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motomike
Yep. Seated the new races and put new bearings in. I've hammered the crap out of the joint using a pickle fork and the thing won't budge. I'm headed to Auto Zone for a 'C' style puller (fixed dimensions) to see if that will work. The adjustable ones from napa that I tried just keep slipping out and the screws keep bending.
Have you tried heat yet? As an example, I once had a pitman arm that would NOT budge, even with a 7 ton puller and using an air impact to drive the puller. Whacking the pitman with BFH while cranking on puller wouldn't do it. Finally I got out the torch and the sucker popped off like it was loaded with explosive bolts.

Heat works on stuck stuff because of the way coefficients of expansion work. Basically, when heated, materials (that have positive temperature coefficients of expansion) expand on an inch per inch basis. The female thingie (in this case the steering arm hole) has more inches of metal than the male thingie (in this case the tie rod end). As a result, it expands more and creates a gap where they are mated. Does that make sense? Anyway try it, it might help.
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  #10  
Old 12-30-2005, 12:54 AM
motomike
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Default Success!!!!!!

Well, it turns out that Auto Zone had a puller almost identical to the one shown in the manual. And guess what? The two turns on the screw with it and the joint popped right out. Heat would have been a good option and probably kept me from running all over town.......another lesson learned the hard way.

The preload on the trunion bearings was off by quite a bit so that makes me feel a little better for going to all this trouble in the first place.

The bad new is, I mangled the boot on the tie rod end and toyota does not sell replacements. You have to buy a new tie rod($140). I made do with a napa replacement until the new one arrives next year. What a nightmare today has been!

Tomorrow I shall attempt the repack on the left side. I feel like a pro after all I've been through on the right side so hopefully the left will be a piece of cake.

Thanks for all your tips.

Happy New Year,

Mike
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