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  #11  
Old 01-29-2008, 12:28 PM
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I just stay on the bunny hills
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  #12  
Old 01-29-2008, 04:51 PM
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I have no sway bars on my runner. No need for them. On the 62, I leave the front on until I go off road. I would like to put my rear back on the 62 for the road. Just have to alter the bracket. But then I would just corner faster. Maybe leave the rear off then.

But remember this. With the sway bar off you may have an issue with the shocks bottoming out at either full compression or extension. This is not good for the valving as I understand it. So better check that.
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Last edited by Cheeseman; 04-01-2011 at 02:03 AM.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2008, 06:22 PM
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you should also take into account that leaf's rarely require a sway bar especially if your bushings are good.

coils? road driven? leave the rear on.
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2008, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green machine View Post
you should also take into account that leaf's rarely require a sway bar especially if your bushings are good.

coils? road driven? leave the rear on.
To add a fine point to John's leaf spring comment I would have to say that it depends on the springs and the conditions they are being used for. OMEs are stiffer than the average leaf spring and can control things quite satisfactorily without swaybars in most on road situations, as long as the driver is aware and takes the time to learn what to expect for hiway handling. Something like an Alcan or some other brand that is set up to be soft and flexy can really benefit from swaybars on the road. Stock Cruiser wagon springs were somewhere in the middle when new and got a bunch softer as they broke in/down. Scary without swaybars and much more predictable and safer with the factory built front and rear bars connected. Offroad? All bets are off but then everyone knows that already!

Last edited by Crash; 01-29-2008 at 07:26 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-29-2008, 07:21 PM
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Just curious if anybody has the drop brackets that Slee and probably others sell... Do they make much of a difference, and are they worth it? Per Nay's comment, I definitely do not want to break the bracket for the front sway bar and take out the hard line, however I would also prefer to run with the sway bars attached unless I'm wheeling. It kinda sounds like the best bet is at least removing the front sway bar altogether when wheelin'.
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  #16  
Old 01-29-2008, 07:31 PM
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I have the drop blocks on both front and rear. I had some scratches on my front shaft before I did that.
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  #17  
Old 01-29-2008, 11:29 PM
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Last edited by Cheeseman; 04-01-2011 at 02:03 AM.
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  #18  
Old 01-29-2008, 11:42 PM
InsanityIsBorn InsanityIsBorn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
Take yours off and find out! It seems like not much is gained on an 80 when the SW's are removed because the design of the front arms will bind and limit articulation anyway. Rear will allow more droop but if your loaded with weight (especially up high) the added droop will not be a greater benefit over increased sway! Don't "what if"....just "find out!"


I will say that on my FJ-62 the sway bars severly limited articulation and as a result I twisted the backets a couple times....I finally removed the rear one and just ran the front unless I was headed for something knarly then I took the front off too.

I leave them on on the 80 and really have not had any needs to take them off.


I straight up took them off of my FJ62(F and R), It really helps with articulattion, in fact it gave me another 4inches of play(yeah seriously). It also gave me a bit smoother of a ride(not sure why or if that is a norm) but on bumpy roads it is much smoother feeling. It also makes it more tippy yes, but I got used to it and know how fast to drive around corners(slowly cuz its a cruiser and won't go fast, and not all of us have supercharged cruisers...lol) It really is a personal thing though, try it out and see how it feels, see if you like it or if it makes enough difference for you to take them off or make quick disconnects(etc).

hope this helps.
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  #19  
Old 01-30-2008, 06:37 AM
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you can make your own for the rear with some 3/8's stock or c channel and a drill.
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  #20  
Old 01-30-2008, 07:04 AM
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And it won't simply bend? Or do you temper it somehow?
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